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Valve Clearance shim selection

5.1K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  sath182  
#1 ·
Hi,

been reading this forum since I got my 2000 sv650 about half a year ago. I am very grateful for all the value information I've found here.

So I decided to check my valve clearances: (left and right is as sitting on the bike)

rear
EX right=0.112 EX left=0.105
IN right=0.130 IN left=0.152

front
EX right=0.152 EX left=0.150
IN right=0.130 IN left=0.115


so all my intake valves are in spec, but all of my exhaust valves are out of spec. seems kind of strange to me, but I guess because the exhaust valves get hotter??

Anyways, I dug farther in to check the shim sizes. boy that tensioner was tricky, for anyone that does it, on the front cylinder, having a long L shaped 5mm allens wrench with the ball-ish end was the only way I was able to get in there.

shim sizes
rear: ex right:165 ex left:165
front: ex right:162 ex left: 160

so using the shim selection table (and rounding), the shim sizes should be:
shim sizes should be changed to:
rear: ex right:155 ex left:155
front: ex right:155 ex left: 155

but I was thinking, wouldnt it be better to use a 150 shim on the fronts because that will put it at:
EX right=0.272 EX left=0.250
towards the end of the spec, since apparently the gap shrinks it would give more time till the next adjustment is needed. Or?

Thanks for any advice, also, I am praying that I went mess up the timing when I put this all back together, so tips on that would be appreciated too.

Eric
 
#4 ·
I always shoot for the middle of the spec.

Make sure to MEASURE your old and new shims, don't just go by the # printed on them.

Putting it all back together is not too difficult, follow the manual and there are a ton of threads on here documenting the procedure.
 
#7 ·
The hot setup when doing valve adjustments is to have the complete shim kit on hand. Yes...it's a bit expensive initially, but you're set forever more. And your friends. And your friends, friends. Plus it saves you time waiting for shims or driving to get them.

Remember to double check the clearances after you've done your shim changes as it doesn't always work out the way you've planned. Good on you for doing your own work!:)
 
#8 ·
Well I bought me a fancy digital caliper at harbor freight and all the shims were exactly as the numbers indicated... well maybe one was 164 instead of 165

I needed the calipers anyways so no biggie, but I'm pretty sure the margin of error from my feeler guage readings is waaay bigger than what a squashed shim could cause, thinking its not really worth it to measure the shims if you dont have a micrometer on hand.

So... I guess I'll get four 150 shims, should I also get two 155 shims in case my feeler gauge readings were off?

and how about this timing chain tensioner installation tool? is it easy enough to make one out of junk I have laying around? or should I just spend the $20?
 
#9 ·
I can't comment on the CCTs as I haven't done anything with them but take them off. Most of my valves were around .13 in /.23 ex and using 178 /168 shims respectively. I bought the hotcams refill for 150-175 and will knock them down to the next size shim. Should get em all in the middle.

Here's the refill kit I bought. Only down side is it was $10 shipping :eek:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GTSA7U[/ame]
 
#11 · (Edited)
I have a spreadsheet I use for it, I could probably upload it to google docs if you were interested in a copy. Makes it easy to track valve clearances and adjustments and shim sizes.
Doh... looks like it was on another computer that I don't have anymore...I'll see if I can track down another copy.