Oh, you mean the flask?

 

Nice! ccasion14:

 

installed a new clutch cable.

 

Well crud. I get to try and figure out what I might have disturbed putting the clutch cable in last night in the dark this weekend. Bike cranked well, but no fire this morning... Waahhh! I really wanted to ride this morning... It's been two weeks!

 

Put Bikemaster Daytona bars on. Holy crap, I should have done this years ago.

 

They are pretty good, aren't they? Especially for the price.

The slight increase in rise and a better pull-back angle make them feel better than stock.

I put them on back in '06 when I bought the SV.

 

Spent the past few days thinking about how to easily fit bars to my S. That is, how best to modify an S upper triple to maintain durability. I think I might just get aluminum spacers, pack JB weld around them, then drill through the centers and triple itself. I'd rather the spacers be welded in, but fab shops are rare in my part of georgia.

 

What's the difference between the Daytona and Superbike bars? Ive seen the SBKs recommended for the S bar swap.

 

In BikeMaster brand, the Superbike is lower than the Daytona. The Daytona is the tallest bar that would fit on my '06n with the stock brake lines.

There are other brands that call certain models "Superbike Bars" as well.

 

So with stock wiring, SBK is probably the tallest l can use. My HEL brake lines have always been a little too long.

 

Removed the front fairing off of my S model last weekend, installed a dirtbike headlight and added a vapor.

Broke down twice last night. Ran out of the gas the first time and a buddy brought me some gas. Not even 5 miles down the road I lost my ability to shift up. Pulled over and noticed the lower left rear set bolt was missing which allowed the whole rear set to pivot off of the upper bolt preventing me from shifting up. Roadside fix worked like a charm!

Fun times! Carry zip ties and a few tools everyone, you'll be thankful when something happens!

 

I had both the Superbike and Daytona on mine. The Daytona is quite a bit higher and more backwards sweep. I kept the Daytona, but had to replace both gas and clutch lines - I have the S model and could get by with stock lines up to that point but it was just too high with the Daytona. Now that everything is setup correctly, the handlebar is great.

 

Had the oil changed.

 

Installed a HealTech gear indicator with ATRE!

 

Rode down to Corbin factory in Hollister and had a custom seat made.

 

3 hours, 3 test rides and 315 bucks later.. with the stock seat in the top box I went riding 150 miles straight. And my rear end feels great!

You may notice the seat is quite high, I had them make it about an inch higher than stock (normally theirs are about an inch lower than stock) due to my height for additional leg room. Works out great.

I have to get used to the looks though. it looks more like a cruiser seat, but hey it feels so good I'm not going back. Stock seat anyone?

 

 

Added som ScotchLite 3M to the helmet...

 

That's some fine work!

I turned over 7k on the bike today. Keeping up
with my 1,000 per month. I'm probably going to
slow down until deer season passes. No more
night rides...

 

rsv4 tail with custom subframe
rsv mille swingarm
red anodyzed gsxr frontend with streetfighter headlight

 

THIS!

Took off "old" gas tank while cleaning "new" (IE rusted) gas tank,

Swapped the plugs

Oil and filter change

Flushed the radiator and replaced fluid

Started de-rusting the original tank with Metal Rescue (Autozone 20$, not bad)

Will sync the carbs before I'm done.





Pics:


Petcock seemed clean but it is definitely leaking... grrr. Time to experiment with a manual shut off.

View of petcock innards.

Rear Spark Plugs, new and old (can you tell which is which?... :naughty: )

Rear Spark Plug (up close)

Front Spark Plugs, new and old.

Front Spark Plug (up close)

Capping off the rear carb vacuum port that (used) to activate the petcock. Switching to manual it won't be needed.

Metal Rescue Stuff... We'll see how it turns out

"New" Tank (the original tank thats rusted) (view of lid/rim)

"New" tank full of metal rescue. Lots of rust in the top half and on the drain line.

My backup for rust removal, electrolysis. Maybe I won't need it after all...

Old coolant coming out.

 

Just wrapping up post-season mods:

Cam swap
"Downgraded" the 2007 electronics to 2003 (ecu, tb's, harness, cluster)
Fairly minimal Race harness (Thanks to Swiest and BrianC for the diagrams!)
Remounted shock reservoir
STV fully eliminated
MotionPro quick throttle
TWF clutch cable (impressive change from just a cable)
Contemplating chopping my subframe up.

Depending on how the winter goes, I may bore out a set of 42mm TB's

 

Installed a dual 2.1 amp USB charging port
closer to the triple tree.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=363977

 

Set the bike back to stock height and added tank risers! Swapping out the linkage was actually really easy! Glad I did it.

Also went to buell lowered pegs but might go back depending on how I like them long term.

Set up to lift rear of bike:

Dogbone difference

Bike back to stock height

Fast remove hardware and 3/4" tank risers

Buell pegs

 

Nothing special, just put her on the stands for winter storage.

She looks so sad.

 

Friday I popped the battery out, sprayed light oil all over it, and buttoned it up for storage.

Flurries started next evening. Soon it looked like this.

 

Wished I were in Georgia riding it. Had to settle for dealing with the music stopping corrosion on the plug of one of my car speakers.