[MattTriesToDoThings]

I went to go install a Woodcraft Keyless ignition on my 2001 SV650. It has gen1 gauges mounted to a GSXR main fairing stay. I verified the electronics work without the gauges connected; however, I have no idea how I can get the front gauges connected without making up a ~24" 6pin extension from the green connector near the airbox to the Woodcraft keyless ignition piece.

The issue is that in order for the gauges to be connected, you need to run the main harness (left side of frame) out to the gauges/headlight sub-harness, and then to the right-side hand controls. If it weren't for the need for the gauges, I think I could actually just tuck everything under the tank.

Before I go doing some research on how to put together a 2ft extension from the green connector to the Woodcraft piece, I figured I would ask if anybody has done this before. And am I missing something really obvious and basic because my search results are turning up absolutely nothing related. The Woodcraft instructions are universal and not bike-specific.

Green connector disconnected (no burn damage, good).

Headlight/gauges subharness connected.

And you can see just how far I have to go. Further than this looks, actually, because I need to tidy/mount harness to the mount.

And then short 30s video in case my explanation wasn't clear.

It seems like I could make an extension from the green connector to the pin black woodcraft connector if I can figure out what the correct connectors are. I'm just curious if that's actually necessary though. Any insight is appreciated.

 

[PeteH]

The Woodcraft keyless extension is just a wiring harness that bypasses the ignition barrel and let's you remove the barrel by connecting inline. It is not universal it is bike or at least manufacturer specific, with USA and European variants. Do you have the correct one? There is a useful video on Woodcrafts website. Also you mentioned a gixxer front end. I'm not sure if that introduces a new variable or not. Good luck with it!

 

[MattTriesToDoThings]

The Woodcraft keyless extension is just a wiring harness that bypasses the ignition barrel and let's you remove the barrel by connecting inline. It is not universal it is bike or at least manufacturer specific, with USA and European variants. Do you have the correct one? There is a useful video on Woodcrafts website. Also you mentioned a gixxer front end. I'm not sure if that introduces a new variable or not. Good luck with it!

Yep--it's the SV650 version. I only have the GSXR fairing stay for the bodywork--I can switch it over to the stock bodywork and fairing stay and I'd have the same issue. This is the one I have

I just can't see how you can keep the gauge cluster connected while installing this thing.

 

[Tas650]

interesting…… on my 2nd gen the keyless doesn’t affect my electrical what so ever…..as mentioned it only bypasses the key switch….. you still use the oem right side starter button and on/off switch.

 

[MattTriesToDoThings]

interesting…… on my 2nd gen the keyless doesn’t affect my electrical what so ever…..as mentioned it only bypasses the key switch….. you still use the oem right side starter button and on/off switch.

Mad8v gave me some insight on another video I posted asking for help on YouTube. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like this is just a case of me being dumb. This may be a case of my bike being special and the $61 I paid for convenience is going to be a bit of a hassle. I'm likely going to be cutting open that Woodcraft piece and extending it.

 

[MattTriesToDoThings]

I'm guessing this is problematic for most Gen1 650S's from what I'm seeing on wiring drawings. The subharness connects with the red circled plug. The subharness is maybe only 10" on each side, so the connections from the right and left hand controls need to be made outside of the frame--not tucked under the tank. That places the Woodcraft keyless ignition on the front fairing stay with no ability to get anywhere near the green connector on the primary wiring harness.

2001 SV650S wiring diagram

Whereas on a fuel injected SV650S you can see why this is no big deal at all. The gauge cluster is part of the primary wiring harness-not a subharness. You can just unplug the headlight subharness piece ezpz whereas on the carbureted version it all needs to route around up front in order to maintain the gauges.

2009 SV650S Wiring Diagram

Oh well. Now I'm starting to wonder if people have actually installed these Woodcraft Keyless Ignitions on the carbureted bikes before or if they just repeat "it takes 5 minutes bro" because they heard someone else say it, lol

 

[BurnCycle291]

These next few words are of no help but... It was plug and play on a Gen 2.

 

[PeteH]

Don't be put off. When I looked into the Woodcraft, it did say that some bike types may need a modification. I would check that the mod you are making is just to extend the cable and that everything else is the same.

 

[RichDesmond]

It may be plug n play on the naked but not on the S, the wiring harnesses are different.
IIRC the naked doesn't have the sub-harness, the leads to the lights and gauges are just part of the main harness.

 

[MattTriesToDoThings]

Thanks guys. I'll try doing a little extension and report back if it works out. Cheers.

 

[MattTriesToDoThings]

I did get a response back from Woodcraft, and it was basically that they hadn't heard of this issue before. For everything that isn't a gen1 SV650S, I can see that. I'm pretty sure all the wiring is stock on this bike from checking pictures though.

Anyway, just in case anybody comes across this in the future--I just added a 16" 18 gauge extension, and I think it'll work out alright.

Unmolested Woodcraft Keyless Ignition piece

Protective cover removed. Two pins are jumped with a black wire, and two pins are jumped with what I imagine is an appropriate resistor between.

16" Extension added

I thought about it for a while, and I think these connections that use a heat gun to melt the solder(?) at the connection point give me the strongest connection and best chance at not failing. I was recommended these by a friend before I wired up my trailer, and they haven't let me down yet. I did a test run on some scrap wire and it took a hell of a lot of force to pull them apart. I'm good with it.

Wrapped up

Installed

Everything seems to be working fine. Crossed fingers that's good enough. I think it is.

 

[golden chicken]

I like those solder heat shrink butt splices for anything that needs to carry a clean signal. For anything that needs to carry 12V, I just use crimp on butt splices with heat shrink.