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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've hade a lot of battery/starter problems with my 1st gen. When the battery was drained while riding I realised it was generator problems. The r/r was dead which I have replaced now. So I think the generator problems have been sorted.
Now the battery wont run the starter even when fully charged, I guess its because it has taken damage from being deep discharged a few times so I bought a new battery. Before I put it in I have a question.

I wanted to make sure the bike doesn't drain the battery when ignition is off, so I disconnected the negative lead and didnt get any amp reading between it and the battery negative at all, so i guess that is good. But if I measure voltage it says 13v. Why do I get a voltage reading when ignition is off? Is that correct?
 

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I've hade a lot of battery/starter problems with my 1st gen. When the battery was drained while riding I realised it was generator problems. The r/r was dead which I have replaced now. So I think the generator problems have been sorted.
Now the battery wont run the starter even when fully charged, I guess its because it has taken damage from being deep discharged a few times so I bought a new battery. Before I put it in I have a question.

I wanted to make sure the bike doesn't drain the battery when ignition is off, so I disconnected the negative lead and didnt get any amp reading between it and the battery negative at all, so i guess that is good. But if I measure voltage it says 13v. Why do I get a voltage reading when ignition is off? Is that correct?
Did you go with the much better Mosfet R/R? The original design is poor and problematic.

There's a good chance the Starter Relay is the problem.

13V from the battery is good, but you really need to know what the voltage is under load. Comparing the standing voltage to the voltage when you turn on the ignition, then again when the starter is cranking, will tell you if the battery is good. With the starter cranking you should still get over 10V.

The Starter Relays (and R/R) are a typical problem for the 1st Gens. Aftermarket ones can be junk. OEM is best, but much more expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Well, the voltage is good but the battery doesn't seem to be able to give enough current to start the engine.
The r/r I got is a bit bigger than the original one and was what the mechanic suggested. Quite expensive I think. 😬
The question here is if I really should see a voltage reading between the battery negative and the disconnected negative lead when the ignition is off.
 

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Check the voltage as your are pushing the start button. Shouldn't drop lower than 10v. It should recover to full voltage pretty quick too after you stop. Easy load test.......
 

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The question here is if I really should see a voltage reading between the battery negative and the disconnected negative lead when the ignition is off.
Yes, full battery voltage will show between the battery(-) terminal and the disconnected negative lead (that is a normal reading though not a very informative test). This is due to the always-on clock circuit in the gauge forming a complete circuit, along with the voltmeter being a high resistance component when inserted in series.

As mentioned, the key thing to look at is battery voltage at the battery terminals while the battery is under load (while holding the starter button pressed). 10v under 60A starter motor load is fine. 9.5v is still in acceptable range, less than 9v while cranking means the battery is failing or is discharged.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your replies guys! Good to know that

The bike behaves like the battery is discharged. It just clicks or gives me one or two revolutions even on a fully charged battery.

Since it just clicked sometimes I thought it was the starter. So I replaced it.
Since it feels like it doesn't get enough juice I replaced the battery.

Nothing changed. With a fully charged battery it still just sounds like the battery is dead when I try to start it. The starter goes for a second or two (slowly) but then it feels like it doesn't have enough power to turn the engine.

What should be my next move? Cleaning connectors? Starter relay? More expensive battery?
 

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...What should be my next move? Cleaning connectors? Starter relay? More expensive battery?
Measure voltage at the battery terminals while holding the starter button. What do you read?

That will tell you where the problem is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update. I got a Yuasa battery instead of the cheap ones I've tried earlier. It starts the bike but it is still not very convincing, more like Monday morning before coffee.

When I bought the battery the guy who sold it told me to measure the voltage to make sure it is charging, and it is so that's cool.

He also told me to measure AC on the battery when the engine is running. If that shows more than just a few tenths, like closer to 1.0 or more, the charging was bad he said. It showed 30 on my bike. I've never heard of this test before and I cant find anything like it when googling, what is it supposed to show? That the rectifier is bad? The R/R is brand new.
 

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If you are still having issues you need to get a volt meter and isolate the problem.

A new battery isn't necessarily fully charged - you need to confirm. You want to know the voltage before and during cranking to confirm the battery is fully functional.

You can compare the voltage directly from the battery to the voltage the starter is receiving to determine if there is resistance between them, which would mean a Starter Relay or connection problem.
 
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