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Hokay

I've tried to sort my way through the various posts but...

What other bikes r/r are compatible with the 99 SV650 ??????
 

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I got mine off of a GSXR, just make sure it has the same number of wires as your sv RR, and if you want it really convenient, get one that has the same wiring harness as well. Hope that helps, ebay should help you out...
 

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Watch out, K2 SV650 is different from the other curvies... Or at least, some are, there seems to be some crossover. Assorted Honda and Kwak ones can be adapted to fit, including recent CBR600RRs- I've got one on the way which I'll be fitting, as they're generally said to be more reliable (they're also cheap, SV ones are expensive since they're always blowing up) However, I don't know how it's actually done, I'll be finding out at the weekend if all goes according to plam ;)
 

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As long as there are 3 AC wires, a battery wire, and a ground wire, any regulator/rectifier should work. You may have to put new connectors on them, but they all function the same way. The only difference I can see is the voltage that the regulator is set at.
 

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6-wire Honda ones can be made to work also. Or this rather inexplicably 7-wire CBR6RR one, as well. Never done it with the 6, but I know it's been done. The 7 includes 2 hots and 2 grounds, I have no idea at all why.
 

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Makes sense... Though tbh, if I've got a damaged 12V +ve rattling around the bike I'd sooner know about it before it blows all my fuses :)

Incidentally, this one has red and green hot and earth, any idea which is which? I'm an electrical incompetent, I can put things together but I'm not so hot at figuring them out. I don't have a working reg/rec to compare to.
 

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Well, OK, just fitted my CBR600RR rectifier. Pretty easy- cut and insulated the extra red and green wires, and simply wired the rest to their SV equivalents. It bolts onto the same place and clears the fairings just fine.

Why do it? 2 reasons. One is, the SV one's not particularily reliable- this is the second I've had blown. These Honda ones aren't known for failing. But the bigger reason, for me at least, is that they're very, very cheap- SV ones are pretty pricey second hand and it's always a gamble. But as the Honda ones are very reliable, they're basically not in demand at all- I got 2 last week on Ebay for well under what you'd pay for one SV or GSXR one. Very simple to fit so you don't need to analyse it too hard :)
 

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2005 CBR600RR I think, though the same item appears on other bikes, assorted Kwaks and GSXRs. Yellow lines to yellow (doesn't matter how, just 1 to 1) red lines spliced together and attached to the SV's +12, and green lines spliced together and attached to the neutral. Dead easy really.
 

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Just as a side note, if your sv electronics are going crazy, gauges bouncing for no apparent reason, and your bike is just running like crap from evident electronic problems, it may not be your regulator... Don't make the mistake like me and jump the gun to the regulator... Turns out that the sv rattled my ground bolt loose from my battery. The loose connection would rattle on my battery mimicking r/r problems. After several hours of trouble shooting, for it to be as simple as that... go figure ;) I hope my pain is your gain.
 

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I had the exact same actually, luckily I found it almost immediately as it was audibly arcing, but it would have been an utter PITA otherwise.
 

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Allow me to hijack this thread for a second and ask a question. I'm trying to test my r/r and the service manual isn't much help. It says disconnect the generator wiring harness (3 prongs) and test the voltage between any one of the 3 wires and any one of the 2 wires.

Huh?
 

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The easiest way to test the Rectifier is this way:

- Unplug R/R
- Set multimeter to diode scale (it's the sideways triangle with the line going through it)
- Insert black lead into red wire terminal, then red lead into any of the yellow wire terminals (or white, I'm not sure... basically whatever color there's three of)
- You should get a reading of around .5 (or 5.0, I don't remember that either :)). Any reading not too low or too high is more or less good
- Repeat for other two wires.
- Now, insert red lead into black wire terminal and insert black lead into three AC wires. You should get the same readings.
- Now, insert red lead into red wire terminal, and repeat above steps. You should get a reading of "Infinity" or "Out of Limits". If you get any kind of reading, replace the R/R.
- Also, insert black lead into black wire terminal and repeat. Again, any reading means the R/R is bad.
- To test the regulator, plug in R/R, run bike at about 3,000rpms, and test DC voltage at the battery. If it's higher than 14.5-15v or the same or lower as key-off battery voltage, the regulator is bad. Get a new unit.



Hopefully this is not too confusing. I'm also not sure if that's exactly right, but it's pretty close :) I know that you do 12 tests on the diodes, and 6 will come up with a reading and 6 will come up with no reading on a good unit.
 

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Okay, I got it, what screwed me up was the testing for voltage; I figured the bike had to be running, and it just didn't make any sense. Then I noticed it called for diode testing mode, and I was like, :tard:

Anyway: Black test lead on red wire, red test lead on yellow wires, I get .9 on all three. That's almost twice .5. But they're all the same. Are they all fried, or are they all okay? The service manual says it should read .4 to .7.

...

Okay, I just tested yellow to yellow, and I get no reading on any circuit. It's supposed to be 1.5. I guess something's fried.

Edit: I just did red to black/black to red, and I get 1.4v. It's supposed to be .5 to .8v. Something's fried.
 
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