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GSXR Fork Information / Permutations

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528K views 1.1K replies 197 participants last post by  Bremsen  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is a summary of the different models of USD Radial forks used on the various Suzuki models.
Hopefully, this will concentrate all the dimensional information on the most popular SV/GSXR fork conversion possible configurations.

Let's start with the matrices for the dimensions of the various fork models:

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Acknowledgments to Sam over at TL zone for initiating the primary chart creation and to all those who provided the data for it.

This excellent illustration courtesy of jeff721 will help indicate to what the measurements in the chart refer:

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Of course, there are the non-radial USDs used on the 01-03 750 and 01-02 1000 but the Radial versions seem to be the most popular, so that is the focus of this post.

So - looking at the primary area of interest for GSXR Radial Forks:

2003/04 1000
Gold/black inner tubes; gold calipers
300mm rotors.
850 springs
32mm offset; 54mm lower clamp
Right offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2005/06 1000
Bronze/black inners; black calipers
310mm rotors
950 springs
30mm offset, 54mm lower clamp
Center ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2004/05 600/750 (same)
gold/chrome legs, gold calipers
300mm rotors
850 springs
30mm offset, 54mm lower clamp
Right offset ignition top clamp, 25mm bore

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2006+ 600
gold/ chrome leg, black calipers
310mm rotors
900 springs
30mm offset, 53mm lower clamp
Left offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2006+ 750
black/ bronze leg
310mm rotors
1000 springs
30mm offset, 53mm lower clamp
Left offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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Calipers:

03/04 1000 and 04/05 600/750 (fit 300mm rotors std)

* The 03 1000 calipers are 4 pads per caliper - look the same as the two-pad variant
No interchangeable re pads however

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All other GSXR models

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Yamaha Monoblock (R6)

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Caliper/Rotor Matrix:

Calipers can be utilized from all the models above, by using spacers* per this matrix.
* Note that although for some sizes it says N/A, this means the combo would be too tall;
however, you could actually machine the caliper (or fork leg stanchion) as opposed to a spacer

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Triple Clamps:

You can mix & match a bit here:
The ideal top clamp I believe would be the 04/05 600/750 clamp
This has ignition offset to the right (same as SV and more conducive to the Vee shape of the front of the speedo for naked)
It has a 30mm offset and a 25mm bore.
Direct fit on 04/05 l600/750 lower triple clamp/forks
To fit on 06+ 600/750 forks/lower triple, bore stem hole to 28mm
To fit on 05/06 1000 bottom triple, bore stem to 28mm

If you have no access to machining, then the 05-06 1000 top clamp will fit directly on the 06+ 600/750 steering stem. This clamp has ignition 'straight ahead. The steering lock WILL lock, albeit with the wheel straight ahead, as opposed to the conventional full left position.

06+ 600/750 top clamps obviously 'fit' their own forks/bottom triple, however, the ignition is offset to the left; it requires some machining of the ignition module to avoid interference with the frame on the left side and the steering lock will not function without drilling frame. This makes it a less ideal choice.

Bottom clamp:
03/04 1000 has 32mm offset, 54mm bottom fork dia, and 25mm stem
05/06 1000 has 30mm offset 54mm bottom fork dia and 28mm stem
04/05 600/750 has 30mm offset, 54mm bottom fork dia, and 25mm stem
06+ 600/750 has a 30mm offset, 53mm bottom fork dia, and 28mm stem

Note that 06+600/750 forks are 53mm at the bottom clamp diameter - the others above are 54mm; so consider that as you wish to mix/match bottom triples & forks.

Axles:

The wheels are comparable fitment for all 01+ GSXR;
However, the axles change with the fork generations;

For the first group of forks per the caliper table above (03-04 1000 or 04-05 600/750)
uses an axle & collar nut (same as SV1K actually)
Note that there is no additional wheel/axle spacer required.

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For the second group of forks (05+ 1000 or 06+ 600/750)
the axle has a threaded bolt, rather than a collar nut, with a separate spacer that goes between the wheel & right fork leg.

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Steering Bearings:

All GSXR forks in the range above have 30/55/17 top & bottom bearings.
All Gen 2 SV650 and SV1K are the same sizes also
Gen 1 SV650 is the same bottom bearing but requires a special top bearing from TWF Racing.

Wheels:

All GSXR wheels after SRAD will fit any GSXR forks described above
The rotors change sizes (and fitment) however

Image

Mix n Match Capability for Wheels/Rotors:

01-04 1000 and 01-05 600/750 and SV1K all are the same wheel dimensionally;
Will take 300mm rotors from 03-04 1000, 04-05 600/750;
Will take 310mm rotors from SV1K;
Will take 320mm rotors from any 96-03 600/750 or 01-02 1000 or TL, or Hayabusa

05-08 1000 and 06-07 600/750 take 310mm rotors only, from these years of the wheel only.

