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Ignition key blanks for SV!

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14K views 25 replies 16 participants last post by  Userdenied  
#1 ·
I've seen a few threads over the years about where to get blank ignition keys for SVs. Well, I was looking around on Amazon, and guess what I found?? Key blanks for SVs!! $9.45 and free shipping for three, not bad! You could make enough copies to take care of almost any key losing person.


I hope this helps someone out there.
 
#2 ·
Everybody knows you can buy cheap Chinese blanks on fleabay and the like....The difficulty is getting quality blanks, I.e. an oem key. The metallurgy is far superior. The cheap keys will bend or break the first time you go open the gas tank.

I've tried both and can definitively state the genuine Suzuki key is much stronger. The locksmith even commented on how much longer it took to cut. Don't waste your money on three throw away keys, you're better off with one good one.
 
#3 ·
I had to get one cut when I bought my bike. $16 from the dealer, but it is a nice key. I've heard that the aftermarket ones tend to fall apart after a while (plastic breaks, Suzuki emblem falls off, metal fractures, etc.). It might just be a few people experiencing these problems though. People are always more vocal when something goes wrong.

Just a bit of info I found a while back: when you unlock the gas cap, push down on the front of the cap before you turn the key. There's a spring at the front of the lid that pushes up on the lid, and compressing that spring takes some of the load off of the key when you turn it. I think there's a video on YouTube by Roadcraft Nottingham that explains it. You probably already knew that little trick, but it makes it easier to open the lid and reduces the chance of breaking your key.
 
#6 ·
Perhaps not the case for the 1g, I don't know if it's the same key on a 2g which is where my experience lies. Did your dealer sell you a genuine Suzuki key, I.e did it come in a sealed, part numbered bag? The generic ilco key it's what I tried first, and the metal it's much much softer. U can easily bend it with my fingers. Not so with the oem key.
 
#5 ·
The 2000 SV650S I bought recently came with a single key, black plastic handle, SUZUKI stamped, presumably original. There's a local locksmith who makes copies for $5 and he used an Ilco X241/SUZ18 blank, made a fine copy.

The new key opened the tank and turned the ignition, but would not open the underseat lock. The ignition and tank are wafer locks and are actuated by the bumps ground into the key edge.

It turns out the underseat lock is not actuated by the key edge. On the original Suzuki key in the center groove near the tip on each side, there is a nick in the top of the groove that effectively makes the groove a bit wider. Looks like somebody slipped with a drill. So I filed the top side of the center groove on each side of the copy until it approximated the dimple in the original.

Works like a charm.
 
#12 ·
I've seen a few threads over the years about where to get blank ignition keys for SVs. Well, I was looking around on Amazon, and guess what I found?? Key blanks for SVs!! $9.45 and free shipping for three, not bad! You could make enough copies to take care of almost any key losing person.

Here's the link.

I hope this helps someone out there.
I got a cheap blank off e-bay for $0.09 shipped from China more just because I could. It's very flimsy and would most likely break easily.
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
I have both original keys that came with the bike, bought new, and I dont see any wider part of the center groove for the seat lock. Is this different for 2nd gen? (Needless to say, both keys work fine.)

Also, the plastic piece slides off for those who want a flat key.
 
#20 ·
in addition to pressing down the top of the gas cap to reduce the strain on the key, after you have the gas cap open, use some WD-40 or locksmith lube to lubricate the locking mechanism and the barrel inside it (theres a hole you can spray into) i do this once or twice a year and have not had issues with keys bending in the gas cap ever since.

I also push the lock in and out with my finger (leave key inside lock and dont touch it) and work the lube in and back out again until it works nice and freely, then i dont have a problem for a day or two and it slowly goes back to working like ****, but this will help you stop from damaging your key in the gas cap.
 
#21 ·
Sigh... You aren't supposed to use WD-40 in locks. You are supposed to use graphite based (or silicone based designed for locks) lubes only. The WD-40 is a penetration lubricant that mostly dries, but attracts gunk. A graphite lubricant will not gunk up the lock cyl.
 
#22 ·
Sigh... You aren't supposed to use WD-40 in locks. You are supposed to use graphite based (or silicone based designed for locks) lubes only. The WD-40 is a penetration lubricant that mostly dries, but attracts gunk. A graphite lubricant will not gunk up the lock cyl.
Yes you are.




It keeps locksmiths in business. (I've had one tell me so!) :icon_biggrin: