[Thou]

Righty, my bike's together, everything is torqued up correctly - I'm finding it's weaving side to side at slow speeds. I've done the following:

1. Ensured correct pressure is in the tyres
2. Loosened off the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and bounced the bike up and down with the brakes applied
3. The bearings are new, brand new...both top and lower. The triples are torqued to factory spec
4. Front tyre wear is even, no squaring off

Here's my thoughts:

fork(s) are bent. They do look poker straight to look at and the seals are fine, no leakage whatsoever.

Discs are bunk, can't tell if they're straight tbh. Watch this video I filmed, can someone else check if they have the said steering wheel style side to side freeplay:

The R6 Calipers aren't aligned properly. As there's no locating dowels - I'm assuming the bolts themselves act as a centering method? If not, is there a trick to this as the standard GSXR calipers also don't have locating dowels.

Maybe the bearings aren't seated properly? I placed them, torqued the top nuts down as per the manual with the correct tool, also ran side to side about 10 times to seat them properly them backed off the top nut a quarter turn as per the guide. Looking at the bottom triple, it sits VERY slightly off completely flush of the headstock, which makes sense or it'd rub.

Any thoughts?

 

[Junkie]

Standard GSXR forks have dowels, or at least the set I got recently did.

I forget, what forks? What triples? What shock?

 

[tovar]

05 and up gsxr1k and 06and up gsxr 600/750 have dowels.
03/04 gsxr1k and 04/05 gsxr600/750 don't have them.

 

[ShaggyZ]

Which top triple are you using? Could be the ignition isn't clearing the head. If it sticks, you'll tilt a little, push to countersteer to recover, then repeat. Don't ask me how I know.

Definitely ensure you're testing back and forth of the triples without a triple tree stand. Whether it may be the bearings or the clearance of the ignition, that's the easiest way to eliminate those as possibilities.

 

[Thou]

Ignition is far forward of the steering head so we're all good there. Bearings are brand new and the lower bearing was definitely driven 'home' as the sound went dull all round when tapping it down.

Forks: K4 1000
Calipers: r6 monoblocs (these cams with dowels but you have to remove them)
Lower Triples: K4 1000
Top yoke: Custom job by http://topyokes.uk
Shock: Standard SV1000 at the moment. In exceptional condition as the bike's only got 8k on the clock

I'm going to loosen everything south of the top clamp bolts and give the bike a good push down on the top yoke a few times, this seems to be the accepted method to line everything up.

Failing that, I want to get the forks serviced anyway so I could just plump up a bit more cash and roll the bike into a garage I know. But I'll wait to see what you guys say.

If the forks were bent, would this be a symptom? same with the triple/stem - although it all looks poker straight tbh.

 

[Junkie]

The most likely bend in triple clamps is a twist between the two sides. If you remove the forks, try taking a very flat object, putting it across the bottom of the triples, and seeing if it rocks at all.

 

[Thou]

So one twisting up, one twisting down kind of situation?

 

[Junkie]

Something like that, yes.


Unrelated: does anyone have dimensions for 01-05 600/750 rear wheel? I'm trying to make a set of Carrozzerias fit my SV1000 and it's a PITA to pull the wheel off at home...

 

[bQQm]

bQQm, where are you based?

I'm based in Sydney, Australia.

 

[Junkie]

Can anyone tell me caliper bolt lengths for R6 calipers on 7mm spacers? I know they're M10x1.25 but don't have the length handy. I could measure the length of the caliper + spacer easily enough but I don't know how far into the fork they go.

 

[EUROJulian]

EUROJulian, I don't think there's an LSL top clamp with the ignition in the right place. You won't have a steering lock at all. Not sure if that matters to you. ....s.

It was few months since we last talked. I am slowly collecting all the parts needed for swap while I am finishing resto build on my other bike. We parted out discussing china top clamps and lost functionality of steering lock with the swap.

While selecting clamp I had this idea I want to bring under your collective peer check. I selected clamp that is symmetrical with intention of flipping it up side down to be able to mount ignition switch on the right side.
Here are pictures of clamp I got:

This is a bottom up view:

Some minor tweaking would be needed, but in general what do you guys think?

:naughty:

 

[Thou]

I say you're gonna have to drill the ignition holes again, as you can see when it's flipped over - they're there already. You might find you simply don't have the room to drill more as the holes will likely go right through the thing. Not all that bad if you intend on using some nuts to secure the ignition bolts. Also, there's a recess for the ignition to sit in by the looks of it, bit hard to tell with it being black, though.

I think you're not gonna be able to use it properly.

 

[Thou]

The alternative is to relocate the ignition to the right hand side of the frame, assuming your bike is an semi naked/naked then you can do that. Still no steering lock, though.

 

[EUROJulian]

I say you're gonna have to drill the ignition holes again, as you can see when it's flipped over - they're there already. You might find you simply don't have the room to drill more as the holes will likely go right through the thing. Not all that bad if you intend on using some nuts to secure the ignition bolts. Also, there's a recess for the ignition to sit in by the looks of it, bit hard to tell with it being black, though.

I think you're not gonna be able to use it properly.

Ignition hole fix is simple, drill through the plate and continue with tread all the way through. Portions of the treads that are visible on the top can be plugged or used for proper phone/gps mount.
I do not have ignition switch assembly handy, I do not want to take bike down yet, so I can not mock it up for definitive proof of concept.
BTW Another thing to alter is head hole, also relatively simple fix.

 

[Thou]

Cool, reckon you should be good to go with the modifications in that case!

 

[Junkie]

My impression is that it's too far over - when I had an 07 750 clamp I couldn't get it to lock at full lock right.

Does anyone know what the right size clamps are for holding headlights on 06-09 600/750? I imagine I'll have to measure but was hoping someone already had.

 

[Thou]

If it's not 50mm then it's 47mm, right? I thought it was tell tale if the forks had a step inwards towards the top, like my GSXR1000 forks do. They're 47mm at the top and 50mm about an eight of the way down, all the way down.

 

[Junkie]

I'll have to measure as I'm not sure what the dimension is, was hoping someone knew for sure. It might even be tapered, I'll have to measure.

 

[Thou]

Am I right in thinking the Sv1000 triple clamp offsets are as follows:

N model: 25mm
S model: 30mm

With putting the K4 GSXR front end on (which has a 32mm offset) I've gained ~7mm (as mine is a naked). With the K4 GSXR forks being about 8mm shorter (I think?) then that'd equate to faster turn in, right?

I honestly can't even remember what the bike was like with the stock front end on anymore haha. What are peoples thoughts and real life experience, as I really better off adding a steering damper? I can't say the front end feels overly twitchy...

 

[Thou]

What's the actual fork length of the SV1000? I'm going to have my GSXR forks sent off for revalving by Maxton...they can lengthen the forks so I'd like to match stock ride height.