09+ 1000 and 08+ 600/750 take 310mm rotors only - note that these rotors are NOT compatible with the group immediately above & vice versa.
 
#867 ·
I begin tonight sourcing and purchasing my front end. After reading 87 pages, I have just one question. There is talk of caliper spacers throughout the thread, but I am unsure where these are placed. If anyone could send or post a picture, that would be quite helpful. Additionally, if I use an 06-07 750 front end do I understand correctly that I can use my SV1000S 310 mm rotors with the 07 radial calipers with no spacers?
 
#868 ·
Haven't looked at this thread in a long time - 87 pages!

The spacers are intended to allow calipers to be used on rotors that are bigger than intended. They would go between the caliper and the fork mount for the caliper; so, 1 spacer for each of two caliper mounting bolts on each fork leg.

K6/K7 GSXR fork used a 310mm rotor so you should be able to use your SV1000's 310mm rotor without spacers.
 
#869 ·
Ok so i am thinking of doing a swap my wishlist until now is:

GSXR 750 K7 front forks(because black frame needs black forks);
GSXR 750 K7 calipers;
GSXR 750 K7 bottom triple;
GSXR 750 K7 front wheel;
GSXR 750 K7 rotors;
GSXR 750 K7 axel;
GSXR 750 K7 front brake master cylinder;
GSXR 750 K5 top triple to bore to 28 mm;
SV racing Clip-ons.


I was wondering will all of these fit my K8 SV650S without drilling the frame for the 28 mm stem of the bottom triple?

Also do i need anything else like a steering damper, clutch, brake leavers and sleeves(wanted to put the SV leavers and sleeves ones)?

Oh and if the GSXR 750 K7 stuff i said are the same size as the GSXR K8+, from what i can tell the K8+ forks have a different top from the older ones, do they have a different stem bore or need more fabricating to fit the SV? or anything else like are they compatible with the K5 top triple if i bore them to 28mm? I have googled them and they seem to be near the same price range and i though newer is better right?

And if you have any advice on how to tackel this while sober?

Good day sirs and ladies!
 
#870 ·
Just curious - how heavy are you with gear? Also, you realize that you'll lose the steering locks unless you mod the bike and the ignition module won't fit without modding the upper triple, right? Then you have to bore the upper triple, too.

Any reason not to consider an 04-05 gxsr fork that gets around all of this?
 
#872 ·
I'm about 80 kg (176 pounds) with gear, and i know that i need to bore the top triple so it would fit, i was wondering if there is a need to bore the frame also.
Shouldn't the steering lock remain the same if i use a K5 top triple?
The reason because i chose the K7 is because it's black and i found one with most parts at about 700 $
 
#873 ·
Sorry, I didn't notice you're using a K5 top triple. You'll have to bore that out but it should work.

The reason I asked about your weight and your choice of forks is because the stock forks will come with a 1.00kg spring, unless the PO changed it. This is a pretty heavy spring for someone of your weight and you'll have trouble tuning the forks. Fortunately, Sonic Springs sells a 0.85kg spring and that will work for you so plan on a spring change.
 
#874 ·
Buying a 2003 SV to build into a track bike for my son. The bike is in poor condition right now so it will essentially be a full rebuild to get it track ready. Trying to decide which path to go with in regards to the front forks. Right now the options are:

1) OEM forks currently on it that have possibly never been opened. Rebuild with new springs, fluid, and emulators.
2) OEM forks currently on it that have possibly never been opened. Rebuild with cartidges (brand/model TBD).
3) 2002 GSXR750 forks that I already have that are also probably all original w/ same model upper/lower triples . Rebuild with new springs, fluid, and valving.
4) Some other forks, like the 04/05 600 I have on mine.

If going with GSXR forks, ignition placemement will not matter as I will be doing a keyless ignition mod.

No matter the chosen path, the bike will need new steering bearings, so they will be chosen accordingly. Pros for 1 or 2 is I will already have the wheel for it. I do have the wheel for the '02 750 forks, but it is so badly warped it is unusable.
 
#878 ·
Hello guys,

I just had my first season with SV1000s K4 and I've decided to make a GSX-r fork upgrade.

I've read decent number of pages about gsx-r fork swap but some of the things are still not clear to me, because more I read, more confused I get.

So, I've got opportunity to get 04/05 gsx-r 750 front end with top and bottom triple clamp + callipers from same bike.

