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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title says I am trying to find out if a 2003-2004 speedometer will fit my 2006 sv1000. I found one for sale but it says it will fit a 03, 04, 05, 06, & 07. I think I remember reading on this forum that the 2003-2004 won’t work and I’m curious why?
 

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The '03 and '04 SV1000 have a single fuel level sensor (Solid LED), the '05+ have dual fuel level (Solid/Blink LED). The '03 gauge can be made to work on your '06, but you will lose the dual fuel level indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The '03 and '04 SV1000 have a single fuel level sensor (Solid LED), the '05+ have dual fuel level (Solid/Blink LED). The '03 gauge can be made to work on your '06, but you will lose the dual fuel level indicator.
Thank you so much for the response. So if I hook up a 2003 Speedo to my 2006…will it work without me doing anything special to it? I will just loose the extra fuel light?
 

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You have to make a mod to make it work.

Below is the gauge pinout for the SV650, but the SV1000 pinout is the same. Note, the only difference is at pin9. Pin9 for the '03-'04 is Illumination Power. Pin9 for the '05+ is Very_low_fuel.

To make the '03 gauge work on your '06 bike, Black/Lt-green at pin9 needs to be removed and replaced with power from Orange/Green (12v switched power) from pin2.

Do you already have the '03 gauge in hand? As a quick test, you can plug the '03 gauge in without making any changes. Nothing will be damaged.

It is possible the Black/Lt-Green fuel sensor signal will provide enough power to illuminate the gauge as B/Lt-G connects to 12v through a low-value 50-ohm resistor (that is how the fuel level sensor gets power). But when the fuel gets very_low, Black/Lt-green will drop from 12v down to about 6v, and the gauge illumination would definitely go out. If that works (I am not sure), you might even be able to get away without making any changes. So long as the fuel never gets very_low (< 0.5gal) the illumination would work. Bonus, the gauge would go dark at night if the fuel ever gets very_low. Now you have dual fuel level indication - at least at night. It's not a bug; it's a feature, lol. Good luck. Welcome to SVRider.
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Btw, what happened to the old gauge? It is possible to swap ‘06 guts into an ‘03 gauge if just the case got damaged.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You have to make a mod to make it work.

Below is the gauge pinout for the SV650, but the SV1000 pinout is the same. Note, the only difference is at pin9. Pin9 for the '03-'04 is Illumination Power. Pin9 for the '05+ is Very_low_fuel.

To make the '03 gauge work on your '06 bike, Black/Lt-green at pin9 needs to be removed and replaced with power from Orange/Green (12v switched power) from pin2.

Do you already have the '03 gauge in hand? As a quick test, you can plug the '03 gauge in without making any changes. Nothing will be damaged.

It is possible the Black/Lt-Green fuel sensor signal will provide enough power to illuminate the gauge as B/Lt-G connection to 12v through a low-value 50-ohm resistor (that is is how the fuel level sensor gets power). But when the fuel gets very_low, Black/Lt-green will drop from 12v down to about 6v, and the gauge illumination would definitely go out. If that works (I am not sure), you might even be able to get away without making any changes. So long as the fuel never gets very_low (< 0.5gal) the illumination would work. Bonus, the gauge would go dark at night if the fuel ever gets very_low. Now you have dual fuel level indication - at least at night. It's not a bug; it's a feature, lol. Good luck. Welcome to SVRider.
View attachment 62012
So if I removed the wire from pin 9, should I make a small jumper from from the pin2 ignition wire to pin9? Or should I completely remove the wire from pin2 and place it in pin9?
thank you so much for all this, information on this subject has been so hard for me to find. This should be my last question. I will also try the just plugging it straight in and seeing if I can get that illum/fuel sensor feature!lol
 

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So if I removed the wire from pin 9, should I make a small jumper from the pin2 ignition wire to pin9?
Yes. Basically, pin9 needs to see switched 12v instead of the fuel level signal. O/G is right next-door at pin2 so is a good place to tap-in.

