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Discussion Starter #1
UPS found my door today. I had ordered SS braided brake lines, front and rear, from GALFER. They came with GALFER brake pads. My question is, should I use them? Or should I order some OE Suzuki brake pads instead? Or something different all together? I am a somewhat indifferent rider, and might not notice a difference anyway. But I do not want to replace my OE pads with an inferior product. Has anyone tried GALFER? What is your preference? Thanks-
 

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it's really a brand preference. some will say Vesrah or EBC. but galfer makes top of the line rotors, this much i know.

btw, when you ordered the SS lines, did they 'throw in' the pads free of charge? what site did you order them through?


here's a breakdown of some galfer pads:
Galfer Black Pads (GG rated)

GG rated pads out-perform most original equipment pads (which are usually G-rated only) by maintaining functionality at temperatures as high as 700 degrees. They offer extreme versatility with the ability to be used on both front and rea. These Semi-Metallic & Carbon pads offer great longevity while limiting rotor wear. These pads will give you a strong progressive feel allowing for a controlled braking modulation.

Composition: Semi-metal, Carbon Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.

Galfer Green Pads (GG rated)

The Kevlar-organic Green pads offer powerful, initial bite time after time with no fade. The versatility of these pads is unmatched. They can adjust to abrupt temperature and moisture changes and take little time to recover between braking. They can be used in all types of riding whether it is street, dirt, race, and any combination of each. These are better for an aggressive rider, since these offer one or two finger stopping power. For many riders, the ideal combination is using Galfer Green in the front with Galfer Black in the rear. If rotor wear is of great concern, the Galfer green would be an optimum choice. They won't last quite as long as the black, OEM or the HH pads, but their soft, organic material composition causes minimal damage to the rotor surface.

Composition: Kevlar, Ceramics, Basalt Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface (be extra diligent in cleaning if following an HH (Sintered) compound) & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.

Galfer HH Pads (HH rated)

This sintered metal & ceramic composition allows for the ultimate friction, making their stopping power unmatched. It will provide instant powerful braking intensity in any weather condition or speed. The ceramic coating on these pads disperses the heat evenly, keeping the brake fluid temperature lower. This minimizes brake fade. These pads also have a longer life span than most other pads because of the high metallic content. These HH pads are rougher on rotor surfaces but work with optimum performance on Galfer Brake Rotors and other high-carbon content discs. Despite this assumption, these pads have remained popular with the aggressive off-road and street riders and are supplied to many race teams.

Composition: Sintered Metal, Advanced Ceramics, Carbon Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.
 

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thread jumping----

How often should the pads and rotors be changed mileage-wise?

Also, curious on brand opinions.
 

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thread jumping----

How often should the pads and rotors be changed mileage-wise?

Also, curious on brand opinions.
it really depends on your style of riding.

order of precedence follows: brake fluid, pads, rotors.

Rotors are really the last thing to be replaced unless you've been going to the track a lot on HH pads or higher. you can visually inspect for pads for wear and replace them when needed. remove the bolts holding the caliper on the outer tube of the fork and check where your pads stand.

but to answer your question, i ride street with spirited weekends and have put on about 13K miles on my bike since last summer and haven't changed my pads yet. they have plenty of life left in them. i've changed fluid 3x since i've had the bike.

i haven't had any practical experience with brands, but i heard nothing but good words about galfer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't think my pads have EVER been changed. (In 10-15k miles) I usually take it to a dealership to service about every other summer. I change my own oil once or twice a year. I ordered the kit from
http://www.starcycle.com/
Yeah, they did 'throw them in' for 'free'.
The packaging is confusing. It appears to be in French, English, and German. It also says: Approved by TUV W. Germany.
I will most likely pay the dealership to install this stuff for me, and I'm sure they will try and sell me on Suzuki pads.
 

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I don't think my pads have EVER been changed. (In 10-15k miles) I usually take it to a dealership to service about every other summer. I change my own oil once or twice a year. I ordered the kit from
http://www.starcycle.com/
Yeah, they did 'throw them in' for 'free'.
The packaging is confusing. It appears to be in French, English, and German. It also says: Approved by TUV W. Germany.
I will most likely pay the dealership to install this stuff for me, and I'm sure they will try and sell me on Suzuki pads.
do it yourself! its not that hard. i did mine at a SLOW pace in a few hours and that included going to 2 auto parts stores for more washers since i messed a few up.
 

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do it yourself! its not that hard. i did mine at a SLOW pace in a few hours and that included going to 2 auto parts stores for more washers since i messed a few up.
+1 and one of these help:

http://www.pitposse.com/mibrblkit.html

i was clueless before, had no idea of anything on my bike, but a friend showed me and it's been cake since.

check the regional sections here for the area you live around. i'm sure you could meet up with someone who knows. save yourself some $$$!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is that little brake bleeder kit bike specific? Or can I get one from Schucks/Auto Zone?
You guys have given me confidence, think I just will install this stuff myself. Is there anything I need to be carefull of, specifically, when swapping brake lines? (Other than keeping it away from painted plastics?) -Thanks
 

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UPS found my door today. I had ordered SS braided brake lines, front and rear, from GALFER. They came with GALFER brake pads. My question is, should I use them? Or should I order some OE Suzuki brake pads instead? Or something different all together? I am a somewhat indifferent rider, and might not notice a difference anyway. But I do not want to replace my OE pads with an inferior product. Has anyone tried GALFER? What is your preference? Thanks-

:) Hi, you can be 100% sure that the Galfer Pads are not inferior to your OEM Pads.

