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Ok I was wondering how many miles on a 03 sv motor would you switch to synthetic oil? My bike is approaching 20K miles, so wondering should I switch or not?
 

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if ya change it every 3K or less, just use the dino, if ya go 4-5K then use the synthetic..

i'm very satisfied with Rotella full synth, shifts easy and positive, no foaming...
 

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The only reason I would run synthetic is if I was racing or wanted to extend the interval of my oil changes. Otherwise it's just a waste of money. It's not worth the extra $$$ if you don't need it. But it's your money do what you want with it :). Just my $.02 for the day.
 

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Note that synthetic oils have dropped their "extended oil claim" changes. They get dirty, turn acidic and use up their additive packages just like regular oils.

Take a look. This is one of the best and most factual articles I've found.
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
Thats a pretty objective report.
Since they don't mention Maxima oils I'll keep using Maxima oil...lol
They do mention that synthetics are more for "high performance" engines.
I have used both, petros, and synths, and they do feel different.

I started using synthetic immediately after my bikes first schedule service.
 

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I can tell you that my VW Golf TDI (Diesel-LOVE this car) REQUIRES that I use full synthetic oil. Not sure why.

On the bike side, I'm guessing as long as your bike isn't running lean, and you keep on top of oil changes, you don't get any benefits from Synthetic oil. Just a guess though, I know for a fact that I had clutch issues on my old Hawk with Honda HP4 synthetic blend that had the additive MOLY in it. Went away when I used the HP4 without MOLY. It was explained to me by my Honda tech that MOLY really effs with wet clutches. The HP4 in my hawk didn't really seem to hold up any better than regular oil, but it did feel a lot smoother immediately after changing. And the crap is expensive.
 

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In simplistic terms, good synthetics will have far less "shear" than non synthetics offering greater protection under high stress conditions. Engines utilized in racing conditions are under stress conditions pretty much the entire running time.

Aside from a few bucks at oil change, why would you NOT want the same protection?

That NordicGroup article posted had a bit of decent info but far from objective. Statistical data was pretty much non-existant.

If you want to learn some unbiased information about oil, spend some time at www.bobistheoilguy.com. You'll get an education.

I'll be sticking with Synthetics in all the vehicles and equipment that I own.
 

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1992 Acura Vigor GS -> 237,000+ miles and only used synthetic lube once. It started leaking oil 50 miles after the oil was put in. Ran another 70,000 miles after changing back to dino. What killed the car was the driver's-side half-shaft went to war with the suspension.

I guess I should also mention that I changed the oil every 7,500 miles.

In my experience, nothing has ever made me believe that the benefit of synthetic oil is anything but negligible. I'm not saying that it isn't better, just that in a real-world application its difference is negligible... IMHO.
 

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In my career as a mechanical engineer I worked for a major oil company. When synthetics came out the company I worked for never claimed extended oil changes as a benefit because testing had already shown that synthetics were no better at resisting dirt or blowby or other causes of deterioration.

If your owner's manual said to use only synthetics then they had a reason. Shear resistance could be one of them. SV engines are very easy on oil, so shear resistance isn't an issue. The only reason I recommend diesel specific oils is because they work very well in motorcycle transmissions. Note that the high mileage king on this site went over 130,000 miles on an SV using "whatever oil the dealer put in" during servicing.

The only way to find out if your oil is performing is through engine oil analysis. Experience on this site says almost anything decent will work fine.

Ask yourself these questions: How much did your car or truck cost and what kind of oil do you use in it? How much less did your bike cost? Do you use uber-expensive oils in it?
 

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In my career as a mechanical engineer I worked for a major oil company. When synthetics came out the company I worked for never claimed extended oil changes as a benefit because testing had already shown that synthetics were no better at resisting dirt or blowby or other causes of deterioration.

If your owner's manual said to use only synthetics then they had a reason. Shear resistance could be one of them. SV engines are very easy on oil, so shear resistance isn't an issue. The only reason I recommend diesel specific oils is because they work very well in motorcycle transmissions. Note that the high mileage king on this site went over 130,000 miles on an SV using "whatever oil the dealer put in" during servicing.

The only way to find out if your oil is performing is through engine oil analysis. Experience on this site says almost anything decent will work fine.

Ask yourself these questions: How much did your car or truck cost and what kind of oil do you use in it? How much less did your bike cost? Do you use uber-expensive oils in it?
First, thank you for that oil link. I've never seen it before and it seems to be "objective" which is more than I can say for most informational oil sites.

Second, wow, I didn't know you were a mechanical engineer.......I thought you were just an experienced mechanic!
 

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Pro - Peace of mind, if you think paying more for oil is better
Con - More expensive
So, I've heard that going between synthetic and conventional can be "dangerous" in terms of causing leaks or whatever. True? or fable?

I'm currently using the RotellaT 5W-40 Syn. And since paying $4/qt vs. $2/qt is not longer sensible (if syn and dyno is not a major concern for the SV), then I'd rather go and use conventional oil.
 

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When synthetics first came on the market some seals did start leaking (some BMWs had problems, for example). It was a problem in seal shape and tension, not a problem with the synthetics attacking the elastomers. It wasn't a problem with every vehicle, just a few and then just a couple of seals here and there.

Since then troublesome seals have been redesigned so there shouldn't be a problem with anything newer than, say, 1995.

If you put synthetics in any vehicle and the seals leak, just go back to regular oils.
 

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when to go synthetic? Right away unless you have a vehicle that was designed for conventional.
 

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Yeah, if you've used conventional for a while, switching to synthetic could lead to oil leaking from the seals. The synthetic particles are smaller or something like that. so stick to conventional.
 

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When synthetics first came on the market some seals did start leaking (some BMWs had problems, for example). It was a problem in seal shape and tension, not a problem with the synthetics attacking the elastomers. It wasn't a problem with every vehicle, just a few and then just a couple of seals here and there.

Since then troublesome seals have been redesigned so there shouldn't be a problem with anything newer than, say, 1995.

If you put synthetics in any vehicle and the seals leak, just go back to regular oils.
Yeah, if you've used conventional for a while, switching to synthetic could lead to oil leaking from the seals. The synthetic particles are smaller or something like that. so stick to conventional.
mavfan, meet andyauger. andyauger, this is mavfan. now, you two play nice!
 
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