Here is the thing. It would be best to do this without hacking the harness. Hacking the harness will make your SV sad and she will likely harbor resentment for thousands of miles. Not good. Also, it would be nice to be able to easily reverse the mod in the future if you come across the proper gauge.

The least invasive method would be:
1. Remove pin9 Black/Lt-Green from the connector, fold it back, secure and insulate with electrical tape. See the image below on how to remove a connector pin.
2. Insert a new connector pin with a short pigtail at location9. Connect the pigtail to O/G at pin2 wire. Do not cut the O/G wire. Rather, use wire strippers to gently cut the insulation only, then push the insulation to the side to reveal about 1/4" of bare wire. Solder the pigtail to the exposed wire. Insulate.

New connector pins are available online, but you also need the proper crimp tool. If you like, send me your address, I can mail you a connector pin with a 3" wire attached, no charge. Click on my avatar, then click "Start Conversation".

Here is how to remove a pin from the SV gauge connector.
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What happened to the old gauge?
 

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Yes. Basically, pin9 needs to see switched 12v instead of the fuel level signal. O/G is right next-door at pin2 so is a good place to tap-in.

Here is the thing. It would be best to do this without hacking the harness. Hacking the harness will make your SV sad and she will likely harbor resentment for thousands of miles. Not good. Also, it would be nice to be able to easily reverse the mod in the future if you come across the proper gauge.

The least invasive method would be:
1. Remove pin9 Black/Lt-Green from the connector, fold it back, secure and insulate with electrical tape. See the image below on how to remove a connector pin.
2. Insert a new connector pin with a short pigtail at location9. Connect the pigtail to O/G at pin2 wire. Do not cut the O/G wire. Rather, use wire strippers to gently cut the insulation only, then push the insulation to the side to reveal about 1/4" of bare wire. Solder the pigtail to the exposed wire. Insulate.

New connector pins are available online, but you also need the proper crimp tool. If you like, send me your address, I can mail you a connector pin with a 3" wire attached, no charge. Click on my avatar, then click "Start Conversation".

Here is how to remove a pin from the SV gauge connector.
View attachment 62020

What happened to the old gauge?
TeeRiver Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge and for being a cool person. It might seem like a small thing offering to send a connector pin with wire attached and I call it badassery. Great advice on not hacking into the harness. There are already enough known spots to check for electrical issues; why add any more to the list?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Btw, what happened to the old gauge? It is possible to swap ‘06 guts into an ‘03 gauge if just the case got damaged.
The
Yes. Basically, pin9 needs to see switched 12v instead of the fuel level signal. O/G is right next-door at pin2 so is a good place to tap-in.

Here is the thing. It would be best to do this without hacking the harness. Hacking the harness will make your SV sad and she will likely harbor resentment for thousands of miles. Not good. Also, it would be nice to be able to easily reverse the mod in the future if you come across the proper gauge.

The least invasive method would be:
1. Remove pin9 Black/Lt-Green from the connector, fold it back, secure and insulate with electrical tape. See the image below on how to remove a connector pin.
2. Insert a new connector pin with a short pigtail at location9. Connect the pigtail to O/G at pin2 wire. Do not cut the O/G wire. Rather, use wire strippers to gently cut the insulation only, then push the insulation to the side to reveal about 1/4" of bare wire. Solder the pigtail to the exposed wire. Insulate.

New connector pins are available online, but you also need the proper crimp tool. If you like, send me your address, I can mail you a connector pin with a 3" wire attached, no charge. Click on my avatar, then click "Start Conversation".

Here is how to remove a pin from the SV gauge connector.
View attachment 62020

What happened to the old gauge?
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain all of this. Much appreciated! The old gauge was never on the bike when I bought it. It has a Koso but no fuel level or fuel warning light. The guy that installed the koso didn’t hack into the wiring harness so I still have the original plug where I can Re-install the stock gauge. Instead of trying to figure out how to wire the Koso correctly I figured it would be much easier to just go back to stock gauges.
 