Galfer is all about Brake Pads, SS Lines, and Rotors,

Go ahead and install them, they will serve you well, and the price on the promotional special with your SS Lines was right,

You must have received the free black semi-metallic pads,

That special with Galfer is over now, for those wondering,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 

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Is that little brake bleeder kit bike specific? Or can I get one from Schucks/Auto Zone?
You guys have given me confidence, think I just will install this stuff myself. Is there anything I need to be carefull of, specifically, when swapping brake lines? (Other than keeping it away from painted plastics?) -Thanks
the vacuum bleeder will fit the 'nipple' on most bikes. follow the instructions carefully and take your time. since you're changing lines out, gravity will have to take over. just have some patience, the fluid will eventually move down.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was technically past their 'special offer' window. I think they must just give them out while they've got the stock or something. Should I go ahead and swap them myself? I'm still going back and forth on my resolution. The packaging says the lines should only be swapped by an automotive professional.
 

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I was technically past their 'special offer' window. I think they must just give them out while they've got the stock or something. Should I go ahead and swap them myself? I'm still going back and forth on my resolution. The packaging says the lines should only be swapped by an automotive professional.

:) No, it was part of a special, they don't just hand them out, As an Authorized Galfer dealer I just got off the phone with them, The special which was for the Black Pads.

As for the install, You can go ahead and do it your self, it is not a difficult job, and it is good experience,


Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, they're the black ones. Surprisingly small. I picked up a book with a good 'BRAKES' chapter, and it's looking easier. I think I'll just get that bleeder kit and dig into it. Thanks everyone for the confidence.
Oh, I think the special only included the front pads(?). Do I need to replace the rear at the same time? Thanks.
 

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Yeah, they're the black ones. Surprisingly small. I picked up a book with a good 'BRAKES' chapter, and it's looking easier. I think I'll just get that bleeder kit and dig into it. Thanks everyone for the confidence.
Oh, I think the special only included the front pads(?). Do I need to replace the rear at the same time? Thanks.
only if they are worn...
 

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Galfer Brake Pads are Great,

only if they are worn...
:) Exactly, I was just about to say that Pat,

And yes, when the special was available, it only applied to the black pads, and only for the front brakes,

If anyone is looking for the Superb Galfer Brake Pads for our bikes, I have lots, in stock and ready to ship right away,

Email me at [email protected]

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair,
 

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changing brake pads and lines are easy. its one of the simpler maintenance tasks to do on a bike.
a few tips others haven't mentioned yet....
when you start to pull things off, you will most likely spill some brake fluid. be sure to clean it off your bike quickly, and i dont mean within 15 seconds quickly, i mean before you move onto the next step, make sure its cleaned off. it'll eat away your paint
clean your rotors!! take some finer grit sand paper around the rotors, then brake cleaner with a clean rag.
when you finish the install, a proper bedding in(although not necessary) is recommended.
mitvac, +1, makes it a ton easier.

btw, lol @ svstryker, mr how to mechanic now. i remember when you literally knew nothing about bike mechanics. and i had to convince you to do your brakes yourself instead of spending money at the shop. good to see you sharing the knowledge.
 

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changing brake pads and lines are easy. its one of the simpler maintenance tasks to do on a bike.
a few tips others haven't mentioned yet....
when you start to pull things off, you will most likely spill some brake fluid. be sure to clean it off your bike quickly, and i dont mean within 15 seconds quickly, i mean before you move onto the next step, make sure its cleaned off. it'll eat away your paint
clean your rotors!! take some finer grit sand paper around the rotors, then brake cleaner with a clean rag.
when you finish the install, a proper bedding in(although not necessary) is recommended.
mitvac, +1, makes it a ton easier.
and when cirsory says quickly get the brake fluid off, you shoudl take it as, DON"T spill it. I use one of those blue paper towels and wrap it around the resovior to catch anything that might come out or spill

btw, lol @ svstryker, mr how to mechanic now. i remember when you literally knew nothing about bike mechanics. and i had to convince you to do your brakes yourself instead of spending money at the shop. good to see you sharing the knowledge.
hey, thats me too! this site has its ups and downs, but the people that help, REALLY help.
 

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and when cirsory says quickly get the brake fluid off, you shoudl take it as, DON"T spill it. I use one of those blue paper towels and wrap it around the resovior to catch anything that might come out or spill
i try to keep it from spilling, but sometimes it just happens.
 

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I've tried the galfer GG pads and I absolutely hated them. They felt wooden and gave up stopping power over the stock tokico HH pads. If you are going to buy replacement pads, I highly recommend going with HH.
 
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