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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok well as many of us agree that the stock fender is a monstrosity I have decided to make my own diy fender eliminator. One because I am mildly mechanically inclined and two I am cheap. After reading post from others and being inspired I have decided to do this myself. However, I do not want to cut any of my original parts and believe that I can simply make a bracket out of aluminum or stainless to do the trick and look good. I have already removed the old fender thanks a bunch to another post here by SecretMachine! First I will make a template out of cardboard, test fit it, then get some steel and start forming. I'll try and take some good pics along the way and if it works out and looks good I will make a parts and price list along with any dimensions so anyone else can make their own and benefit from my experience. Unfortunately I can't post pics yet so I will be postwhoring on the intro forum to get my status upgraded. I expect this will take all weekend as I am unmotivated and lazy and my creativity only comes in short bursts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well the project is slowly moving along. Taking some time to decide how to make the eliminator and avoid the gaps from other kits. Unfortunately I am not very artistically gifted so this is rough territory for me. But my design so far makes use of original parts with only a small sheet of steel and two bolts and shims. Need to make another trip to the hardware store for the shims and bolts tho so that may slow me down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok I'm done and I took some pics on the way. Hope they look good. Took quite a bit of test fit, remove, alter, test fit, remove, repeat, yada yada yada. It is mostly finished. Couple of spacers that I need to buy or make, using nuts in the mean time. Worked out pretty good, and was really cheap. Have to take a tutorial on the whole photobucket and link thing and then I will put the pics up and all that was involved.
 

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When posting pictures, use the links with the
tags to imbed the pictures into the forum.


Why did you not want to cut down the stock fender? I cut the stock fender, used about $5.00 in bolts, nuts and spacers and reused some of the stock brackets. Simple, doesnt leak, and IMO there is little to no value for the stock stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After test fitting the template on the bike I cut it out of 26 guage stamped steel that I got at Lowes for about $4. Now this is pretty thin steel so where the flap folds down for the light and plate attachments I used two "L" brackets as supports. about $1.18 at Lowes.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I drilled two holes for the factory plate light and used a hole saw to make the opening for the light. Two nuts were used as shims temporarily for fitting. As I don't have all the proper shims I am using simple stove bolt nuts as shims in the mean time. Honestly they work just as good though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Now I have taken the turn signals and attached them to the bracket that had the reflectors on it. On this piece I did have to open up the holes a little bit for the wire to pass through and drilled two new holes for the signal studs to attach to. I also put silicone in the signals around the wire to keep moisture out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
In this project other than a peice of sheet steel, one zip tie, two L brackets, four bolts and some nuts, and a dab of silicone everything I used came off the old fender. These are the parts that I didn't use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And here is the finished project. Not too bad, I'm pleased and other than couple hours of time it cost less than ten bucks total. Sorry the pictures are soo crappy, not sure why. If anyone has any questions or I left something out let me know and I'll be glad to help. Also while I was doing this I made a bracket out of the spare sheet steel to secure the rear seat without the handle piece. I think my next project will be to get ahold of a seat cowl and fab up some pieces to fill in the gaps made when the rear seat handle is removed and maybe make a mold for making the seat cowls and inserts out of fiberglass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another angle. Oh by the way, the gap where the pieces come together will be filled with a strip of neoprene-like foam rubber. I used my last piece under the fuse box tho so I will have to get some more. It fills the void perfectly and it keeps any moisture out and looks really good.
 
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