Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last weekend, I finally had the time to install my new RaceTech emu's and .85 springs along with 20wt oil. This is the first time I've tried anything suspension related, but I figured between all the good stuff here on the forum and the write up on bluepoof.com, it should be easy enough, right? Well it is, but I found a few things along the way that I had not read before or didn't immediately recall so I thought I would share them. If you've already done forks this probably won't help, unless you need a good laugh, but I think it would have saved me a couple hours if I had been aware of these things prior to starting. So here goes:

1. The impact wrench is not necessarily the be-all, end-all when it comes to removing stubborn bolts. I hammered away on the front axle bolt for a good 20 minutes and it would not budge. Using the breaker bar (as suggested by nokturnal-thanks again) and it came loose with little effort.

2. The damper rods are free to spin inside the inner tube when you start trying to loosen the damper rod bolt on the bottom of the outer tube. Looking over the bluepoof write up, which is a really good resource, she just hit them with the impact wrench and "wa-la" they were out. Of course, mine had to spin with the bolt. The service manual specifies one of those Suzuki "special" tools to hold the damper rod in place. I remembered reading somewhere on the board that someone had jammed a broomstick or something similar in there to keep it in place. I ended up taking a wooden dowel and pointing the end a bit with a rasp. When I hammered it into the damper rod, it held tight enough to allow me to get out the bolt.

3. The manual specifies that you check your oil level with the forks reassembled, the inner tube fully compressed, springs out and the emu's in place. This is all well and good for measuring, but if you try to add 450ml of fork oil with it compressed, it WILL fill up the tube and overflow! I would highly suggested keeping the inner tube extended fully, going slow with the oil and cycling it several times to get oil worked in. Then compress the tube, make your measurement and add/remove fluid to the appropriate level. Yeah, I know. Rookie move, but it is hard to see through the funnel, which is why I didn't notice the oil about to do its thing. BTW, specified oil capacity is 491ml. I started at 450 because I figured it would be easier to add than to remove.

4. Suzuki has yet another "special" tool to get your oil level correct. I don't have that one either but I do have a turkey baster, so I measured the specified distance (4.02"/102mm iirc) from the tip of the baster tube and marked it on the side. I then dipped the baster in the fork until the tip was in the oil and my mark was aligned with the top of the fork tube. Squeeze the bulb a few times and the excess fluid is siphoned off. Double-check the level with a tape or steel rule and you're done.

5. Read the RaceTech instructions twice. Especially the part about cutting the spacers and preload. Maybe three times, just to be safe.

6. The specified torque values for the fork clamp bolts seems insanely light at 16.5ftlbs, but so far my forks haven't jumped up through the trees, so I guess they know what they're doing.

Sadly, I've only had the opportunity to take it out for a short 30 minute ride around town. Anyone native to central OK, or TX or AR knows that it's been like monsoon season around here lately so it's been pretty much garaged since Sunday. I did take a spin on the crappiest concrete road with the worst joints I could find to see how the new setup handled the bumps and it did much better than the old setup. I can't really say much about cornering composure as there aren't any twisty roads in or around Norman. I suppose that's not 100% accurate, but it's at least 87% so that part will have to wait for better weather and longer rides.

Yes, this is longer than I intended and it doesn't really paint me as the Ace Super-Tech but hopefully, someone will be able to take away something that helps when they do their fork upgrade. Ride safe.;D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
Good post! I've been there before: figuring out how to keep the damper rod from spinning and getting the fluid to the right level. This would've helped me if I had it before I did my work :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,458 Posts
...4. Suzuki has yet another "special" tool to get your oil level correct. I don't have that one either but I do have a turkey baster, so I measured the specified distance (4.02"/102mm iirc) from the tip of the baster tube and marked it on the side. I then dipped the baster in the fork until the tip was in the oil and my mark was aligned with the top of the fork tube. Squeeze the bulb a few times and the excess fluid is siphoned off. Double-check the level with a tape or steel rule and you're done...
Might want to go back in and lower the oil level to 125mm. The stock level is a little high with the better springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks, guys. Rich- if the oil is high, how does that effect fork operation and handling? I didn't notice anything terribly wrong on my test ride, but it was rather short and sweet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
oil volume is not at all accurate,stock spacers are thin steel tubing, the spacers that are in the sonic springs are thick pvc. I was wondering if the lower volume increases the oil flow speed through the emmulator valve, which might make it work better. Or would the increased oil volume be better, probabely on hard bumpy tracks, well maybe on certain back roads riding well above legal limits(who doesn't) you might actually fade the fork dampening.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
I think the key difference isn't really in oil volume, but air volume. The air acts as another spring since it's compressible, but the oil isn't. ...I think that's how it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,458 Posts
Thanks, guys. Rich- if the oil is high, how does that effect fork operation and handling? I didn't notice anything terribly wrong on my test ride, but it was rather short and sweet.
It makes the overall spring rate too progressive and too stiff, especially near the top of the travel.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top