Just thought this would be a cool new topic. If there is already one in existence please let me know so I can delete this one, or a mod can do it. As for me I finished my under tail project and rode the crap out of it.
On1wheel01
Set the STV position sensor to open sooner. Btw, the K7+ sensor reads 1.08 - 5.05 k-Ohm across the black and yellow circuit. Setting the closed value as close as posible to the 1.12 k-Ohm recommend in the book for the main TPS yealded 5.08 while fully open. Which happens to be what the open (reference?) circuit value is when testing the black and red wires. The bike starts and idles fine so I'll call it a win. For reference, the original values were 1.62 - 5.58 k-Ohm and the valves are positioned at 2.13 k-Ohm after the startup sequence.
Next, I mechanically checked the synch of my main throttle butterflies. Oh man were they off! No wonder I've had such bad engine vibes. So I mechanically synced them and will fiddle with the air screws next to try and even it out as much as I can without being able to lock the ISC valve.
I found out that you can't just disconnect the output tubes and tape over half of the hose opening. That experiment failed to the tune of a 2.5k rpm idle speed. So clearly there is a lot of restriction going through the ISC.
EDIT: I think I cracked it. I pulled a page from the FJR book and reset the air screws. I screwed them all the way in, marked the position with a sharpie, and screwed them both 1.5 turns out. Next, I balanced the throttle plates with the engine at speed, ~3.5k in this case. Finally, using the air screw on the rear throttle body only, I set the balance at idle. Twisting the rear screw had opposing effects between the TBs. The reading at the back would go down while the front came up, and vice versa.
The results were reduced vibration at idle as observed in the mirrors and hand grips. Also, cruising anywhere from 3-5k RPM was buttery smooth with noticeable vibes starting at just over 5k.
I'll be redoing everything to get the sweet spot from 4.5-6k if I can. Then my normal highway use should be nice and smooth.
Next, I mechanically checked the synch of my main throttle butterflies. Oh man were they off! No wonder I've had such bad engine vibes. So I mechanically synced them and will fiddle with the air screws next to try and even it out as much as I can without being able to lock the ISC valve.
I found out that you can't just disconnect the output tubes and tape over half of the hose opening. That experiment failed to the tune of a 2.5k rpm idle speed. So clearly there is a lot of restriction going through the ISC.
EDIT: I think I cracked it. I pulled a page from the FJR book and reset the air screws. I screwed them all the way in, marked the position with a sharpie, and screwed them both 1.5 turns out. Next, I balanced the throttle plates with the engine at speed, ~3.5k in this case. Finally, using the air screw on the rear throttle body only, I set the balance at idle. Twisting the rear screw had opposing effects between the TBs. The reading at the back would go down while the front came up, and vice versa.
The results were reduced vibration at idle as observed in the mirrors and hand grips. Also, cruising anywhere from 3-5k RPM was buttery smooth with noticeable vibes starting at just over 5k.
I'll be redoing everything to get the sweet spot from 4.5-6k if I can. Then my normal highway use should be nice and smooth.
Easy part; change Oil&filter. Hard part: figure out why it wouldn't start when I was done.
Positive terminal on the battery loosened just enough for it to break contact when you hit the button, and then remain totally dead. .. f'ker really pissed me off for a few minutes.
Positive terminal on the battery loosened just enough for it to break contact when you hit the button, and then remain totally dead. .. f'ker really pissed me off for a few minutes.
When from this:
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To this:
![Image]()
Just for info, there is a ton of info to take your bike from S to N, but very little info to go from N to S, specifically with the throttle cables. I ran into an issue with the S throttle cables having a shorter "free" length compared to the N throttle cables. This meant that the S throttle cables were holding my butterflies open a bit, so idle was at 3000 rpms. I ended up whittling down the S throttle cam to get the butterflies all the way closed, and my push cable is not connected.
Also, they made a change in the right hand switches plug from '04 to '05, from a 8 pin connector to a 10 pin connector, to enable the headlight to remain on during start up (I think I got that right).
To this:
Just for info, there is a ton of info to take your bike from S to N, but very little info to go from N to S, specifically with the throttle cables. I ran into an issue with the S throttle cables having a shorter "free" length compared to the N throttle cables. This meant that the S throttle cables were holding my butterflies open a bit, so idle was at 3000 rpms. I ended up whittling down the S throttle cam to get the butterflies all the way closed, and my push cable is not connected.
Also, they made a change in the right hand switches plug from '04 to '05, from a 8 pin connector to a 10 pin connector, to enable the headlight to remain on during start up (I think I got that right).
Just installed a Yoshimura stainless/carbon fiber tip slip on......Bike sounds awesome now! It's just enough...
I painted my radiator side guards, steering dampener, shifter rod, and my oil cooler guard... And I made a radiator guard, too! Cost me $2.50 :vroom:
Painting clutch cover, water pump cover, stator cover and sprocket cover gloss black tomorrow, and my passenger footpeg hangers orange in addition to my rearsets (minus the actual pegs)
![Image]()
Painting clutch cover, water pump cover, stator cover and sprocket cover gloss black tomorrow, and my passenger footpeg hangers orange in addition to my rearsets (minus the actual pegs)
Finished my gsxr front end swap! woo hoo! well, mostly finished. I couldn't wait until monday for the clamps for the headlight and gauge cluster so I zip tied them on and went out for a shakedown ride 
complete '08 gsxr1000 front, also fresh rubber front and back, and plasti-dipped the rear wheel to match the new black front.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
(before)
![Image]()
complete '08 gsxr1000 front, also fresh rubber front and back, and plasti-dipped the rear wheel to match the new black front.
(before)
Looked at it with the front end apart. Trying to get this done before the end of next weekend.
![Image]()
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