Just thought this would be a cool new topic. If there is already one in existence please let me know so I can delete this one, or a mod can do it. As for me I finished my under tail project and rode the crap out of it.
What did you do to your SV today? (mods, farkles, maintenance, etc)
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On1wheel01
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Pondered doing a TB sync on my K9 by removing the feed hoses from the ISC module into the TB. Especially since I have only now, after 6 years of ownership, realized that there are air feed screws for the idle air circuit.
Also checked the STV position sensor and found a resistance reading from 1.56 to 5.6 (or something like that) looks like i may be adjusting it when I have more time off work.
Also checked the STV position sensor and found a resistance reading from 1.56 to 5.6 (or something like that) looks like i may be adjusting it when I have more time off work.
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Set the STV position sensor to open sooner. Btw, the K7+ sensor reads 1.08 - 5.05 k-Ohm across the black and yellow circuit. Setting the closed value as close as posible to the 1.12 k-Ohm recommend in the book for the main TPS yealded 5.08 while fully open. Which happens to be what the open (reference?) circuit value is when testing the black and red wires. The bike starts and idles fine so I'll call it a win. For reference, the original values were 1.62 - 5.58 k-Ohm and the valves are positioned at 2.13 k-Ohm after the startup sequence.
Next, I mechanically checked the synch of my main throttle butterflies. Oh man were they off! No wonder I've had such bad engine vibes. So I mechanically synced them and will fiddle with the air screws next to try and even it out as much as I can without being able to lock the ISC valve.
I found out that you can't just disconnect the output tubes and tape over half of the hose opening. That experiment failed to the tune of a 2.5k rpm idle speed. So clearly there is a lot of restriction going through the ISC.
EDIT: I think I cracked it. I pulled a page from the FJR book and reset the air screws. I screwed them all the way in, marked the position with a sharpie, and screwed them both 1.5 turns out. Next, I balanced the throttle plates with the engine at speed, ~3.5k in this case. Finally, using the air screw on the rear throttle body only, I set the balance at idle. Twisting the rear screw had opposing effects between the TBs. The reading at the back would go down while the front came up, and vice versa.
The results were reduced vibration at idle as observed in the mirrors and hand grips. Also, cruising anywhere from 3-5k RPM was buttery smooth with noticeable vibes starting at just over 5k.
I'll be redoing everything to get the sweet spot from 4.5-6k if I can. Then my normal highway use should be nice and smooth.
Next, I mechanically checked the synch of my main throttle butterflies. Oh man were they off! No wonder I've had such bad engine vibes. So I mechanically synced them and will fiddle with the air screws next to try and even it out as much as I can without being able to lock the ISC valve.
I found out that you can't just disconnect the output tubes and tape over half of the hose opening. That experiment failed to the tune of a 2.5k rpm idle speed. So clearly there is a lot of restriction going through the ISC.
EDIT: I think I cracked it. I pulled a page from the FJR book and reset the air screws. I screwed them all the way in, marked the position with a sharpie, and screwed them both 1.5 turns out. Next, I balanced the throttle plates with the engine at speed, ~3.5k in this case. Finally, using the air screw on the rear throttle body only, I set the balance at idle. Twisting the rear screw had opposing effects between the TBs. The reading at the back would go down while the front came up, and vice versa.
The results were reduced vibration at idle as observed in the mirrors and hand grips. Also, cruising anywhere from 3-5k RPM was buttery smooth with noticeable vibes starting at just over 5k.
I'll be redoing everything to get the sweet spot from 4.5-6k if I can. Then my normal highway use should be nice and smooth.
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7,186 Posts
Easy part; change Oil&filter. Hard part: figure out why it wouldn't start when I was done.
Positive terminal on the battery loosened just enough for it to break contact when you hit the button, and then remain totally dead. .. f'ker really pissed me off for a few minutes.
Positive terminal on the battery loosened just enough for it to break contact when you hit the button, and then remain totally dead. .. f'ker really pissed me off for a few minutes.
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2,511 Posts
When from this:
![Image]()
To this:
![Image]()
Just for info, there is a ton of info to take your bike from S to N, but very little info to go from N to S, specifically with the throttle cables. I ran into an issue with the S throttle cables having a shorter "free" length compared to the N throttle cables. This meant that the S throttle cables were holding my butterflies open a bit, so idle was at 3000 rpms. I ended up whittling down the S throttle cam to get the butterflies all the way closed, and my push cable is not connected.
Also, they made a change in the right hand switches plug from '04 to '05, from a 8 pin connector to a 10 pin connector, to enable the headlight to remain on during start up (I think I got that right).
To this:
Just for info, there is a ton of info to take your bike from S to N, but very little info to go from N to S, specifically with the throttle cables. I ran into an issue with the S throttle cables having a shorter "free" length compared to the N throttle cables. This meant that the S throttle cables were holding my butterflies open a bit, so idle was at 3000 rpms. I ended up whittling down the S throttle cam to get the butterflies all the way closed, and my push cable is not connected.
Also, they made a change in the right hand switches plug from '04 to '05, from a 8 pin connector to a 10 pin connector, to enable the headlight to remain on during start up (I think I got that right).
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Is there a write up for that? I want to shorten the stock can and need to rebaffle while I'm at it...I hacked 6.5" off my Leo Vince and ordered some Chinese shorty levers. I'm all about making parts shorter apparently...
![Image]()
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Prepped it for Road America this week.
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LOL! Yea, who was that guy. ;D
Also, I did my own version of the TRE without buying any resistors....
I broke the tiny resistors (yellow dots) for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd and then jumped them all to the 5th gear contact.
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2,656 Posts
Perfect, Thanks!!
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