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So I've dealt with a sticky throttle for a long time. Makes the bike a ***** to ride.
Tried all kinds of lubing and adjusting, and new cables with no luck. Disconnected the return cable today like I read on some other threads.
DAMN!!! This thing snaps shut like a freaking bear trap!
 
Picked it up from the shop. Got new Michelin Pilot Road 4's front and rear and a matching metal valve stem for the rear wheel. Front was already done because the rubber one broke and caused me to ride home on a flat tire. Hopefully these tires are as good as everyone says.
 
replaced leaking fork seals yesterday! Also sanded down rust spots on fork tubes that caused seals to break in the first place. 800,1000,2000 grit then polish. Replaced stock fork 'oil' (it was pink like hydraulics oil!) with 15W. Feels good!
 
I just picked up a 1st gen to put on the track for my teenage daughter to try out. Lots of little things to. Hopefully she keeps it on two wheels for a while.....

lol
 
A few days ago, but I changed the oil and bled the brakes, the brake fluid was only a year old. So nasty.



Old, new in the line from the caliper. You can see how clear it is right next to the reflector.


Fresh fluid in the front reservoir
 
Flushed the brake fluid front and rear yesterday, it was pretty nasty, you could feel it in the brake lever, feels smooth now. Also adjusted the chain slack, was loose enough where the backlash when letting on and off the throttle was jerky.

Today, I flushed out the coolant with some Honda Type 2.
 
Just found out the the rear subframe cracked up under the rear latch point (where the grab bar mounts). I think it's stress fractures from 30k miles of commuting with the small rack I have mounted vibrating. Dammit. Looking for a new subframe.
 
Finally heard it running again after starting an engine tear down in December and having constant delays during the rebuild.

Still need to top up the oil, bleed the coolant system, reset the TPS, check the TB balance, PUT the body back on, and go for a ride. Later I'll clean the rear brake and bleed them all.
 
Just found out the the rear subframe cracked up under the rear latch point (where the grab bar mounts). I think it's stress fractures from 30k miles of commuting with the small rack I have mounted vibrating. Dammit. Looking for a new subframe.
That sucks.
Someone on here was selling one not long ago.
 
Just found out the the rear subframe cracked up under the rear latch point (where the grab bar mounts). I think it's stress fractures from 30k miles of commuting with the small rack I have mounted vibrating. Dammit. Looking for a new subframe.
Don't they have welders out there or is it against the law to weld in California
 
Ya - I'd replace it.

There are too many cracks running too many directions to repair from what I can tell.
My thoughts too. The cracks run all the way past and around the bolt holes, so that centerpiece is basically floating. When this comes apart I would be surprised if it doesn't come out in multiple pieces.

Being that this is my main form of transportation, replacing is the best option, and I have a replacement on the way thanks to Mad8. :worship: It'll be faster to swap than to weld as well. Hopefully I'll be able to tear it down and reassemble over the upcoming holiday weekend.

My thoughts on why it failed: That rack vibrates (it's not exactly light weight.) It's been there for over 30k miles (probably closer to 40k), and has been used on a freeway that undulates sharply on a daily basis for 2 years solid - about 15 miles of harsh pavement each way. I think that this, over time, work-hardened the aluminum until it finally failed.
 
My thoughts too. The cracks run all the way past and around the bolt holes, so that centerpiece is basically floating. When this comes apart I would be surprised if it doesn't come out in multiple pieces.

Being that this is my main form of transportation, replacing is the best option, and I have a replacement on the way thanks to Mad8. :worship: It'll be faster to swap than to weld as well. Hopefully I'll be able to tear it down and reassemble over the upcoming holiday weekend.

My thoughts on why it failed: That rack vibrates (it's not exactly light weight.) It's been there for over 30k miles (probably closer to 40k), and has been used on a freeway that undulates sharply on a daily basis for 2 years solid - about 15 miles of harsh pavement each way. I think that this, over time, work-hardened the aluminum until it finally failed.
If you aren't using a rack that's cantilevered like the Givi unit, then your assessment is pretty well spot on.

Leverage is a b!tch.
 
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