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2006 SV1000S 289 Actual Miles

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14K views 46 replies 1 participant last post by  EUROJulian  
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#1 ·
Short story; bike sold in 2008 and PO crashed before reaching 300 miles on the clock. Nothing serious, he drove bike back home, Cracked fairing, bent radiator and etc. Parked bike for a while, disassembled fairing, attempted some repairs but never actually rode again.
My story and this bike starts couple months ago. I have 1999 ZRX1100 that I started overhauling about that time. Trusted Kawa developed cold cylinder after I let it sit when I was contracting out of state and not riding. As I was taking it appart and ordering / receiving fuel system parts I realized it is going to take me a while before I will have bike where I want it. Wanted to ride bad and Started looking for quick project bike or even something new. This is how I stumbled on this slowsuki. Not that I was particulary looking for 2cyl after coming down from four but heck how often do you pass on brand new used bike? It is a liter bike it can't be that bad.
 
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#3 ·
Actually bike come home tank first. Gas tank cap was stuck and PO removed the tank in the effort to drain old fuel.
Brought the tank in week earlier, I alredy knew what to expect from old gas sitting for so long. I was unsuccessful at first removing gas cap, thought it will be as easy as removing Allen screws but nope.
Anyhow I was able to dig into the tank through the fuel pump side. No real surprise was found there:
 
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#5 · (Edited)
This got me head start on searching and ordering the parts. Of course fuel pump was frozen. Btw, to check without connecting to power (I am reluctant to do that on wet pump) is to stick a probe through suction port and trying to turn rotor. Yep it was frozen.
Based on parts inspection I needed fuel tank, fuel pump, pump connector, suction screen and fuel filter.
Fuel tank and filter become immediately a problem because of oem pricing and used parts poor quality....
TBC/CDN: Almost 1900 hrs, Florida cooled enough for a nice ride...
 
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#7 ·
FIRST START AFTER HALF DECADE

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Before ordering parts checking if we have motor. Remove sparkplugs, inject jet fuel into cylinders, let it sit and then turn engine by hand. Remove access hole cover on the left of the motor and stick deep socket in. Engine was spinning freely. Big relief ;-)
Next step jumper cables connected to a big battery and starter test, plugs still removed. Cranking a bit few times to lube well and remove rest of kerosene / nafta from cylinders.
Sparkplugs back in after inspection.

Problem: fuel tank and pump dead, how to start fuel injected motor. Solution that gets two birds with one stone: fuel injection cleaning aparatus, first ensure the motor runs and second deep cleaning of EFI downstream of fuel pump.
I use Toyota system for EFI cleaning. EFI cleaner can cost about 15 dollars at Toyota dealers. I used two to give system good cleaning and warm it up for oil change.
Aparatus connects straight forward to the bike fuel hose, can provides cleaning mixture under pressure. Pressure is regulated by the ball valve. Picture above shows whole setup connect.
Motor started right up which was wonderful and ran as usual on the EFI can, smoking and surging. Have video , I will add it once I learn how....
 
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#8 ·
SMALL STUFF

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Clutch lever had broken ball and it was aluminum finish (what idea is that to have aluminum unfinished levers beats me) I opted for some replacement levers for clutch and brake from Taiwan through ebay store. I couldn't stop myself from ordering supper cheesy gold oil cap at the same time.... mmm...shiney .
Well made stuff for the money or rather no-money. Shipped from Taiwan, arrived rather quickly w\o issues.
Installation was uneventful and stuff works well so far.
 
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#9 ·
SMALL JOBS

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As I was inspecting the bike I noted I am unable to clean instrument cluster from the outside. There was a residue inside cluster.
Removal and disassembly is straight forward. What I think was inside ? Apparently pit stop for crazy ants... Florida happens.
I used q tips and alcohol for cleaning. Clear plastic for polishing and silicone paste for gasket rejuvi.

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#10 ·
GAS CAP STUCK

Stuck gas cap was hindering my efforts and I was getting frustrated. Unbolting or soaking in pb blaster didn't help. Drum was turning freely therefore I knew it was not a concern. Stuck latch slider was, there was just not enough leverage to break the bond - key was being bend. I hoped blaster will some how get down to the latch but it didn't happen.
To brake bond b/w slider and housing hamering was needed. Just had to come up with idea how to get that hamering action through the fuel pump opening. I posted pictures of tool I made here and explain how to use it:
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349130&page=2

Important thing is to disassemble and clean the latch inside, once cap is opened. I was debating on lubricating it after cleaning and eventually used some molly-graphite but with constant presence of solvent this may be futile. Will review long therm and post results.


