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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Choke, no choke, all the same. I will put the battery on a charger just to be sure, but it was cranking enough that you would think it was gonna start.

Would it matter that when i have the clutch pulled in, it's like it's not really engaged all the way? the bike doesn't roll free w/the clutch pulled in, but it does fine in neutral. (i was starting in N, then once in 1 just to see, and it jumped forward nice but no start)

thanks for help, sorry i don't know more about bikes (really hate walking!)
 

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If it's cranking then it's not one of the safety switches (clutch, neutral, sidestand). It could be the stop/run switch.

Are you sure it has gas/spark/air? Check all and then proceed.

More details: Did it sit up for a while? How many miles? Kept inside or outside?

The clutch will indeed drag a bit with the lever in. The bike should be pushable with a little effort. Always start the bike in neutral for safety's sake.
 

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what are we talking about temperature ? if your talking freezing or below, charge the battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks
it's a 2000 w/16k miles. brand new plugs, carbs clean, sits outside but under a cover. it's been between 25-35 at night. i usually ride every day, although this week i haven't as much b/c of work. when i ride i try to get it out of town and run for a bit, so that it's not starting just to go a mile on city streets.

i will check gas/air/spark when i charge the battery--i found a good price on an optimate III charger, so i think i'll order it. for now, though, i mostly thought i'd ask about whether something was weird w/the clutch engaging. i'll pop back as soon as i get the battery full up, i think it's a bit tired now from trying to start!

again, thanks. it is really great that this place is here, b/c i don't know anyone who rides and don't know much myself
 

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longcut-- only times I've had problems starting have been battery related; temperature doesn't seem to matter much (well, down to about 25-30 F; that's my lower threshold). In fact, even half choke in that temp range and the bike fires on the first or second crank as long as there is juice; if it turns overs more than three times with good battery power without firing up, it's definitely fuel or air or both....
 

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mine has sat for about 4 months, no running, not on a charger/tender... jsut sittin in 0 degree weather... in the garage... it did NOT wanna start last weekend.. took about 5 mins to get her runnin..

last winter, she sat on the chaerger all winter... started up NO problems....

FWIW
 

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have you checked the regulator/rectifier? I had the same problem about 3 weeks after I fixed my starter and some gears. My bike wouldnt start if it got colder at night, but when it warmed up during the day it would start. So I started parking it in the house, but one of the diodes was bad in the rr and it wasnt keeping the battery charged to start it everyday. If I charged the battery it would be ok to start for a few days and ride, but would die back down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, the batter was definitely in need of a charge. I put it on this morning and it sounded great, turned over aggressively, roared into life with 3/4 choke, then sputtered right out. I tried a little less choke, same result. Now it turns over, but no sign of combustion.

I went out later and it started right up, but with full choke it struggles to stay at 2k, I tried coaxing it to stay alive w/throttle but it invariably sputters out.

Where do I look next?

(oh yeah, the clutch drags a lot, too, even though i have it tight to the limit. is that relevant?)

Thanks
 

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longcut said:
Ok, the batter was definitely in need of a charge. I put it on this morning and it sounded great, turned over aggressively, roared into life with 3/4 choke, then sputtered right out. I tried a little less choke, same result. Now it turns over, but no sign of combustion.

I went out later and it started right up, but with full choke it struggles to stay at 2k, I tried coaxing it to stay alive w/throttle but it invariably sputters out.

Where do I look next?

(oh yeah, the clutch drags a lot, too, even though i have it tight to the limit. is that relevant?)
 
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you did test your rr? mine looks great too, but it tested bad. I would be willing to bet that if you charged your battery and then later it struggled then its your rr. I had to replace that in the middle of December. I could charge the battery and run for a few days. Then would struggle to get it started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine didn't run for a few days before struggling; it started, but then stalled right away. It will start for a second, but then futz along all weak and then sputter out. Would the electrical system matter here? I am happy to pull the plastic back off and test the R/R. What do I do? Just throw the multimeter on there? What would be bad and good (14.4=good?)

thanks again!
 

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longcut said:
Mine didn't run for a few days before struggling; it started, but then stalled right away. It will start for a second, but then futz along all weak and then sputter out. Would the electrical system matter here? I am happy to pull the plastic back off and test the R/R. What do I do? Just throw the multimeter on there? What would be bad and good (14.4=good?)

thanks again!
have you downloaded the manual or even looked at the manual? you need to test the diodes on the yellow wires on the rr. just by looking at it you cant tell anything. I didnt want to believe it was my rr either, but after fixing all the stuff I did, then having the trouble, testing the rr and now there are no troubles. Yes, test the diodes with the multimeter. here is the link for the manual....

http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=41567
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i didn't mean the rr looked good, i meant the link explaining how to change it made the process look straightforward. thanks for the link for the manual--i was gonna go get one at halford's tomorrow, but put it off since it always rains and i have to walk.

i don't mean to sound stupid, it's just that i have no mechanical experience whatsoever. but neither do i have any money to pay someone to do this for me, so it's learn or keep walking!
 

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you dont sound stupid. I read the post wrong. I have NO mechanical expierence either and I refuse to have someone(especially someone I dont know) look at my bike. Thats why I am going to school for this stuff. A week after I started school, my bike broke down and the stuff you are describing sounds just like the problems I had. Its not uncommon for the RR to go out, and I didnt want to think my bike was electrical either. The rectifier changes AC to DC and the regulator keeps from over charging. Thats all in one piece. If it is that, find an after market one. They aren't as expensive as one from Suzuki.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i would totally love to take a class on maintenance; i didn't grow up around anyone who rides, and none of my friends do. and i hate the feeling of getting taken, so even if i did have the money to pay the mechanic, i'd be awfully reluctant to do it. but since the nearest shop is like 10 miles and i'd have to push and then pay, it's out of the question anyway!

i will check the rr output tomorrow morning when it's light and hopefully stops raining. will report back. i really do appreciate the help b/c otherwise i'll just be randomly poking about whenever i'm not at work
 

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shermans_shazaam said:
you dont sound stupid. I read the post wrong. I have NO mechanical expierence either and I refuse to have someone(especially someone I dont know) look at my bike. Thats why I am going to school for this stuff. A week after I started school,  my bike broke down and the stuff you are describing sounds just like the problems I had. Its not uncommon for the RR to go out, and I didnt want to think my bike was electrical either. The rectifier changes AC to DC and the regulator keeps from over charging. Thats all in one piece. If it is that, find an after market one. They aren't as expensive as one from Suzuki.
the regulator not only keeps it from over charging, it also keeps 70 volts from blowing your light bulbs

sometimes, the diodes and other semiconductors in the RR work fine when cold, than after they are warm, they start malfunctioning,
 

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RandyO said:
sometimes, the diodes and other semiconductors in the RR work fine when cold, than after they are warm, they start malfunctioning,
I hadnt expierenced that, unless that was the problem when I would go around a corner and it would cut out and come back on. wierd.
 

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shermans_shazaam said:
I hadnt expierenced that, unless that was the problem when I would go around a corner and it would cut out and come back on. wierd.
it took me a while to diagnose my bad RR, every time I checked it and even once my dealer checked it, it was ok, putting out 14-15 volts, I always checked the voltage before I started riding. yet after an hour of riding I would start having problems cause my battery was dieing, Iwould manage to get home before it went completly dead, and put my charger on it.

then I got the bright idea of checking it after I had ridden a half hour or so, and it was only putting out 11-12 volts
 
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