Where are you guys setting the forks in the triples? Flush in the top yoke or allowing a certain amount to poke through? If so, how much?

 

EUROJulian, I don't think there's an LSL top clamp with the ignition in the right place. You won't have a steering lock at all. Not sure if that matters to you.

Thou, I'll most likely do a custom bracket from the triple to the gauge. I also have a flyscreen, so it'll mostly be hidden. Add to that the mill I have and I can probably make an adequate bracket.

Having the ignition offset to the right will let me pull the gauge in closer vs where it is now (I currently have 05/06 GSXR1000 top clamp). I'm not sure quite how far out it'll have to be, I'll see when I get there.

this is an older pic but shows my current gauge location

an even older pic but shows the front end from a different angle

I'll be doing a lot of work on the front end soon: I just got my 06 600 forks back from Zoran with his valving, to match a Penske triple, and I'll replace the lower triple clamp due to a broken steering stop, and a Motion Pro Rev2 kit, and new bars (stock Monster 796 fatbars), and the top clamp.

I have a set of LSL clamps and headlight mounts that someone made that I bought a while ago that I'll put on while I'm in there.

I expect to have to make some more custom parts, but that's part of making improvements.

 

EUROJulian, I don't think there's an LSL top clamp with the ignition in the right place. You won't have a steering lock at all. Not sure if that matters to you. ....s.

It was few months since we last talked. I am slowly collecting all the parts needed for swap while I am finishing resto build on my other bike. We parted out discussing china top clamps and lost functionality of steering lock with the swap.

While selecting clamp I had this idea I want to bring under your collective peer check. I selected clamp that is symmetrical with intention of flipping it up side down to be able to mount ignition switch on the right side.
Here are pictures of clamp I got:

This is a bottom up view:

Some minor tweaking would be needed, but in general what do you guys think?

:naughty:

 

Cool, how did you mount the gauge in the pics above? I'm hoping to just drill two brackets I have but might do the headlight thing...or whatever you did.

Also, are they the R1 or R6 calipers? I'm contemplating them as my Tokico's are a mess. I have a 16mm master cylinder from an F4i so I imagine the R6 calipers will be the better choice

Look forward to hearing from you

 

Here's pics of the clamp by the way

 

R1 vs R6 calipers are the same AFAIK, I forget what they're off of. I found I couldn't get rid of some squish with an R6 master, I run an older GSXR radial master. I need to pick up an RCS sometime.

My current gauge mounting is off the ignition mount. It's basically independent of the headlight mount (although it does lightly push on the flyscreen, which is mounted to the headlight mounts).

 

Ok cool. never thought about the ignition mount. Did you just fab up two brackets and then bolt to the existing gauge mount (I'm assuming the bike has always been naked)

 

Oh and I think your signature would suggest R6 forks! haha

One more question. Are you running the forks flush with the top yoke or sinking them through a bit? I've set mine at about 5-7mm through the top yoke

 

Calipers rather. Doh.

 

I suppose I could change my signature to specify just R6 calipers, I haven't updated it in a while.

Bike is a 2006 so it's a factory S (we only got SV1000N in US in 2003), my recollection is that everything holding anything up front is custom but it was a few years ago.

If you look at my picture you'll see fork height, the top of the fork bodies themselves (not caps) is about flush with the top clamp. You appear to have GSXR1000 forks which I believe are a little shorter than the 06-09 600/750 that I'm using. I'm tall so I like all the ride height I can get as long as I don't compromise handling (and these can usually do with a little more swingarm angle, which is done by increasing ride height front and rear).


Could you take a couple measurements for me? Offset of centerline of handlebars vs steering stem, and height of centerline of bars over top clamp. I'm trying to figure out how to mount my Scotts damper.

 

Yeah no problem, I'll do that tomorrow for you

 

Am I right in thinking that due to the 108mm spacing between the caliper bolts, I can put k7/k8 calipers onto my k3/k4 forks?

Thanks in advance

 

Yes, basically all Japanese 4pot bikes use the same caliper mounts. That's how I run the Yamaha calipers.

The distance out is different I think. There's info on what's needed in the first post - if you want to avoid machining the calipers it says you'll need 320mm rotors. While I haven't confirmed that, D'Ecosse knows what he's doing.