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#11 · (Edited)
RADIATOR JOB

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Radiator was holding pressure but out of shape. Thankfully there is abundance of choices for aftermarket these days. I was pounding getting aluminum welded one, but shipping from china was a wild card, i needed stuff resonably fast to be pipe tight. I was also contemplating -ovich radiator but feeling sporty I got one of the China ones , spent more to have it shipped from US location.
Arrived quickly, extremely well packed and including sv1000 specific neck, bracket and new cap. Didn't use any of it since original were fine.
Fit and finish was good. Hickup was lower mount location that was about 10 mm right. This required special washer fabrication and longer bolt. Overall I am happy with quality.

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#12 ·
FRONT FAIRING

When I got the bike I had standard/naked conversion in mind. Round headlight and brackets and go. As I thought about it issue surfaced with my standard ZRX, high speed wind buffeting.
I do not ride turnpike much on a bike, but when I did it was unpleasant at worp speed. For thus reason I decided to give suki faring a try.
I started fixing original fairing and headlights, dug out HID kit in the garage, real one with Lexus projectors and Philips D2 but after parts reshuffle it all went back to the big box. I wanted to ride asap, not mess with fabrication. One of future projects :)
Looked for resonable fairing assembly in right color. All found was beaten up. Then there was that one in red, all perfect, complete and intact. I pull the lever on that one:

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Arrived undamaged thanks to great packing job the seller did.

Installation was straight forward, I had to order few special SS bolts to attach to the frame.

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Overall I am happy with wind protection and I am planning on keeping fairing on the bike. Added bonus is two headlights that I am planning to upgrade to German H4 bulbs once my harness relay conversion arrives from Japan.
Still have to do something with 650 sticker on the fairing. Line through it or just tripple R after 650 :icon_biggrin:
 
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#13 ·
FUEL PUMP

My fuel pump assy was a mess. Looked around for replacement. Usual price tag shock at OEM parts house. Usual used junk on ebay and some well used and high priced pieces here at for sale forum.
Went with eBay kit. Well thought of with pieces truly needed for pump job. Even terminal tab was broken on my bike connector. I was so happy that one was included in the kit.

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Things to get from oem are orings and pump cushion. Look at the photo below, this is how much smaller cushion become after all those years submerged in fuel. Another reason for replacement is hardness and lack of flexibility.

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#14 ·
FUEL PUMP

Utilized crimp on terminals from a kit I have by removing insulation. Do not recommend crimping for this application.

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My soldering iron quit and I couldn't finished that evening. It was just not hot enough, got new one next day and soldering was a snap.

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Pounded in shrink tube pricing for a while, that stuff is expensive.
 
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#15 ·
FUEL PUMP

Cleaned up all components and started assembling. Note that jar of petroleum jelly. This is your assembly lube. Coat well all orings before sliding in.

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Pump all done and looking pretty. Note upper fuel level sensor is busted. I am not planning on replacing it for now. Looking for one though. I have to live with blinking light for low fuel level together with trip counter.

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#16 ·
FUEL FILTER

Big missing in my fuel pump posts above.
Rant on: I am not sure what is going on with those manufacturers and their in tank EFI filters. Cost? Liability? I do not know. Back in the day it was a part of regular big service to replace fuel filter. Filter used to cost 30 bucks or so for.a.car and all was peachy. So I am going to oem part house to order one and choking on a dinner again after seeing the price. Those people are plain stealers. Rant off.
My problem is not only buying one I fully expect to do 2 before tank is clean. In line fuel filter mod here I come: lots of info on vsrtom board, like everything but filter selection, I think I have better option

Bypass : 5.5 mm

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Toyota fuel filter; this is.quick connection filter. Unfortunately it is not US market filter and can't be bought in US Toyota dealer at least I was told that. Who cares, bought two on ebay for 8 bucks each. Shipped from Miami next day :

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#17 · (Edited)
FUEL FILTER STARTUP AND TESTING

Setup below was used for initial startup and mod testing. It utilise odditional OEM high pressure hose. Allows for quick change if needed. Bike ran fine, there was no need to change the filter due to fuel starvation.