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... Instead of trying to figure out how to wire the Koso correctly I figured it would be much easier to just go back to stock gauges.
Good choice. The stock SV gauge is a quality instrument and has that big beautiful analog tach. (y)

On its way.
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Check the plug to clutch switch located under the clutch perch. It that plug came off (common) the bike will act like the starter button is broken.

Nothing at the gauge can cause the starter to not work. The gauge can be completely unplugged the bike will run fine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Check the plug to clutch switch located under the clutch perch. It that plug came off (common) the bike will act like the starter button is broken.

Nothing at the gauge can cause the starter to not work. The gauge can be completely unplugged the bike will run fine.
I just saw your message but yes it was the clutch wire.lol I messed with that thing for 2 hours running through things it could be until I noticed the plug. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the Help TeeRiver!!! Got it all working correctly now I’m just stumped on how to mount the thing since I don’t have a front fairing. It was converted to a naked and that’s why the original owner swapped the speedo. I’m going to try and find some fork mount brackets or something but In the mean time I will continue to use the Koso. The Koso that is hooked up to the bike works perfectly except for the Tach…no rpm show on gauge. While I had the bike apart I tried wiring the brown Koso tach wire to the SV Brown and black tach wire but still no luck. Is there something special I have to do to make the Koso read Rpm on the sv1000 2006?
 

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... I tried wiring the brown Koso tach wire to the SV Brown and black tach wire, but still no luck. Is there something special I have to do to make the Koso read Rpm on the sv1000 2006?
The tach signal on Brown/Black coming from the SV ECM is a beautiful, clean, 12v p-p square wave; below. If the Koso can not read that, it must be looking for something else.
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What model Koso do you have and what do the install instructions say about the tach connection? It may be looking for a much higher voltage signal from the ignition coil's primary side (can be up to 150v!) or expecting an inductive pulse from a wire wrapped around the high-tension spark plug lead. Maybe try that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The tach signal on Brown/Black coming from the SV ECM is a beautiful, clean, 12v p-p square wave; below. If the Koso can not read that, it must be looking for something else.
View attachment 62124
What model Koso do you have and what do the install instructions say about the tach connection? It may be looking for a much higher voltage signal from the ignition coil's primary side (can be up to 150v!) or expecting an inductive pulse from a wire wrapped around the high-tension spark plug lead. Maybe try that.
It’s the Koso DB-01RN. Looking for that info now
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The tach signal on Brown/Black coming from the SV ECM is a beautiful, clean, 12v p-p square wave; below. If the Koso can not read that, it must be looking for something else.
View attachment 62124
What model Koso do you have and what do the install instructions say about the tach connection? It may be looking for a much higher voltage signal from the ignition coil's primary side (can be up to 150v!) or expecting an inductive pulse from a wire wrapped around the high-tension spark plug lead. Maybe try that.
It’s the Koso DB-01RN. I’m looking through the manual now.
 

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Brent, did you get the tach working?

One other thing. Have you tested to see if the fuel gauge is working correctly? I just realized one more thing is necessary to make the '03 gauge fuel light work on your '06 bike.

If this resistor pack is still in the tail section, it must be unplugged. This pack holds the load resistors for the fuel level thermistor. The '03 gauge has these resistors internal to the gauge. On the '06, they are external, as shown. If the resistors in the tail are left connected, double resistance will be in the fuel thermistor circuit. Sorry, I did not think about it until just now.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Brent, did you get the tach working?

One other thing. Have you tested to see if the fuel gauge is working correctly? I just realized one more thing is necessary to make the '03 gauge fuel light work on your '06 bike.

If this resistor pack is still in the tail section, it must be unplugged. This pack holds the load resistors for the fuel level thermistor. The '03 gauge has these resistors internal to the gauge. On the '06, they are external, as shown. If the resistors in the tail are left connected, double resistance will be in the fuel thermistor circuit. Sorry, I did not think about it until just now.
View attachment 62164
Yes I got the tach working thanks for checking. I will have to check the resistor pack and see if it’s still on there. I am using the Koso now so I don’t have fuel light at all (very annoying).lol Before I actually mount the stock speedometer cluster I will unplug that resistor pack. I still haven’t worked out how to mount the dang thing.
 
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