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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have the following issue


The sprocet teeth are not in the center of the chain rollers they are touching the left side of the chain. How do I fix this issue? I adjusted my chain slack and since then this has happened. Which chain adjuster nut should I adjust left or right? Could the sprocket be twisted?
 

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I don't see an issue......i believe your overthinking it.
 

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Measure from center of swingarm pivot to center of axle on each side is an easy and accurate way to align rear wheel.

Also make the pic a tad smaller plz
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did measure it its the same value +/- 1,2 mm... so... there is no problem? I thought the sprocket teeth should be exactly in the middle of the chain rollers.
 

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I thought the sprocket teeth should be exactly in the middle of the chain rollers.
^ This is where you are overthinking it. In the middle as much a possible, but not rubbing the links. Sprockets are not machined to 100% perfection.

If your measurements, as suggested by mg66, are spot on, then you should be fine. IMHO, 2mm is too much variance to me for alignment.
 

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I did measure it its the same value +/- 1,2 mm... so... there is no problem? I thought the sprocket teeth should be exactly in the middle of the chain rollers.
Are you sure you measured from the center of the pivot? It helps to have someone hold the end of the tape at the center because it is easy to move a bit when you are doing it alone. Are you sure it wasn't that way before you adjusted it?
 

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you're ok, don't sweat it. chain will be worn out and replaced in 16000-20000 miles anyway. it wears out due to the stress on the pins, for proof cut open an old one and see where the wear marks are.
 

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Which chain adjuster nut should I adjust left or right? Could the sprocket be twisted?
You need to adjust both the same amount, assuming it was aligned right beforehand. Not clear if you know this, because later you are saying you measured the alignment.
 

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If your measurements, as suggested by mg66, are spot on, then you should be fine. IMHO, 2mm is too much variance to me for alignment.
Agreed! I use a dial micrometer like a depth gauge, and get mine within .001". 1.2mm is almost .050"....which is a LOT. Even IF the sprocket teeth don't change where they live in the chain....I think the bike would ride straighter and better with the wheel pointing straight.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't see how one can find the center of the swing arm pivot (especially the right side) with any degree of accuracy.
I have to agree - both foot peg and stock exhaust are in the way bending the tape measure - making it inaccurate. I use a piece of string (not strechy). I place one end with a little knot in the bang middle of the swingarm and the other to the center of the axle nut - I take measurements to where it reaches mark the spot on the string then go to the other side. I also used a tape measure. I am not sure if the axle was properly aligned before.
When adjusting the axle I used 3 methods the notches on the swingarm, tape measurer and the string thing + eyballing if the chain is straight. Getting it perfect is so frikin difficult.
 

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One quick way to check if the chain is running straight is to use a straight edge held against the top side of the rear sprocket. See if the chain runs parallel to the straight edge. I've found that this method is only accurate if the axle nut is tight.

Also, make sure that you engage the raised surfaces on the sprocket, so that you get a good reading.
 

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I like that lil tool where did you get it from???
He listed the link where you can buy it from, and it also clearly says Motion Pro on it, I bet you could find it in less than 10 seconds of googling.

For fun I went to google and typed in 08-0048 (as clearly seen on the picture) and the first link was this tool.
 

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I don't see how one can find the center of the swing arm pivot (especially the right side) with any degree of accuracy.
The 1K's are easier, they have exhaust smacked right in the way of both sides, so they both should be off equally. :icon_biggrin:


Just food for thought, I also use an 8mm hex key and place it in the bottom, between the chain and rear sprocket, and roll the tire until it is wedged. It forces the tire back to it's tightest point so the axle can be tightened down without moving any.
 

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The 1K is easier (I think) to measure the axle position with its' different adjuster setup. The depth gauge measuring from the end of the swing-arm to the adjuster block is consistent and accurate. You 650 guys might have to improvise.:)
 

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^ Atta boy! You tell 'em Rob! :icon_biggrin: They should have gotten a 1K. :evil6:
 
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