[ChevelleFan]

Just so everyone knows, the drawing I have above are the specs of the Suzuki tool. However, I am not saying that it is any better or worse than some of the very creative ideas I have seen here.

I agree, that's the reason we're all here, to share how we did it and learn from others. If one person finds it helpful, then I consider my time taking the pictures and posting it up well spent. There's more than 1 way to skin a cat.

-Dave

 

[smudger]

Im gonna be having similar kinnda trouble.Need to change both cam chains and tensioners on my 99 SV.

 

[jbswear]

Why do you need to change the chains and tensioners?

 

[krichter]

I don't mean to brag or anything, but the tool I crafted is the end-all be-all of cam tensioning

It takes 5-10 seconds to wind back and lock the front, and maybe 15-20 seconds to wind and lock the back. #1 tuner had the right idea.

 

[TamSV]

I didn't find it a huge problem to remove the CCT's TBH but, regardless, I'll definitely be giving your method a try if I need to do it again. So brag all you like.

 

[Lance650]

Q: In another thread a poster insisted that worked on cylinder must be in TDC position. Is this essential? (Otherwise cam chain timing will be affected).

 

[tovar]

Q: In another thread a poster insisted that worked on cylinder must be in TDC position. Is this essential? (Otherwise cam chain timing will be affected).

To change tensioner or cams? No, you should do it with F mark aligned for each cylinder. You can do rear at TDC but if you move chain on sprocket you will have to align F mark to set it correct.

 

[Lance650]

Just to fit a new CCT

 

[champer]

If you are going to be taking a CCT out you want at a minimum to not have the cams pushing on the valves.

I would do it at F TDC for their timing so you know it's set correctly when you are done. Rear is 360 degrees off of F TDC timing.

 

[goodknifeworks]

I just used two very short, narrow slotted drivers. Inserted one, wound it back, and then inserted the other to lock it into place. Don't remove the tensioner. Getting it back on is a bear.

You can buy the screwdrivers at a hobby shop.

www.micromark.com sells them, too

I've been reading all over, and revived an old thread that turned out to be 2nd gen specific, and am having a heck of a time figuring out what I need to do to get the cams out so I can swap the shims on my 1st gen bike. I apologize for being kinda clueless, but I need clarification if you can provide.

For obvious reasons, I would like to avoid removing the cam chain tensioners from the motor. I guess my main questions are:

1- After I wind the tensioner back (clockwise, right?) and lock it into place with the $$$ tool, or two screwdrivers, or a srewdriver and a vise grip, or whatever, what else do I need to do so I can remove the cams?

2- If it's so easy, why would the FSM tell us to remove the tensioners? Are they just trying to sell us gaskets!?

3- Do I need to remove them one at a time, so I don't drop them into the depths?

 

[goodknifeworks]

Also, if anyone has the tool (09917-62430) that they would be willing to sell or lend, please PM me. I'm bona fide.

 

[tovar]

Just take them out, it is hard to get screwdriver in to front one.
Make tool, it is easy once you get tensioner out.

 

[goodknifeworks]

Yeah, I tried to make the tool, my dremel cutoff disk is no match for a hardened hacksaw blade. Maybe I'll try annealing it... Then I suppose I'll need to re-harden it so it doesn't bend in use. Jostling head right now, trying to break free long ago learned metallurgy lessons... Don't know what steel it is, whether to quench in water or oil... Damn, so out of practice!

 

[tovar]

Don't need to be hardened steel, I made my out of aluminum

 

[goodknifeworks]

Well, that's just what I have around. Annealed the hacksaw blade, going faster now!

 

[goodknifeworks]

Oh yeah, I get it - no need to harden when I'm done.

 

[Minnesota]

I use a coat hanger, clip out the long straight section, hammer one end against the garage floor to make it flat. Slide it in, spin it around then bend it so it hits something and it cant unscrew itself.

 

[goodknifeworks]

Update: I just finished my shim swap job (it's like a new bike)... You DO NOT need to remove the cam chain tensioners to remove the cams. I made a tool out of an old hacksaw blade using this template:

...and a rotary cutoff disk.
It's tough to wind it clockwise with one hand, then push it in further to lock it, but it can be done. Wrap some electrical tape around it so it doesn't cut into your fingers. You'll have plenty of slack in the chain. Do one cam at a time so you don't drop the chain into the depths of the motor, or skip a tooth on the crank shaft. When you're done swapping shims, just pull out the tool and the tensioner will click into place. Hope this helps someone. I would have taken tons of pictures of the whole procedure, as I think there are some gaps in the online repository of info for this job, but I'm selfish and lazy

 

[champer]

Did you try your method on the rear cylinder?

I'd rather just take the tensioners out - it's not like it's very difficult or time consuming.

 

[goodknifeworks]

Worked on both cylinders. The hardest part is twisting the tool and locking it in place with one hand, but a few turns is enough. I would think if you take out the cct, you risk the gasket staying behind on the head. The small gasket on mine stuck to the cct, scraped it off with a razor blade. Have one handy.