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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it ok to run two different spring rates in my forks? I'm 185lbs with gear on and currently running .95KG springs. I'm not using all my travel and thinking of using a .90 in one leg and a .95 in the other leaving me with a .925.
 

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I have a dear friend (who is a great tinkerer with suspensions) that owns a gen. 1 SV and is using since years one stock OEM and one aftermarket kit spring.
 

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I've been doing that lately on my 250. Works great. A former Honda mechanic friend of mine told me that the Valkyries from the '90s only had one spring in the front forks. :unsure:
 

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Is it ok to run two different spring rates in my forks? I'm 185lbs with gear on and currently running .95KG springs. I'm not using all my travel and thinking of using a .90 in one leg and a .95 in the other leaving me with a .925.
You can, but that's not a big enough change to feel. Try a 0.85.
Is this for street use? How close are you to using all the travel? You don't want to use all it very often.
 

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You can, but that's not a big enough change to feel. Try a 0.85.
Is this for street use? How close are you to using all the travel? You don't want to use all it very often.
I would have thought the same thing, but I just went from .90 to .95 springs because I was using ALL of the travel on my .90s to being a little surprised at how stiff the .95s were. The amount of travel is key though like you said, and the .95s are more in line with what I'm aiming for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can, but that's not a big enough change to feel. Try a 0.85.
Is this for street use? How close are you to using all the travel? You don't want to use all it very often.
I didn't realize I could mix spring rates in my forks, learning!
This is for street, I have 3/4" to 1" of travel not being used. Maybe I should have purchased the .85.
I was thinking if the .90 is not enough I'll buy another. 90 and that may be perfect.
 

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I would have thought the same thing, but I just went from .90 to .95 springs because I was using ALL of the travel on my .90s to being a little surprised at how stiff the .95s were. The amount of travel is key though like you said, and the .95s are more in line with what I'm aiming for.
Sag, air gap and oil weight/height the same?
 

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I adjusted my oil height after the swap but it hardly changed between spring sets. Weight remained 10. I need to revisit sag as my weight has changed since originally setting up my .90s, but my travel is right on now. I used to have about the width of a zip tie left after a rip, now I have maybe 1/2".
 

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Is it ok to run two different spring rates in my forks? I'm 185lbs with gear on and currently running .95KG springs. I'm not using all my travel and thinking of using a .90 in one leg and a .95 in the other leaving me with a .925.
I don't think I would do, but yours are different enough to do any harm.

Having said that you got me thinking there may be an advantage to running two "different" springs even if the same rate, maybe one with thinner spring wire and less coils.
They would each have a different resonance and pogoing would be much less likely and maybe less dampening required and cooler oil in the fork. Less variation between cold and hot

Just a thought anyone want to try it.?
 

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When you guys do these spring swaps or emulators, or any other fork maintenance/upgrade, are there any specific tooling or jigs required? The only step I read on the Traxxion site and the "change your fork oil in 15 minutes" post that seemed to imply you need something specific was the "compress the springs" step, but it wasn't clear in either case if any tooling was required or suggested.

Thanks, and sorry if this is thread hijacking the topic.
 

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When you guys do these spring swaps or emulators, or any other fork maintenance/upgrade, are there any specific tooling or jigs required? The only step I read on the Traxxion site and the "change your fork oil in 15 minutes" post that seemed to imply you need something specific was the "compress the springs" step, but it wasn't clear in either case if any tooling was required or suggested.

Thanks, and sorry if this is thread hijacking the topic.
Short answer: no. Especially on the SV, it's very simple. My Ninja is a little finicky as the design of the fork cap doesn't use threads but a snap ring, but even that isn't bad once you get the hang of it. Damper rod forks are caveman simple, actually. It's the tuning that involves voodoo.
Oh, and emulators are stone simple to install too. There's not much to them.
 

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Short answer: no. Especially on the SV, it's very simple. My Ninja is a little finicky as the design of the fork cap doesn't use threads but a snap ring, but even that isn't bad once you get the hang of it. Damper rod forks are caveman simple, actually. It's the tuning that involves voodoo.
Oh, and emulators are stone simple to install too. There's not much to them.
Thanks. Now buying a proper spring for my weight seems less daunting.
 

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I don't think I would do, but yours are different enough to do any harm.

Having said that you got me thinking there may be an advantage to running two "different" springs even if the same rate, maybe one with thinner spring wire and less coils.
They would each have a different resonance and pogoing would be much less likely and maybe less dampening required and cooler oil in the fork. Less variation between cold and hot

Just a thought anyone want to try it.?
Methinks a physics refresher is in order. :)
And perhaps some knowledge of the limits on spring design.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would have thought the same thing, but I just went from .90 to .95 springs because I was using ALL of the travel on my .90s to being a little surprised at how stiff the .95s were. The amount of travel is key though like you said, and the .95s are more in line with what I'm aiming for.
Your right, went for a ride this afternoon and see/feel a significant difference, feels much better. Looking forward to this weekend where I can really test it. So far very happy with .95/.90 setup!
 
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