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Tore the bike apart on Saturday. Tank, all the plastic (naked) and took it to the repair shop. Should have it back tomorrow. Ordered new tank guard, turn signals, R6 throttle, I put new foot pegs on a bit ago. Still need a fly screen and brake pedal (I'm not paying $100 for a windshield! lol). the break pedal functions it's just bent up a bit from the stupid tow truck driver (not the wreck!). I will post pics as I put it back together.
 
Installed a smoke $22 delivered - to - my - door windshield from China. Tore up the rubber grommet thingies and went to Lowes and got replacements. Otherwise it's OK. Looks good and sits higher than stock so I hope it'll divert the wind over the helmet. Loose fit where the self tapping screws attach it because there's no offset but I can live with it.
 
**** happens! Congrats on the HammerGrips, how are they? Thinking about getting some.
Hammer grips are awesome. I got some a while ago and just went to the track with them for the first and they did great. They made a big difference in helping me not move around as much while breaking, and when I was hanging off I felt like my outside leg was pretty solidly locked onto the tank with them.
Pete is a really easy guy to deal with and he's really helpful too.
 
I really want some HG's myself. Keep saying I'm going to get them, but I am having my bike painted and wheels pc'd this winter and don't want to waste a pair. I suppose I can wait a bit.
 
After I put the bike back together yesterday I got all geared up to go for a ride and.....she wouldn't start. Figured battery, even though new, so I hooked it up to the battery tender and let it charge overnight. Tried again today, and cranked strong but would not turn over. Started seeing fuel injection error on the display and feared bad things that would inevitably result in an expensive dealer visit.

Then I did a quick search on this very forum and saw a mention of a tipover sensor- that if installed upside down will prevent the bike from starting. Took the side cover off, peeked in with a flashlight and sure enough I put the sensor on inverted. Flipped it around and boom, bike started right up.

Thanks to the wealth of knowledge on this site I saved the cost of a tow and whatever the shop would have charged me to troubleshoot that dumb mistake.




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Put the pilot roads back on the street bike and pulled the track bike battery to put it on the charger. I've listed the power3s I took off in the for sale section for 170$ since they only have 600miles of street use and 1 trackday on them.
 
Tightened up the chain, and took some of the slack out of my clutch (down at the sprocket, yes ;)). It never got re-set 100% correctly after I replaced the lever, I just hadn't gotten around to it.
 
MCmotoparts adjustables and Renthal Road Ultra Lows.

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How do you like those adjustable pegs?
I've been looking into them because I'd like a little more clearance than stock pegs after taking off the feelers, but don't want to shell out for new fully adjustable rear sets just because I dont need them yet.
For roughly $40 they seem like a good option.
 
Installed new subframe. Reinstalled all tail electronics. Removed subframe, re-routed cables. Re-installed new subframe. Installed race tail. Ran into problems starting the bike. Removed race tail, checked all connections. Remembered that my clutch switch is trashed, bridged the connection, bike started. Installed replacement left rearset so I could use jackstands again.

Filled new radiator. Melted rear brake light electronics switch (WHOOPS) -- good thing it's a track bike now! Removed front and rear suspension for straightness check and refresh at the shop. Destroyed threads on cushion bolt banging it out. Drank many, many beers. All that's left is removing the handlebar, installing clip-ops, reinstalling the suspension, and replacing the tank to be ready for the track again.
 
I drained the cooling system and flushed it. Put in new coolant, mixed 50/50 with distilled water and purged the system of air bubbles. Gotta do it every two years to keep things happy.
 
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