 

Yeah, thought as much. I have my original wheel which has the 310mm disc, same as the later Gixxers. I'd need the calipers and longer mounting bolts. Good to know! I am tempted by the R6 calipers as well though as they're apparently better and look a bit tricker....

Oh I obviously didn't manage to get those measurements for you. Still need them?

 

Hello, so I'm wanting to swap the front end out on my 04 sv650 and was wondering if there was wondering if there was a list or if someone could provide one of the recommended parts to get from which year and size gsxr. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

The whole beginning of this thread has what you need. Having said that, the easiest path is to get the entire front end from a 2004 or 2005 GSXR600 or 750. It bolts right up except for the speed sensor. It'll serve you well to read the first post several times.

 

And lord knows, we're all in so many enduro situations!

 

Enduro != endurance

 

Haha

 

Figured a few things out but still am trying to identify what I have. The right brake rotor is warped. Thickness varies almost 2 thousandths in spots. These were cheap Chinese eBay rotors from a previous owner.
Still can't identify the front end though. I don't want to invest in new rotors without knowing what I have. I did pull some the following measurements just in case anyone might have an idea.

Fork centers- 214mm

Fork diameter top clamp - 50mm
Fork diameter lower clamp -54mm then tapers to 50mm at bottom

Distance between disks inside to inside(offset rotors from hub but not sure of offset measurements) 127mm

Disk diameter 310mm (seem like they should be 320mm since the pads are riding close to the top edge)

I was tarting to think maybe it was a TL1000r front end with the wrong wheel/rotor combo but the axle design on the forks I have is different using a through bolt design with pinch bolts on the right fork only. TL has pinch bolts on both.

 

214mm means it's old (or busa maybe?), which I don't really know anything about. I'd probably have to poke around on ebay or something and make a guess based on that.

You can't really measure runout on a floating rotor, because it floats, but if thickness varies that much it's done.

If they're 310s they're most likely OEM SV1000, I haven't seen aftermarket rotors for them.

 

Looks like 90's gsxr forks.

 

Hey all

Anyone know what torque setting I should be using for the steering head nut? Wondering if it should be GSXR1000 (k4) or the SV1000 (also K4) setting. Same for the pinch bolts for the gsxr triples. Can't seem to find them

Thanks

 

I'm assuming you mean the hex nut on top of the triple clamp. I'd run GSXR value, although I doubt it's particularly important.

I believe both pinch bolts are M8 so I'd expect the same torque value.

 

Yeah I would go with the GSXR specs... The weird castle nut is impossible to torque correctly without the correct tool.

 

I've got the tool, a measly £20. Would rather do it right.

I have the following values for the GSXR:

Steering stem nut: 45 N·m (lower nut)
Steering stem lock-nut: 80 N·m (top nut)
Steering stem head nut: 90 N·m (nut on top of the triple)

All sound about right?

 

This is the most helpful/thorough post re: front ends. Many thanks!

I've got 04/05 600 forks/calipers and a 2012 750 front wheel and rotors. Looks like I'll need 5mm spacers and longer caliper bolts as well. Correct?

 

The 2012 wheel won't work unless you do something special with the axle and wheel spacer. I don't recall for sure, but the rotors may need to be spaced further out, too. GSXR1000 wheel from like 2010 on, I think, or 08/09 600/750 wheel is what you need if going for the curved spoke. Look for wheels with "AOL" not "AON"

 

Hmm.. I'll make a note of that. This 2012 rim, rotor, and new/mounted tire is only like $200 local pickup. But if ends up costing a lot more in spacers and my sketchy labor, maybe I should pass.

 

My understanding is that tapered roller bearings require different torque value vs the ball bearings that come stock, but I've always done it by feel instead.

I don't like mixing and matching bearing components, so I'd strongly recommend replacing at least the lower bearing (both the frame side and the triple clamp side).

 

I've got new all balls bearings top and bottom ccasion14:

Wouldn't ever mix and match or use something old with something new. It's got to be right for me as, at the end of the day, it cost me my life if I f*ck it up.

 

I found this within an All Balls fitting PDF:

Reassemble the steering assembly.
a) Insert the steering stem back into the frame.
b) Place the upper bearing and seal onto the stem. Thread the spanner nut back
onto the stem. Torque spanner nut to factory recommended levels.
c) Place the top triple clamp and washer back into place thread the top nut back on
and torque to factory recommended levels.
d) Turn the assembly left and right to check for binding.