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It is Stealth Grey (paint code B9) that is exclusive to Ford Focus RS models. I think it will contrast nicely with the silver frame. Originally I had wanted to repaint the frame black and do pearl white body work, but the tank leaking forced me into painting sooner than I had wanted and decided to not do frame to save time with the riding season starting.
 
Friday took it for an oil change. The day before it starting behaving funny - jerking from starts - and Friday it became much worse. Chain was failing, so while it was there I also had a new chain installed. Nice shiny gold DID or RK (don't remember which) chain.

I admit, I have been a little lax with maintenance - it's been a busy few months, and I put a lot of miles on with a daily round trip commute of 80ish miles - so part of the failure is mine...
 
It hit 60ish today, so I took it out for the first (real) ride of the season. About 80 miles on our best local twisty farm roads, and along the shoreline (M-22) for a bit. Froze my a** off, though. The sun went away and the light breeze coming off the water/ice was frigid.
 
Ready for the track with the weight savings by taking all of this off. Well, aside form needing to do the whole rebuild thing.



I also cut the chain off to replace it even though it looks like it is almost brand new.



Some tracks require chain guards
 
I swapped the complete wiring harness on my SV1000 on Sunday... not the most fun, around 4.5h total. Hopefully that fixes the gremlins I've been fighting for the past couple years.
 
Did a little open heart surgery today... About time for valve clearance. All still in spec at (almost) 30K miles. Actually even still on the tight side of the range :eek:ccasion14:

Thought about carb sync, but I don't really "feel" a need to do it. Darn laziness.

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Did a little open heart surgery today... About time for valve clearance. All still in spec at (almost) 30K miles. Actually even still on the tight side of the range :eek:ccasion14:
You do realize that the valve clearances tend to tighten up with use...yes? The valve face and seat erode so they'll get tighter and tighter while the actual cam lobe and tappet face are so hard, and the oils so good, that they pretty much won't wear. For longest service interval setting the clearances to mid-wide is often a better idea.:)
 
You do realize that the valve clearances tend to tighten up with use...yes? The valve face and seat erode so they'll get tighter and tighter while the actual cam lobe and tappet face are so hard, and the oils so good, that they pretty much won't wear. For longest service interval setting the clearances to mid-wide is often a better idea.:)
However, if they're in spec and not right on the edge, I'd rather not touch them.
 
However, if they're in spec and not right on the edge, I'd rather not touch them.
Right.:) There is no NEED to touch them, but most will find the engine idles better and pulls stronger down low and in the midrange with the clearances set to the wider side of spec. Going from tight to loose changes the overlap about 4 degrees...which is enough you can feel it.
 
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