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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week, riding home from work, my SV started ticking slightly louder than normal. No, not the tick we all know our beloved bike for. Worse. A few miles later, it reached it's loudest. And having no other choice but to walk her the last 12 miles in 100F heat, I cautiously pressed on. Once home and in the garage, and before killing the engine, I gave her a quick listen to try to find the problem.

Sure enough, the cam tensioner had gone bad on the front cylinder. (The spring is all gnarled up inside it; rod won't extend at all.) Not bad for putting around 115k miles on her. But still sucked.

Skipping passed the headache of ordering from the local shop, waiting, I was able to install the new CCT. Pulled the holding tab out after torquing the bolts down and heard the tick. Then moved onto checking the timing and valve clearance.

Now here's where I'm stuck scratching my head. According the shop manual, the cams should be top dead center when the |F mark on the crank is hand turned to align with the notch in the view hole. But I get this...



On the intake cam, the up arrow and other F are perpendicular to the where the head gasket would sit. And, since I'm in there, I thought I would check the valves. But this can't be "top dead center". Am I screwed!?

Also... how tight should the cam chain be? After installing the new CCT, there's maybe 1-2mm of slack. Seems pretty damn taut.
 

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There are 2 TDC on 1 proper cam position so try another 360 and see if its ok.
I found it easy to set just by marks on the cam centers, 2 small ines each. These should go flash with the head surface like with this line:



Cams are different at rear so cam position is not same on both cylinders. Still, you should go by the manual and always double check.
BTW, nice mileage!!!
 

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And just throwing this out there, F is only for the front and R is for the rear.

Sounds simple, and I'm not trying to pick on people. But dumb moments happen. I've had them before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Defining "F" isn't problem. Everything here is isolated to the front already.

The question is, should the F mark on the intake cam be perpendicular to the cylinder head surface when the F mark on crank is aligned with the notch in the view-hole? If so, I'm fine and gikser is wrong. If not, he's right and I need to adjust them. So, which is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good news: gikxer was right! Hand turned the crank another 360, everything was lined up correctly! Glad the chain didn't skip after riding her home 15-18 miles with a dead CCT! Lucky! :D

Bad news: Stripped the threads on the cam covers for the cylinder head cover. :'(

 

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What is the normal milage for a CCT?
 

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Just wondering cause my bike is 30k+ and thats a low end guess i would say its closer to 40k.
 

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My bike, at 66,000 kms (owned since new), has suddenly developed a very noticeable loud tick from the back cylinder area. Drained oil, nothing alarming there. Checked valve clearance and all are still in spec. Viewed cam chain, etc. from the top, and nothing looked bad from that aspect. Next step is CCT inspection, but geez it looks tight in there (space-wise). How the heck are you guys getting your hands in there to remove the CCT's?! How much extra stuff are you clearing out just to gain access?
 

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My bike, at 66,000 kms (owned since new), has suddenly developed a very noticeable loud tick from the back cylinder area. Drained oil, nothing alarming there. Checked valve clearance and all are still in spec. Viewed cam chain, etc. from the top, and nothing looked bad from that aspect. Next step is CCT inspection, but geez it looks tight in there (space-wise). How the heck are you guys getting your hands in there to remove the CCT's?! How much extra stuff are you clearing out just to gain access?
I have the exact same issue from my front cylinder and I'm in the process of rebuilding it now. To get to my rear CCT I removed both pasenger and front rearsets, then used a wobble extension, and 5mm allen socket to remove. Good luck and I hope that fixes it.
 

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My bike, at 66,000 kms (owned since new), has suddenly developed a very noticeable loud tick from the back cylinder area. Drained oil, nothing alarming there. Checked valve clearance and all are still in spec. Viewed cam chain, etc. from the top, and nothing looked bad from that aspect. Next step is CCT inspection, but geez it looks tight in there (space-wise). How the heck are you guys getting your hands in there to remove the CCT's?! How much extra stuff are you clearing out just to gain access?
Removal is "easy". It's putting it back on that kills any patience you may have had left by this point. Btw, a CCT compression too is very useful! With it, you back out the CCT and it holds it in place. Same as just keeping a tiny flathead screwdriver in the hole holding back the spring force. Without the proper tool, it's a huge b!+€# to do. With it, it's less hard. Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle
 

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Does anyone have a video link of what this "tick" sounds like? I'd like to know if it's the same sound I'm hearing on my bike...
 

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Does anyone have a video link of what this "tick" sounds like? I'd like to know if it's the same sound I'm hearing on my bike...
If the CCT failed, imagine a chain inside of a hollow chunk of aluminum slapping around while the engine spins at x-thousands of RPM. Sounds horrendous! A slight tick is common and not bad. It's just the bike letting you know it's ticker is still installed. :p I had that question on all my bikes.

But if you are curious, search this forum or YouTube and you'll find some good vids

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