Here are the things which are clear to me:
- I can reuse front wheel and brake disc
- I can reuse axle
- Igniton is on same side as on SV so I don't need any modification about this

Here are the things which are NOT clear to me:
- Will SV clip-on fit GSX-r 750 K4 fork? Is top diameter of fork's the same?
- Can I reuse SV stabilizer or do I need to get one from GSX-r 750 model?
- Do I need spacers for calipers to fit SV brake disc? gsxr are 300mm and SV is 310mm.
- Do I need any other modification of front end to make this swap?


Is there something I've missed? I would be grateful is somebody could remind me :)


cheers
 
#883 ·
Hello all, hope you're well

I've got a K8 GSXR1000 front end lined up to put on my SV1000 (K4).

Am I right in thinking everything is bolt in, including the SV front wheel? I realise I need the front wheel spindle and lock nut from the GSXR.

Mine's an N model so I'll need to fettle about, getting the bars to fit and the clocks.

Let me know

Thanks

John
 
#887 ·
all balls conversion site will tell you if bearings are available. The other thing to think about is stem length. I can measure my GSXR stem for you this weekend :)

Otherwise it's just thinking how to bolt up headlight/indicators and so on. I just bought some clamps from ebay for 50-54mm forks
 
#889 ·
I am having trouble identifying which front end I have looking at the OP pics. I bought the bike with the front end swap done already and the original owner told me they are '95 GSXR 750 with TL1000 6 pot brakes. The brakes were easy to identify but I have no clue about the forks. When I asked "are you sure they are '95" and I got "I think" so..

Reason this is important to me is I am having a slight issue with the rotors being very slightly warped.Enough to feel a pulse when braking from high speed which was very concerning at the track especially when it was my first run. I believe they are the wrong size. The edge of the pad is almost dead even with the edge of the rotor which I know is not supposed to be like that. Could someone help me please? Here is a pic from the side showing the fork and brake setup. I want to be sure of the correct setup before I spend the fortune for good rotors. Thank you.

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#890 ·
I'd recommend cleaning the rotors and re-seating the pads first. Bike rotors rarely warp, they usually fall victim to uneven pad deposition.
 
#891 ·
All of that was just done when I put new pads in and bedded them in. I did the basic low speed stuff but apparently at higher speed and heavier braking is when I could feel that. My mechanic put a dial indicator on both sides and they were both slightly off. I believe by about 7 thousands if I remember correctly. He also stated the pads are not supposed to ride at the edge of the rotor. The paint from the cheaper organic pads that were on it was getting shaved off and curling/clogging behind the pads causing the pads to move in the calipers.
 
#892 ·
You can't reasonably measure runout on floating rotors, because they can easily be pushed back and forth.

I think the closest you can do is measure thickness at a bunch of points around it.
 
#895 ·
I suspect the Chinese billet top triples will do the trick, but I doubt you'll find any options that let you use the steering lock.

Since the 2007 GSXR1000 has 28mm offset, none of the top clamps from other GSXRs will fit.

I ordered a top clamp from TopYokes.com for my 07 750 forks/triple, with handlebar mounts, and with the ignition on the right. Total cost was $205 shipped, anodized. I don't have it yet, so I can't say much about quality. He's also putting some threaded holes on the bottom of it, to mount my gauges to. It sounds like you're staying with the S fairing, so that doesn't matter for you.

If you tell him what lower triple, what forks, and what bike it's going on, he should be able to make you a top triple that'll work. Yes, it's significantly more money than a China clamp.

I think another option would be to take an 04/05 600/750 top clamp and enlarge/offset the steering stem hole, but I don't know how much meat there is and the offset makes things interesting (going from 30mm offset to 28mm offset = 2mm travel, going from 25mm bore to 28mm bore = 1.5mm increase in radius, so you wouldn't have a fully round hole unless you used some sort of insert).
 
#897 ·
Don't be surprised if these take 4+ weeks to turn up, also, the mounting points for the gauges won't be far forwards enough to mount them with the ignition in place. You'll have to use at least 55mm brackets, so it won't look perfect if that's your thing (that's definitely my thing so I'm working on a solution!) The alternative is to drill into the back of the light and use two bolts to go through that and into the bracket holes on the inside of the gauge...I'll be lining this up for testing this weekend.

How do I know this? I just took delivery on one from the guy (Mat) and was told it's be 48 hours for delivery...it certainly was not that quick (approx 5 weeks in total), his attitude also stinks when you ask when to expect them. The only change I made was to ask for the ignition to be central so I could mount the gauge properly as I knew it'd be an issue with the ignition off to the right. I can live with a steering lock being on in a forward position, I never park my bikes out in public anyway.

The kit itself is nice quality, I didn't bother with anodizing but I kind of wish I did now, so I might get them powder coated along with the lower triple.



I'll put some more detailed pics up soon.