Just thought this would be a cool new topic. If there is already one in existence please let me know so I can delete this one, or a mod can do it. As for me I finished my under tail project and rode the crap out of it.
Not at almost twice the price and then have to pay for shipping. She has a harbor freight down the road so she could pick it up.this might be better for bench work.
==> http://www.jpcycles.com/productgrou...oup.aspx?GID=392B34AF-176E-49E6-AB84-C8763CE791B9&search=stand&store=All&page=2
Have had a 350 small block and a couple of honda motors on one of these, i can vouch for the rigidity and quality
You and me both after what I plan to tackle this weekend. :nana:Ah...I forsee many lessons learned this month. But I should be able to add "shade tree motorcycle mechanic" to my resume.;D
Ouch....that does look bad. I'm still amazed that you didn't hear anything when it stopped or just before.Sexy, if the head gasket blows it will allow coolant/oil/chocolate shake into the cylinder. There is no way to blow it and have it only be between the water jacket. Also, the compression test will tell you if you have a blown head gasket and since your bike runs you should definitely do that first.
As I'm sure Brad told you, we are confident that mine was a result of something going wrong in the water pump because I have milkshake in my water pump hose but not in my radiator hose on the thermostat side which means it was sucking it in the top and blowing it out the bottom into the crankcase. My valves were a seperate issue.
Those kinks on either side are normal..just the way its supposed to be.Ahh....I thought that to, and although I don't actually have any others to compare with...the metal sleeve on the inside is actually "kinked" on both sides. Almost like it was meant to sit in there only one way. I assumed that it was normal. I think DougZ or Daviid would be the best to let me know if theirs looked the same. Visibly I didn't see any tears, cracks, or anything else while I was in there.
I reassmbled the water pump, and should be removing the engine tonight...although...I'm wondering now if it's going to be easier to remove the gas tank and work on the engine in the bike? I don't have a engine stand....so breaking bolts loose and retorquing them on assembly may be sort of strange without some way of holding the engine still.???
Ah...I forsee many lessons learned this month. But I should be able to add "shade tree motorcycle mechanic" to my resume.;D
That doesn't sound fun. Sorry.
Hi JPL_SV, When you said wrecked it I was thinking you totaled it.
Thinking the worst its possible there is a crack somewhere.Does anyone know of any place else on the bike that oil and water could mix? The water pump seals looked fine. I didn't get any oil into the water pump. I now know that it did get into the combusion chamber because of the residue buildup, but the head gaskets look great.
I would feel pretty stupid if I totaled the bike at 5mph. lol.Hi JPL_SV, When you said wrecked it I was thinking you totaled it.
Could have been worst.
I didn't think a crack would leak that much. Makes me have bad thoughts about the home team on this one.Everything I've read talks about the head gasket and mating surface check followed up by making sure everything has been retorqued down to proper specs.
Then a compression leak down test to see if there was a crack in the block wall. Did you see anything like this when you took your head off??
Pressure check, watch your feet!
==> http://www.ehow.com/video_2326964_cracked-cylinder-diagnosis-pressurize-cylinder.html
Head removed
==> http://www.ehow.com/video_2327003_cracked-cylinder-diagnosis-finding-cracks.html
The last thing talked about was damage to the oil cooler but I can't see anyplace on the micro fiche where it intersects with the coolant area.
==> http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm.../YearID/46/Year/2005/ModelID/6188/Model/SV650S/GroupID/250818/Group/OIL_COOLER#