Peeled the Stickers off the tank. Wet sanded the tank smooth. Shot some sealer on a few spots. Got to be paint ready so I can ride in all one color this summer.

 

striped calipers wire wooled pistons and removed seals flushed with boiling hot soapy water/cleaned with tooth brush, rinsed with cold fresh water then baked for 10min at 90c to dry them out, then polished them up with a soft cloth

fitted cobra (hel) race brake lines

primed rear foot pegs and hangers ready to me sprayed black

just about to drop the oil and replace filter

 

Headed out to take off the front wheel to get the new PR2 mounted tomorrow morning. I'll probably turn it on just to hear it. :fiddy:

 

I actually rode today. Went home at lunch and got the bike. Then went on a 50 mile ride for work Had to do a construction inspection one county over. Just so happens it is the nicest day of the year thus far.

 

Rims off, bikes hanging from the rafters. Now on to the next step.

 

Took a vacation day and put on new Angel rear tire and did some much needed chain cleaning/adjust/lube and washed bike. THen went for a ride in brilliant Spring weather.

Tried that new Tirox chain cleaner. Picked up from cyclegear at ½ price. After this is used up I still got the spiffy brush and probably use the brush with kerosine. I hate chain cleaning after having a shaftie for 20 years. Chain wasn't filthy but bad by my standards after riding with salt and cinders and cr*p on the roads during winter. I believe Tirox does make a dirty job much easier and a better result.

Before cleaning with Tirox Chain Cleaner

After cleaning with Tirox Chain Cleaner (about 15-20 mins later)

 

About 50 miles with my brother in law.

 

i got tired of my bar end weights sagging, pulled them off.Can't believe that using m8 nuts for a spacer over a m6 bolt is a factory install,is it? I made an aluminum spacer with an od just under the id of the handlebar(.710) and an id just bigger than the an m6 bolt(.245) they're a little longer than the nut they replace so now the barends barely wobble before the bolt is even tightened.Replaced the phillips bolts with some allen bolts i just happen to have laying around,snugged them up done. Just writing this up ,i had the thought,"i wonder if the sloppiness of the stock set up is supposed to be there, like it might help dampen vibration,i don't think so.

 

Slipped a Leovince SBK EVO II onto my ride. Sound amazing. But I can't remove the baffle....

 

got very ****'d off as i could not get the oil filter off, i dont have the tool so drilled a hole and sloted a bar through it but guess what the metal is so thing it just made the holes bigger so going to get the tool tomorrow PS puttinga K&N filter on so dont need the tool at all

 

Another example illustrating the reasons for NOT going beyond hand tight. I've never had one leak and I rarely have to use any tools to remove any of my oil filters.

A large Channel-Lock pliers works pretty well on these small motorcycle filters. Best of luck with it.

 

If you don't have the tool, the key to any method involving puncturing the oil filter is to then use a hammer or mallet to tap it loose (unless you already tried that). If you apply steady torque you will definitely just tear through it.

 

tried that got it to turn about 1/4th then cant turn it any more as i dont have enough ground clearance

realy dident think it through but at least my new filter has a nice 14mm head on it

 

The K&N with the socket head on it is worth the money in so many cases! I use them a lot on my cars and sure beats using a filter strap.

 

Synced carbs, installed PL8 light Led bolt, finished cleaning up PO wiring hack job.

 

got my first bike (03' SV650s) and rode it around the block, and to my friends house. then drove it home while it was snowing..

 

riding it tonight!

 

Without any real first hand proof, I have bought into the belief, from what I have read, that K&N filters are at least subpar. I spent $10.00 for the filter tool, and can now buy better but less expensive filters, and in 3 or 4 changes, the tool will have paid for itself.

Oh, and I only use it to remove. Install by hand only.

 

I buy the K&N and change it every other change oil change so it costs half.

 

well i've rode it for the past 4 days! wiped her down today, lubed the chain 3 days ago. and today i bought an AGV 1 piece suit with pucks and a dainese spine protector.

 

Drained a little bit of oil, seems i overfilled her when i did my last oil change.

Put on my 'new' left side turn signal, and yes people, there are differences.
They do have a left and right side (white numbers are supposed to be down), and they do have differences between years. My 07 has a sunk 'base' for the stems, new one doesn't.

Nothing some gasket won't fix though

 

CBR rear wheel with a 180 tire.

I should have cleaned it when I had the tire off, but was too excited

 

CBR rear wheel with a 180 tire.

I should have cleaned it when I had the tire off, but was too excited

When I read "CBR," I got excited thinking you had mounted up a recent CBR wheel. While it looks alright, I was disappointed to see yet another F3 wheel... and a 180 mounted on it. Oh well, if you like it, I guess that's all that matters. I just can't get over the non-matching wheels, mainly.

 

I picked up a Pitbull rear stand and spools for $75, kerosene for the chain, and chain lube. Clearly, the next task is to clean and tighten the chain. A washing is also in order.

 

Went on another great ride. The weather is kicking ass in Nor-Cal right now.

http://dhsorrell.wordpress.com/2010/03/20/insect-bullet-wound-and-losing-my-alien-blood/

 

Bought my second SV today after I got my insurance settlement on the first one.

 

Installed Steve's aTRE.
Installed Mark's Quick Release Tank pin kit.

Added another 100 miles to the clock.

 

Took apart the rear end to install a full exhaust, new chain and sprockets, and a Penske double clicker. I love my baxley wheel chock. I don't know how I lived without it.

Penske