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So why does it look like your bike got stuck going down a garbage chute? :lmao:
I'm PCSing back to the States in September. So, the bike got packed up and will be shipped in a container on a boat using the government's dime. Don't let the paper fool you though its strapped on all four corners. The "padding" is a back up for the straps. Much better than the horror stories I hear about american movers not even using straps.
 
Hey Mad, out of curiosity, how did the stand fail? is a t-rex?
no, we're not doing that crow-eating thing.
the stand didn't so much fail, as the combination of bike to stand didn't work so well. the pins i have for the trex were (all of them) incorrect sizes for the triple tree stem. so while i was screwing around with the forks, i ended up losing the front stand (luckily the grom is light, so i just held it up with my knee)
the pitbull weirdass old school seesaw stand had a bit longer pin so i was able to use that to finish up the project.
 
no, we're not doing that crow-eating thing.
the stand didn't so much fail, as the combination of bike to stand didn't work so well. the pins i have for the trex were (all of them) incorrect sizes for the triple tree stem. so while i was screwing around with the forks, i ended up losing the front stand (luckily the grom is light, so i just held it up with my knee)
the pitbull weirdass old school seesaw stand had a bit longer pin so i was able to use that to finish up the project.
Ah, gotchya. I was just curious because I've been kinda looking at stands again and am always curious about different brands quality. I've never seen a t-rex one in person, but I've been happy with their sliders and customer service.
 
Ah, gotchya. I was just curious because I've been kinda looking at stands again and am always curious about different brands quality. I've never seen a t-rex one in person, but I've been happy with their sliders and customer service.
this isn't even a real trex. it's the trex tree adapter in a cheapo ebay fork lift stand. trex makes damn good stands for the money.

what kinda sucks about trex stands over cheapo ebay ones though, is that you need to order pins separate and they're like $10 each. if you have multiple bikes you work on, it doesn't work so good.
 
Parked it back home after a 6 day, 2400 mile tour of the Northeast :D . Starting on a valve adjustment shortly followed by a carb sync and a few other maintenance items.
 
Dismantled things, took off some bits, loosened off some others...
Working on a sprocket change, valve adjustment, and clutch pushrod seal. One of the retainer bolts in front of the seal took me something like two hours of fighting with it to get it off... seriously Suzuki? Not enough space and too awkward for a wrench, and not a straight enough line through the crap in the way or enough room for a socket. All for one tiny little bolt. Oh well, it is off now. :)

How did some of you other fine people get that thing off? Other than a mini-breaker bar at a bad angle barely gripping the bolt, with a wrench over the bar so I could put enough pressure on the setup after a double dose of penetrating oil, of course.
 
Clean, lubed and adjusted my chain!! Also bought myself a new rear swimgarm spool stand from Harbor Freight for $40!!
 
Mounted pilot powers on the track wheels (seated the bead with a dinky 12v compressor in my apartment.....), balanced them, swapped commuter/track wheels. Safety wired some crap. Cleaned up rotors. Fresh air filter.
 
Did my first ever valve check, all were still within specs. Yay! Much less work that way haha. Installed the new rear sprocket, and cleaned the caked on crap off the hard to reach spots on the rim and swingarm. Took the clutch rod seal out, the rubber was torn and the backing was dented, little wonder why it leaked...
 
Did my first ever valve check, all were still within specs. Yay! Much less work that way haha. Installed the new rear sprocket, and cleaned the caked on crap off the hard to reach spots on the rim and swingarm. Took the clutch rod seal out, the rubber was torn and the backing was dented, little wonder why it leaked...
I need to do this soon, was it fairly easy to do?

(Please ignore previous comments of mine haha)
 
I need to do this soon, was it fairly easy to do?
Checking them isn't that hard, I only had to call my more mechanically inclined brother twice... (He is on holidays which includes a solo 2000 mile round trip on a Ninja 250). lol

I'm sure this link is kicking around here somewhere, but this made the job way easier. http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_valves/

Couple of things I did...
I took the fuel tank right off, because that is simple and makes everything easier to get at. I did not remove the rad, I did have to take the fan off of it to give it enough play to pull down past the front of the engine, but it is doable. I also found out that you may have to rotate the position an extra spin around to get the cams in the right place if you can't seem to fit any feeler gauges between the cam and bucket, as they are in right place every 2nd time around, which I was unaware of, but completely makes sense.



If you do have to change any shims, have fun with that haha. I'm really glad I didn't have to... this time. ;D
 
Fitted my SS braided brake and clutch hoses.
Brakes not bad but that brake fluid is messy stuff and being careful not to get it on the paint takes some concentration.
But....that clutch hose is a pain.
Runs down the inside of the frame and is held in place with 4, yes 4 rubber mounts that clip on to brackets all the way from the head stem down to where it comes out from under the frame.
So, best thing I found, lift the tank, remove the airbox and undo all the brackets.
Then rip out the clutch hose, put the brackets back on and then run the hose back through.
The SS hoses are all quite a bit less bulky then oem. Looks heaps better and a test ride after it all gets back together

With the airbox out I checked the STV and found some modification had taken place including the pair valve being disabled but not removed.

That will be the subject of another individual post as I have some questions for the more experience SV1000S modifiers!!!!!


PS
Had a brake bleeding pump and still pain in the butt to bleed them all

Finally got it done though


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Took of the rear cowl to examine my grab bar deletes from the outside they match perfectly and I would have never suspected they weren't OEM. But I got a complete grab bar in a box of OEM stuff taken off the bike when I bought it so I'm guessing they were not a cut and hack piece. Went to run an errand and i felt something hit me in the back. Reached around just in time to grab the rear cowl (must not have been fully latched)
before it went over the bridge and into the river. Which brings me to the ? What do most of you do with your helmet when you run into the grocery store to grab a couple of things? Helmet lock on the sv really sucks.

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A cluster of small changes.

Spacer blocks for the mirrors. They add an inch and really improve rearward vision.



Rear Set plates to move the pegs up and back.




A magnetic tank bag. A notch in the reinforcing sheet had to be cut so it could drop on the tank enough for the magnets to grab.



They work together. Moving the pegs back seats me better on the bike. The wider mirrors mean I don't have to move my head around as much. (As MUCH. It still gets moved around to see things). The tank bag can be leaned on while reaching for the bars to reduce strain. (While holding a useful amount)

Need some long rides to see how it all works. ;D



The coffee shop buzzed skull is old. :coffee:
 
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