Note that those cheek bags are really right over the cheeks - not along the jaw... I never used them. Tried them, felt like I was going to chew off the insides of my cheeks, left them alone...

Hope it fits well, I used mine for 3 years without any major issues. I have a used dark smoke shield I could send you, but it's got some use on it (micro-scratches on the inside).

 

Thanks I really appreciate the offer!
It has the flip down visor built in, so
hopefully that works out well enough.

I was kind of thinking that would be
the case with the cheek bags. If I
don't use them, even better...

I'm replacing my Gmax 68S. I bought
it because I thought it would have
great airflow. In reality I think they
just put more wind drag on the helmet.

5 huge top vents, that really didn't do
much!

 

Today (yesterday actually), I did the turn signal brightening mod, a la XJ99 using metal tape, and stuck some factory clear turn signal lenses with chrome/orange bulbs:

 

Huge improvement!


Shutter speed cranked up high to
show right vs. left.

SFV comes stock with clear, but the
reflectors make a big difference! :thumbsup:

 

Nice!

 

Took pictures and getting ready to sell her. But apparently i need more posts before i can post it on here.

 

Getting ready to sell mine, too, sadly. Hope to find her a good home!

 

Heard from insurance on settlement, so finalized the details of getting her home from the shop. She will be available for viewing/fixing and finally selling her later this week.

 

So about this time next year we will see a thread "Finding Dory" :evil6:

 

What's next for you, then, r0ckrat?

 

Looking at an '07 wee-strom at the moment, and setting aside some money for a future BMW purchase. In love with the R1200RT...

 

Would have loved a new VStrom, but they
are just too tall for me..

 

I got to test ride on last year, they are really comfortable.

 

Hmm, looks like the clamps I ordered for a bar swap are WAY too big.

But I bagged a set of stock clamps for a '14 striple on eBay to make up for it.

 

Funny I just bought those outlaw risers about half hour ago. Didn't even consider the size on the triple. They'll still work tho...

 

Yeah, they'll work, but I just didn't like how much overhang they'll have.

I'm still working out the parts for the underside now. The Striple clamps use a 10mm bolt and it's derailed my attempts at sourcing an appropriately sized aluminum spacer to weld on underneath.

 

Watched it get unloaded from a flatbed, and pushed it inside the yard for a few repairs and then sale...

 

I used the “Vincenzo method” to get rid of the excessive brake lever travel that has been bugging me since I rebuilt my front calipers in early 2016.

After carefully rebuilding my calipers (using Suzuki OEM seals) and installing Galfer steel lines, my “new and improved” brakes didn’t engage until the lever much closer to the bar than before. The brakes worked normally once they bit…no sponginess whatsoever. Still, I bled and re-bled the brakes. I even installed a GSX-R600 master cylinder. No luck. So, I adjusted the lever all the way out so I wouldn’t pinch my fingers and lived with it.

I’ve got extra free time these days, so I decided to revisit the problem. I found Vincenzo’s suggestion and tried it. It completely fixed the problem!

To be completely honest, I did the work a couple days ago and have ridden almost 400 miles since. My brakes are still “right there”. Check it out: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159444&page=2

Thanks Vincenzo, wherever you are!

 

From post #12 by "stingray" in that link -

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthr...=159444&page=2

"The cause is the redesign of the seals, and them not being fully compatible with the older system. What happens is that they flex with the piston as you apply the brakes and then when you let go they unflex and pull the piston back too far.

The Vincenzo method is to take a piece of wood a little thinner than your disc and activate the brake lever so the pads are closer together than the disc thickness, then reassemble that side and force the caliper onto the disc, this way the seals un-flex to the neutral position as you let go of the lever. Then do the other side. This will last about 3 months and you'll have to eventually do it a couple of more times. Once the new seals start getting worn out the problem goes away, but it takes a long time. Totally ridiculous of Suzuki to let this slip thru the cracks, I would have been better off never changing the seals.

Vincenzo is a member of the old mailing list for SV riders which is now on Google groups at sv-dl-riders@googlegroups.com. Lots of old, tenured members with Gen 1 experience there, new members welcome. Vincenzo had the same problem at the same time I did, and fixed it this way, so I named it after him."

 

From post #12 by "stingray" in that link -

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthr...=159444&page=2

"The cause is the redesign of the seals, and them not being fully compatible with the older system. What happens is that they flex with the piston as you apply the brakes and then when you let go they unflex and pull the piston back too far.

Thanks Jay! Do aftermarket seals have the same issue?

 

Interesting, I never knew that about the brakes. I guess that means that swapping the brake master still isn't going to solve the excessive lever travel. It just gets around it by putting more fluid through the system faster. I've got ~25k on mine now and it still has a flaccid brake lever.

 

There is a red brake assembly grease that will cure the problem too. Lube up the pistons and the seals will not stick for a while which then lets you push them out into good contact with the pads against the rotors. In a short amount of time, the lube will be squeezed out between the seals and pistons and they'll then stick which will start making them retract as designed. By the time the pads wear enough to cause a low lever (or pedal) it's probably time to clean and relube them anyhow which will restore their function.

 

Today I installed the $110 sv650s front fairing I bought off ebay, and it was actually an easier process than I thought I would be. Honestly the hardest part was getting those !@# little rubber grommets out of the original fairing, everything else was pretty straightforward.

I'm a little sad that the yellow is more rattle-can 2005 yellow than the 2004 I am used to, but I'll get used to it...

 

Today I installed my dual-fitting handbrake as well as a stunt cage I had waiting to be installed since I don't have a garage and have to wait for the nice weather to be able to work on her

 

Today I installed my dual-fitting handbrake as well as a stunt cage I had waiting to be installed since I don't have a garage and have to wait for the nice weather to be able to work on her

You do know that the SV is not a particularly good stunt platform, as extended wheelies tend to fry the front cyl from oil starvation, right?

Just checking.

 

What about short power wheelies in first?
Hit the power band right, sometimes 2nd.
I'm talking about 3-4 seconds every once
in a while....

 

A power wheelie that doesn't go over maybe 6" high is fine...it's the 12:00 balance versions that cause the oil pump starvation. Remember also that the oil will slosh to the rear and flood the crap out of the rear jug if it gets too vertical so you end up with no oil pressure to the motor while the rear piston is trying to move while submerged...not good at all.

 

Maybe it's knock-over protection for being parked outside? :dontknow:

 

Alright, good to know.. I never have ridden
balanced wheelies, too afraid to flip!

 

Haha! I'm too afraid I'll flip before the front even comes up!