A good strong twist and pull should do the trick. It doesn't matter which way you twist; the grip should just be on the bare metal bar. If that doesn't work you might be able to get a little solvent in there. I use golf club grip solvent, but that's just what I have handy.

 

The bar end and the screw both turn when I try to turn the screw. I sprayed WD-40 on it and will let it sit for a bit.

 

Mine did the same thing when it fell off the stand, I think I ended up having to use a 3/8 impact to spin it hard enough to get it loose. The one that was actually bent I could'nt turn at all so I just ripped it out using my own sheer power and determination lol.

 

It doesn't matter if the bar end turns with the bolt. The bolt goes through a rubber bushing, through a washer and into the compression nut. As you turn the screw counterclockwise the nut should back off releasing the compression on the rubber bushing. Then the whole assembly slides out.

What can happen is that the nut can freeze on the bolt so no amount of turning will loosen it. In that case just patiently rock it back and forth while pulling out. Give it a shot.

 

Thanks for the help, that got it. The bolt is REALLY frozen on there I'm not sure I can get lose.

 

Bar end, bar end! I completely missed that. I though you were talking about the grip.

I'm such an idget.

Lefty-loosey is correct. I'm with the others above actually know how to read.

 

So do I need to wrap the clutch side with electrical tape with the stock handle bars?

 

I would wrap the bar, I did and it helps balance the heat out. The throttle side will still warm up faster, but the tape helps the clutch get just as warm.

 

i had exactly the same problem, and eventually had to use 'brute force and ignorance' (i.e., a pipe wrench to spin the assembly and a flat screwdriver to wedge it out as it spun). the bolt passes thru (in order) the bar end, a washer, the rubber expander, and finally a cone-shaped end nut. once i got the assembly out, i discovered that the problem was that the cone-nut was binding on the screw because of poor design - the screw is not threaded full length, and you can tighten the screw at high force far enough that the cone-nut binds onto the unthreaded portion of the screw. you're then 'screwed' - the rubber expander binds OUTwards onto the bar, and less so INwards onto the cone, so the screw and cone rotate together. it's not really possible to lengthen the threading (which is rolled, not cut), but you can prevent future binding by doubling up with an extra, appropriately sized washer to keep the cone away from the end of the unthreaded portion of the screw.
good luck,
cheers,

 

Yes wrapping the clutch side helps insulate it, even with steel bars.

 

You could drill the head of the bolt off then replace the bolt after you remove the assembly. Good luck.