[BANDIT LADY]

Changed radiator fluid replaced it with Engine Ice. Changed oil. This week got to change my spark plugs. I've done it before on a car ,but not bike. Found a great step- by- step vidio. I'll post how it goes.

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[Rock Dodger]

Changed the oil after a discovery. :facepalm: Hey, at least I learned something...

When I was watching for leaks after changing the oil, I found one! A GAS leak. I lifted the tank, pulled out the air box and found that the gas line from the fuel pump to the tb's was leaking on the tb side. Ordered a replacement. It will be good to get this fixed!

 

[StrigaMort]

I wheelied the **** thing! Okay, maybe wheelie is a bit overkill.

I pulled out onto a 60mph road with a car coming, when normally I'd wait. It was awesome! Usually I shift around 5k. I'm not even sure where I was shifting, I just knew I didn't want that car riding up my butt. The front tire came up on the 1-2 when I let the clutch out quick. Was kinda funny when I looked in my mirror and the car I was so worried about was a speck.

Little SV's got more nuts than I thought!

 

[HiImBrian]

This is probably caused by the plastic nub which usually sits in a hole in the bar to prevent rotation. You have two options that I know of really, 1) drill your SM2 bars so the nub sits in there, 2) get rid of the nub and rely on how tight you crank down the screw. In my experience both work well enough.

^ Yes, a little bit of tape around the bar before you put the assembly back on helps to secure it once tight.

Also I road my SV like I stole it today =)

Don't go the second route. The screw, if tightened too much, can damage the housing and even break through the top of it. To add insult to injury, the housing will rotate on the bar. Drill the bar for the nub.

The plastic nub was not there, so it must have broke at some point. I drilled out the stub and put a bolt in that and into the hole in the bar. I then applied a very healthy amount of silicone and tightened it down real good.

 

[jbswear]

When that fails, pick up a set of used control boxes on eBay. I got a set that were identical to mine (minor use obvious, but no flaws) for less than $35 shipped.

 

[slim068]

Mounted and balanced my new pilot toad 3s and did a 520 chain and sprocket conversion

 

[BKK Jack]

Put on a set of SM2 bars.

PROBLEM:
I can't seem to tighten down my throttle assembly tight enough to where it doesn't twist on the bar. Anybody have this problem and what did you do to fix it?

This is probably caused by the plastic nub which usually sits in a hole in the bar to prevent rotation. You have two options that I know of really, 1) drill your SM2 bars so the nub sits in there, 2) get rid of the nub and rely on how tight you crank down the screw. In my experience both work well enough.

He is referring to the throttle assembly, not the control box (where the kill switch is located), there is no nub to fit into the bars.

Don't go the second route. The screw, if tightened too much, can damage the housing and even break through the top of it. To add insult to injury, the housing will rotate on the bar. Drill the bar for the nub.

Again, this is not an issue with the throttle housing. There is no nub, it just pinches the bar when installed correctly. This is necessary to allow for adjusting it to match the position of the brake lever, which also isn't pinned to the bar.

Just use some tape, but if the bar is the right size you shouldn't have to. Alternatively tightening the bolts should do the trick. You have to make sure the two halves of the throttle housing mated together. Sometimes, that can be a little bit of a hassle.

 

[xecution819]

He is referring to the throttle assembly, not the control box (where the kill switch is located), there is no nub to fit into the bars.

Oops, good catch.

 

[BKK Jack]

The plastic nub was not there, so it must have broke at some point. I drilled out the stub and put a bolt in that and into the hole in the bar. I then applied a very healthy amount of silicone and tightened it down real good.

Ok, now I am confused. You said "throttle housing" in your first post. Were you referring to the throttle housing, as you stated, or the control box, as was assumed? The throttle housing is exactly that - a separate piece into which the throttle cables route to connect to the throttle tube. The control box is the box that sits inboard of the throttle housing in which the kill switch and starter button reside.

The control box uses a little pin to locate it on the bar. The throttle housing does not.

 

[snlsmith]

Finished it. Will be making the long-past-due updates on the build thread later.

Before:

After:

 

[jbswear]

He is referring to the throttle assembly, not the control box (where the kill switch is located), there is no nub to fit into the bars.



Again, this is not an issue with the throttle housing. There is no nub, it just pinches the bar when installed correctly. This is necessary to allow for adjusting it to match the position of the brake lever, which also isn't pinned to the bar.

Just use some tape, but if the bar is the right size you shouldn't have to. Alternatively tightening the bolts should do the trick. You have to make sure the two halves of the throttle housing mated together. Sometimes, that can be a little bit of a hassle.

Ok, now I am confused. You said "throttle housing" in your first post. Were you referring to the throttle housing, as you stated, or the control box, as was assumed? The throttle housing is exactly that - a separate piece into which the throttle cables route to connect to the throttle tube. The control box is the box that sits inboard of the throttle housing in which the kill switch and starter button reside.

The control box uses a little pin to locate it on the bar. The throttle housing does not.

He mentioned drilling out the spot where the nub *was*, inserting a bolt, and then aligning that bolt with the hole in the bar.

 

[Sehnsucht]

Installed Frame Motosliders as well as Swingarm Motosliders.

 

[BKK Jack]

He mentioned drilling out the spot where the nub *was*, inserting a bolt, and then aligning that bolt with the hole in the bar.

Edited and apologies for yelling.

 

[faber]

I agree, pinning it is not the right way to fix this, it should be as simple as using tape or something grippy, or replace the part.

 

[bighammer]

I understand that. I also understand that he initially mentioned the problem was with his "throttle assembly." THERE IS NO NUB/PIN FOR LOCATING THE THROTTLE ASSEMBLY ON THE BAR; IT IS LOCATED ONLY WITH PINCHING PRESSURE FROM THE TWO PINCH BOLTS. IF HE DRILLED AND BOLTED/PINNED/SILICONED HIS THROTTLE ASSEMBLY BASED ON ADVICE HE RECEIVED HERE, I'M AFRAID HE MIGHT HAVE FCKED THINGS UP BASED ON THAT BAD ADVICE.

My bar was drilled on both ends and the right side throttle/switch assembly had a locating pin just like the left side.

 

[BKK Jack]

You know what, I just looked at his profile, and he doesn't specify whether his bike is an S or N model. On the N model the throttle assembly/housing is incorporated in the switch control box. On the S it's a completely separate assembly. Why did I think I saw he had an S? :tard:

 

[mg66]

Why did I think I saw he had an S? :tard:

Because all the best people ride an 'S' obviously.

 

[BKK Jack]

Thanks, I feel better now. :thumbsup:

 

[omari]

After:

I always wondered how the 1st gen would look with a red frame... the red trellis frame screams Ducati.

Looks freakin' good!!!

 

[Zuki]

Finished it. Will be making the long-past-due updates on the build thread later.
After:

That looks great with those colours. The only thing I would suggest is to do the lower fork legs black to match the swingarm.