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striped calipers wire wooled pistons and removed seals flushed with boiling hot soapy water/cleaned with tooth brush, rinsed with cold fresh water then baked for 10min at 90c to dry them out, then polished them up with a soft cloth

fitted cobra (hel) race brake lines

primed rear foot pegs and hangers ready to me sprayed black

just about to drop the oil and replace filter
 
Took a vacation day and put on new Angel rear tire and did some much needed chain cleaning/adjust/lube and washed bike. THen went for a ride in brilliant Spring weather.

Tried that new Tirox chain cleaner. Picked up from cyclegear at ½ price. After this is used up I still got the spiffy brush and probably use the brush with kerosine. I hate chain cleaning after having a shaftie for 20 years. Chain wasn't filthy but bad by my standards after riding with salt and cinders and cr*p on the roads during winter. I believe Tirox does make a dirty job much easier and a better result.

Before cleaning with Tirox Chain Cleaner
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After cleaning with Tirox Chain Cleaner (about 15-20 mins later)
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i got tired of my bar end weights sagging, pulled them off.Can't believe that using m8 nuts for a spacer over a m6 bolt is a factory install,is it? I made an aluminum spacer with an od just under the id of the handlebar(.710) and an id just bigger than the an m6 bolt(.245) they're a little longer than the nut they replace so now the barends barely wobble before the bolt is even tightened.Replaced the phillips bolts with some allen bolts i just happen to have laying around,snugged them up done. Just writing this up ,i had the thought,"i wonder if the sloppiness of the stock set up is supposed to be there, like it might help dampen vibration,i don't think so.
 
got very ****'d off as i could not get the oil filter off, i dont have the tool so drilled a hole and sloted a bar through it but guess what the metal is so thing it just made the holes bigger so going to get the tool tomorrow PS puttinga K&N filter on so dont need the tool at all
 
If you don't have the tool, the key to any method involving puncturing the oil filter is to then use a hammer or mallet to tap it loose (unless you already tried that). If you apply steady torque you will definitely just tear through it.
 
tried that got it to turn about 1/4th then cant turn it any more as i dont have enough ground clearance

realy dident think it through but at least my new filter has a nice 14mm head on it
 
got very ****'d off as i could not get the oil filter off, i dont have the tool so drilled a hole and sloted a bar through it but guess what the metal is so thing it just made the holes bigger so going to get the tool tomorrow PS puttinga K&N filter on so dont need the tool at all
Another example illustrating the reasons for NOT going beyond hand tight. I've never had one leak and I rarely have to use any tools to remove any of my oil filters.

A large Channel-Lock pliers works pretty well on these small motorcycle filters. Best of luck with it.
 
Without any real first hand proof, I have bought into the belief, from what I have read, that K&N filters are at least subpar. I spent $10.00 for the filter tool, and can now buy better but less expensive filters, and in 3 or 4 changes, the tool will have paid for itself.

Oh, and I only use it to remove. Install by hand only.
 
Without any real first hand proof, I have bought into the belief, from what I have read, that K&N filters are at least subpar. I spent $10.00 for the filter tool, and can now buy better but less expensive filters, and in 3 or 4 changes, the tool will have paid for itself.

Oh, and I only use it to remove. Install by hand only.
I buy the K&N and change it every other change oil change so it costs half. :D
 
Another example illustrating the reasons for NOT going beyond hand tight. I've never had one leak and I rarely have to use any tools to remove any of my oil filters.

A large Channel-Lock pliers works pretty well on these small motorcycle filters. Best of luck with it.
yeh tell me about it :rolleyes: it wasnt me that put it on there but most things were over tightend on the bike like the axle bolts

and thanks off to get the tool in a bit

The K&N with the socket head on it is worth the money in so many cases! I use them a lot on my cars and sure beats using a filter strap.
exactly why i braught one, was trying to get around buying the suzuki tool (they most likley want about ÂŁ12 for it k&N filter is ÂŁ10) but obviously found its ether been on there so long that its coroded on (i think it has been on there for a long time as the oil filter its self it all rusted up nearly 50% of it is any way) and i think its been over tightend

Without any real first hand proof, I have bought into the belief, from what I have read, that K&N filters are at least subpar. I spent $10.00 for the filter tool, and can now buy better but less expensive filters, and in 3 or 4 changes, the tool will have paid for itself.

Oh, and I only use it to remove. Install by hand only.
i have heard that there air filters are below standard but not the oil filters, but as i sead above the tool alone costs more than a K&N oil filter because UK suzuki like to rip people off and so does the goverment with all this rubbish tax that they never seem to spend on what they should


hoping to get the oil done to day and hoping the rubber greace comes as well to finish off my caliper rebuild
 
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