ABS adhesive. You should be able to purchase at a warehouse store, just don't buy PVC cement. You can also weld plastic, but that's another technique to learn.

 

It is ABS - ABS pipe cement from your local hardware store (Lowes, HD, ACE, OSH etc) will do the job. It does not just 'glue' the parts togther, it will actually 'melt' the plastic and flow the pieces together into a homogeneous piece (more like a weld)
If you need to build up - or fill missing parts - you can get a piece of ABS (plumbing fitting of your choice or another old fairing piece) and create shavings to mix with the cement.

Alternatively you can plastic weld - EBay is full of kits, both direct heat irons and air flow devices.
You can achieve reasonable results even with a cheap soldering iron - especially on back side & non-visible areas (like fixing tabs)

 

You can achieve reasonable results even with a cheap soldering iron - especially on back side & non-visible areas (like fixing tabs)

To get even more ghetto, good results have been reported with soldering irons and zipties as "welding" material.
Can´t watch the vid at work, so I don´t know whether it covers exactly this.

I have been using a 2 component glue on my fairings for years (it´s sold as "UHU Endfest 300" in Germany) and it works very well for me. I always have a small pack in my "extended travel toolkit", too.

Ciao
Jan

 

Didn't know about ABS specific stuff. I'll have to check it out. Thanks for the tip!

 

 

Believe it or not, the first consideration when gluing any plastic components is to determine what type plastic it is. This can be done by referring to the recycling code usually found on the part inner surface. In the case of the fairings they are identified as ABS plastic.

D'Ecosse has already recommended what is probably the best cement to use for ABS.

You will read many recommendations for a variety of plastic glues on the net but they basically fall into two adhesion categories: mechanical or chemical.

Mechanical adhesion happens when the glue penetrates the minute pores and irregularities of the parts to be joined. Chemical adhesion comes about as result of both surfaces melding into a bond, similar to a weld.

Mechanical type glues (2 part epoxies being the most popular) rely on exact surface preparation for adhesion to occur. Chemical type plastic glues are solvent based for the specific type plastic and surface prep is not as critical. This is not to say that surface prep for a chemical plastic glue should be omitted, only that failures due to surface prep are rare.

Plastic welding (heat) is usually left to high volume repairs, but can be done by the DIYer so long as they are willing to invest in good equipment and practice. Once again, the results are directly related to using the correct materials.

One rule of thumb for a repair is that it needs to be at least twice as strong as the original condition. That can be taken to mean that, if taken to destruction, the glued joint should not be the point of failure.

Speaking for myself, I use the Oatey ABS cement. I have conducted informal tests with it and a few other epoxy cements on scrap pieces of ABS. The Oatey glued samples did not fail at the glue joint. Several of the epoxy samples parted at the joints. The worst of the bunch was an epoxy marketed specifically for "most" types plastic, with no further explanation.

Note: If buying Oatey, select the smallest size can available. No matter how tight I get the cap, evaporation of the solvent is noticeable after about a month or so.

 

Thanks for additional info oldndumb - I should credit you with the idea for using the ABS chips in the cement to create a 'filler'.

Jan Z - that is exactly what the video shows, soldering iron and cable-ties for the 'filler rods'

 

Go to a auto body paint store take a piece of fairing. Lords adhesive makes a good line of adhesive for all plastics. Not cheap but I have used it on several snowmobile hoods that take far more abuse than your bike. The stock plastic gave up before the repair. Also helps if you back up the damage with a small plastic backer plate of the same material. I am sure 3m also makes some stuff to repair it. Just buy the pro stuff and save yourself a lot of hassle

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Just to show what I need to repair. The other thing I'm unhappy with is how many of those little metal clips decided to take their leave from the fairing.



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Sure you could fix it but as many of the guys who change there s models to naked you might be able to find a good one cheap and already painted if your patent

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Aye, I've been looking over two weeks now. Can't find one in my color; they only started using it in 08 I believe?