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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm trying to complete the ZX-10r swap on my gen1 sv650 (I've read many forums about how this was probably the wrong shock to get due to fitting or cutting issues, but that aside) I can't seem to get the dogbones off to even access the bolts to undo my stock shock.

I've been following:
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80387

as a general reference as I figured the process for accessing the shock should be able about the same for all bikes.

I currently have the tail suspended in midair (without a rear stand [is this my mistake?]) and I've been hitting the bolts with an impact driver, but it's not budging in the least. I've sprayed it down with WD-40 in hopes it would loosen up but no luck.

Anyone have any suggestions? Am I still putting tension on the shock somehow to where it's locking down?

Thanks in advance guys
 

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From my limited experience, it's just a matter of having the bike stable and putting so much torque on it that you feel something is going to break. Then it gives way and you feel a certain pride in knowing that between the bike and you, you are the master!
Really, though, it's been just using 6 point sockets on both sides and just putting a bunch of torque on it. They are awkward to get to and once there, awkward to undo. Use pb blaster not wd40. Team up with gravity and you will win.


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Make sure the nut isn't spinning. They usually are tight, but I've always used hand tools for ones put on by the factory. The backyard mechanics tend to over tighten them.

Do yourself a favor and insert the bolts from the shifter side after you do your shock swap. Most exhausts need to come off when you have the bolts on the right side. So this will save you work down the road.
 

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Make sure the nut isn't spinning. They usually are tight, but I've always used hand tools for ones put on by the factory. The backyard mechanics tend to over tighten them.

Do yourself a favor and insert the bolts from the shifter side after you do your shock swap. Most exhausts need to come off when you have the bolts on the right side. So this will save you work down the road.
Never ha this issue, but I will keep in mind.


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+1 for PB Blaster. Let it soak for a day, then spay it again. Let it soak for a day, then spray it again. Repeat until you can get the nut off.
 

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Do not suspend the bike while you are trying to loosen anything. Break the nuts free and then lift the rear of the bike to take the pressure off the bolts so that you can slide them out. As others have said try PB Blaster and if you have a propane torch heat them (after the PB has dried). I ended up cutting mine off and buying new OEM bolts because I stripped mine.
 

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Once you get the nut off, you need to take tension off the linkage by lifting the tire a bit with a crowbar or such to remove the bolt easily. Suspend bike so rear tire is quarter inch off ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for the advice

Make sure the nut isn't spinning. They usually are tight, but I've always used hand tools for ones put on by the factory. The backyard mechanics tend to over tighten them.

Do yourself a favor and insert the bolts from the shifter side after you do your shock swap. Most exhausts need to come off when you have the bolts on the right side. So this will save you work down the road.
I made sure the Nut isn't spinning, I think it's just caked on tight... That's a great Idea for swapping the side. I'll be sure to do that.

Do not suspend the bike while you are trying to loosen anything. Break the nuts free and then lift the rear of the bike to take the pressure off the bolts so that you can slide them out. As others have said try PB Blaster and if you have a propane torch heat them (after the PB has dried). I ended up cutting mine off and buying new OEM bolts because I stripped mine.
Once you get the nut off, you need to take tension off the linkage by lifting the tire a bit with a crowbar or such to remove the bolt easily. Suspend bike so rear tire is quarter inch off ground.
I'm gonna un-suspend it and hit it with some PB Blaster before trying the impact driver again. Sounds like logical solution, and it might've been my problem that it was up already. I'll resuspend it after the nut is loose.

I tried to do it from the bolt side which probably wasn't the smartest. I just really didn't want to take the exhaust off.

Thanks again guys, I'll update you after tonight.
 

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Don't think you got my point ... with tension on linkage with bike on ground or suspended, it is exerting compressive forces on bolt shank. Remove the nut. Then put a lever under the tire and lift slightly to slip bolt out.

If you got to pound to get that bolt out, you are doing something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Your impact will be more effective on the nut side. Other than that PB blaster is great stuff.
I ended up ditching the impact driver which was a much better decision. I set up a socket on a breaker bar on the nut side with a wrench holding the bolt still and ended up getting them apart using my legs. BUT the PB Blaster was probably the main reason I was even able to do that. Some awesome stuff :]

Don't think you got my point ... with tension on linkage with bike on ground or suspended, it is exerting compressive forces on bolt shank. Remove the nut. Then put a lever under the tire and lift slightly to slip bolt out.

If you got to pound to get that bolt out, you are doing something wrong.
You're completely right, I did miss the point until AFTER I got the bolt out. I wish I read your new comment before I worked on it, but it made a lot more sense after the rear swing arm dropped with the bolt out. Luckily it was barely off the ground. I used my rear stand and had someone leverage up to where the bolt was loose and slid it right back in.

Good News though is the swap was a complete success. I'm a little confused what everyone was saying about clearance issues, but it might just be I'm doing something wrong? It looks like the ZX-10r shock fits right in after I pushed the battery down a little bit. I have a solid 3/8" between the shock reservoir and the battery, and from what I read, when in tension they should move further apart right? (I would like to upload pictures but don't quite see how...)

Overall a fun experience. I just can't believe the groddiness that was down there keeping the bolts so tight together. Took this opportunity to kerosene clean everything.
 

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Alls good! :thumbsup:
 
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