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Chain Tensioning and Related Questions

1.4K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  dcb0821  
#1 ·
Hi all,

For those who want background info, keep reading, otherwise the questions are:

*My sprockets seem out of round such that the chain has very tight and loose spots. What are the possible causes and fixes for this problem?

*When centering the wheel while tightening the chain, assuming I have an equal number of reference marks visible on both sides, should my tire have equal distance on each side away from the swingarm? I have 2 reference marks visible on the chain side and 4 visible on the brake side in order to make the wheel look centered, with equal distance from the swingarm on both sides... Any clue what is going on?

*Is 180/55 an acceptable size rear tire for my bike, seems mighty close to the chain?

*With the rear wheel off the ground, clutch in, start the bike, drop in first, clutch still in, the wheel starts to turn... Is my clutch out of adjustment?

background:

This morning I tried to tighten the chain on my '00 SV that I bought off a forum member about six months ago. This is my first SV and my first time doing motorcycle work. I ran into a couple interesting things that raised questions.

First, I should say that I am tightening my chain because spontaneously it developed gobs of slack. When I bought it, I didn't check it but the bike rode/sounded fine. On my first longish trip to the mountains I started to hear a dragging as if the chain were rubbing something... Sounded really bad, but by that point I was close enough to home that I rode it out gingerly. I thought maybe the wheel slipped in the swing arm, but it appears that probably wasn't the case... I think a lack of lube just stretched it badly. Is that possible?

My starting point was 3 reference marks on each side visible behind the edge of the square washers on the axle... again, gobs of slack at this point. I tightening he adjusters evenly until the chain was as tight as it would go, measured the 21 pins and determined that I am barely within the service limit.

Next I loosened evenly until I found about 3/4" of slack at the center of the chain. As I am typing I realized that I measure at the top of the loop, not the bottom like the manual says...

Now I was at 2 reference marks showing behind the axle washers and had what seemed to be a properly tightened chain... then I spin the rear wheel and notice an incredible lack of uniformity in the chain tension... At some points the chain is fully tight, at others there is 2" of slack at the center... It is as if the sprockets are out of round... Any ideas what is going on?

The next thing I noticed is that despite having equal reference marks on both sides, the wheel seems incredibly crooked in the swing arm... That is, only if I can trust referencing the tire distance perpendicular from the swing arm... In order for the tire to have equal distance from the swing arm on both sides I need to have 2 reference marks showing on the chain side, and 4 showing on the brake side. So should I be trusting the reference marks or measuring distance from the swing arm, or something else...

Other info/questions:

The bike came with a 180/55 rear tire and when the wheel is equal distance from the swingarm on both sides, the chain seems mighty close to the tire... Should I be looking into a stock sized tire?

Also, when I had the bike up on the rear stand I started it up, because I wanted to get the rear wheel going good so that I could see if the chain was jumping around... Anyway, I started it, had the clutch in, dropped it into first and was surprised to see the rear wheel start going before I even thought about letting the clutch out... Is my clutch out of adjustment?

When I went to loosen the torque link nut as specified in the manual I was surprised to find it less than finger tight... It seems like it could have fallen off at any point... Any damage possibly done by this?

Thanks very much for any advice anyone has to offer.

Dave
 
#2 ·
I have the same problem with my chain.. very tight in some spots, very loose in others... I've been told when this happens that it's time to get a new chain. As a rule of thumb, some people recommend getting new sprockets as well since if the original sprockets are a problem, they'll just damage the new chain. Others say just getting a new chain is fine as long as the sprockets are good enough. I'm opting for a new chain and sprocket kit in the off-season. I'd suggest the same for you, but then again.. it depends on how much you're willing to spend.

I use the ticks to help me align the rear wheel properly, but sometimes the ticks don't match on both sides; I spin the wheel and see if the wheel spins in a straight line and also if each tooth in the sprocket goes through the same spot throughout the chain.

That's about it.. I can't really help you regarding the tire, but I'm sure you'll find lots of help on this site.
 
#4 ·
The bike has about 13k on it. Yeah, I know it is not stock, just what it came with from the previous owner, I guess the question is more along the lines of... will it work, or should I get a stock sized tire.

I think my chain question is answered (I need a new one)... so mainly now I need to know if I can measure the distance from the edge of the swing arm to the tire on each side, match them and in theory have a centered wheel, is this more reliable than the reference marks? The reference marks seem way off on my bike...
 
#5 ·
1 it's normal to have tight spots in the chain, check side to side play and the shape of the teeth on the sprocket, the sprocket is probably not outta round, but it's just how the chain has become, you might wanna look into changing it if the length is close to the service limit, remember, change both sprockets when you change the chain

2 the marks on the swingarm suck, tape measure from the swingarm pivot bolt to the axle on both sides, a 1/16 of an inch differance is OK

3 a 180 is the wrong size, a 160 is, might wanna get the proper size tire

4 it's normal for the tire to slowly rotate, it's a wet clutch, it's the fluid that is slightly engaging, when you put your hand on it does it stop??
 
#6 ·
Dave,

first the sprockets are not out of round.... it is your chain that has streched more in some spots... you need a new chain. When you adjust this old chain, measure your chain slack do it on the tightest spot.

If you have a 180/55R17 rear tire just make sure you have a 5.50 rear wheel. If you have a 5.00 wheel, you should use a 170/60/R17. And, if you have the stock 4.50 wheel, you should use a 160/60R17. You can tell which wheel you have as it is casted on the numbers and letters on one of the wheel spokes. As long as your tire does not touch the chain you are good...

The markings on the rear wheel adjustment are ok if you are not a perfectionist... I purchased a chain aligment tool. $24.99 at any Cycle Gear store or at www.cyclegear.com . If your wheel is not perfectly aling your rear sprocket will crook your chain and you will mess up your chain. and your bike will dog trail making turning one side easier than the other.

As far as the clutch it is kind of normal... I notice it more when the bike is cold.... You can adjust your clutch cable so it has more slack

You need to torque your rear wheel and use a pin so it never loosens. this could be the reason you chain is messed up.

Hope this answers some of your questions... Luis.

PS keep asking, we will help you figure out the answers....
 
#7 ·
There are tow reasons for tight spots in the chain. First, the cushion drive on the rear will often not be centered. This is normal. If the chain is still good (see below) then you should adjust the slack at the tightest spot, normal slack.

Second, the chain could be nearing the end of its service life. Put the bike in gear, hold forward and set it on the side stand (puts the bottom run in tension). Count 21 pins on the bottom run of chain. Service limit is 12.57". Measure several sections. If any of them are much past 12.5" it's time to replace.

As mentioned above, don't trust the hash marks, measure between the swingarm pivot and the rear axle on both sides. Should be within 1/16".