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Anyway I treat this filter as startup only and it being replaced together with oem high pressure lines later.
I found straight high pressure quick connectors avalialiable at NAPA. 90 degree connectors are from oem hose dismantle
 
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#18 ·
FUEL FILTER

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All parts to make in line setup and route lines and filter properly inside engine compartment.

I am bit disappointed that oem pressure line have so little flexibility and I have to mess with making new hoses.
Rubber EFI grade fuel hose, hose clamps and straight quick connectors are from NAPA. OEM fuel line is a source for 90 degree connectors.
 
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#19 · (Edited)
PHASE TWO is IMMINENT

While phase one had a goal of making bike run /be drivable reasonably quick, test the new to me machine as well as initial modifications /fixes , phase two will address encountered problems.

This whole project started as ersatz, I was not looking for SV, not even v twin. Basic goals were to have something to ride while I am working on ZRX and have modern uber reliable fuel injected go around bike. I never rode SV before I got one, didn't even know if I will like it. Opportunity presented itself and I took it.

Initial riding impressions are rather positive. Engine is lawn mover like but performs so savage or rather uncivillzed behavior can be overlooked.
I have read a lot regarding suspension modificatios, I find it satisfactory for Florida flat and straight roads, brakes also performed well. Many complained about riding position and initially I was eyeballing fat bar conversion/ installation . I find riding position to be manageable, not planning to do work there.

For phase two, two known SV main reliability issues I am planning to address are fuel system and electrical.

Fuel filter bypass/ inline filter mod performed well. I need to finalize fuel line fabrication and attach filter in the engine compartment. DONE
I also was able to buy super clean/ like new inside fuel tank. Although I did good job cleaning my tank it will always be prone to corrosion. New tank will take care of that concern plus I am planing on using real gas exclusively on my bikes.
I will replace startup filter with new one while at it. DONE
I am toying with getting new gas cap I sse them pretty cheap.

SV Electrical shortcomings I am addressing with harness mod, Friday I found usps note that my package from Japan has arrived, hope to pick it up tomorrow. Package contains headlight relay combo and headlight on/off switch.
I will also add accessory outlet on the dash at the same time, maybe even two if I go wild as I am planning to get phone dock/ holder.
I am also planing on inspecting famous connector while diggin there. DONE
Once harness is done I am getting proper OSRAM H4s.

Maintenance items to do while bike is down include:
oil change (first phase of engine break-in at 500 miles is done, time for new oil and filter), DONE
clutch slave rebuild - leaking after initial fluid change, DONE
fork oil change with new seals
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350338
I want new fork tubes - if only could find smart Chinese person to talk to- see my tube thread)
 
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#20 · (Edited)
CLUTCH SLAVE SEAL

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Disassembly and cleaning. Remove and Lube pushrod. Note to hold piston from popping.

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Seal failure was not anticipated and I did not preorder the part. Got good service from Broward Motorsport of Davie. They had the seal in stock and parts guy went out of his way to get other stuff for me.

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Installation is straight forward, remember the direction seal goes. Remember not to drain master cylinder at any time. Note on pic how to stop line from leaking. Tip on bleeding drained master cylinders on clip-ons in my post here:
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59000&page=245
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My flush and bleed setup ;-)
 
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#21 · (Edited)
MOTOR FLUSH

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I first started the bike on original oil, using EFI can, just enough to warm it up and drain it. I left original filter in and re filled with Rotella T5. Rode like that for few tanks to pass 600 mile mark. Big day today, done with first phase break in, I can move past 6k RPM.

Time for Full oil change with T6 and OEM filter.
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No debris on magnet trap and brand new looking oil. All good sign.
Examined oil filters, look like mama-suzi wants filter wrench tight. Didn't have proper size socket wrench to tighten it so I just wrestled it in old fashion way. Jaw filter works great on removing old filter but doesn't for tightening. Started the bike and sensed that it likes T6.

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Took it for a spin, seems smoother on T6 and shifts better :) never used that stuff before....
EDITed after few rides: together with clutch seal job much smoother tranny and gear change.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
DELIVERY PIPE LEAK

Removed tank to fit fuel filter. Found old line problem:

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Replacement hose and clamps below radiator hose

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Must remove delivery pipe for hose removal. Impact screewdriver is a must tool for carb jobs. Do not wait till you bugger a screw, hit it at first sign of resistance....

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All done, recommend to replace injectors o ring and seat at the same time

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