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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Trail Tech Vapor Install Help

Im working on installing my Vapor gauges onto my 2001 SVs. I need some help... I've dug through svrider for a few hours reading all of the posts about the install, but unfortunately non of them are 100% clear. (Im sure its clear and easy to some -- but im just not following.)

Hopefully with the help of you guys - i can document my install to the "T" and we can create a master install guide. Wire to wire.

Here are the post that I found:

http://www.svrider.com/tips/svs-wiring/SV650S-E03-wiring.JPG (wiring diagram)

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=77835&highlight=vapor+gauge

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=53191&highlight=trail+tech&page=3

http://forum.svrider.com/showpost.php?p=824600&postcount=19

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=45272&highlight=vapor&page=6

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=62441&highlight=vapor+gauge

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=80212

My big question is where to begin? What wires from the stock harness should i be wiring into? Below is a labeled photo.



Thanks
Jason
 

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So you don't have in install manual that came with the vapor??
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If you look at the last thread you linked, I have a diagram posted on the second page with all the warning light wiring info incl OEM wire colors . Get those wires at B7.
Thanks. The more I look at it, the more I start to understand it.
Now, in A1-A4 there are 8 wires. But in the extension that is included, only 6 wires are exposed. Why is this? Should I use the extension (A5-A10) to wire into the harness? Or should I wire A1-A4 directly to the B7 wires?

Im confused as to B7 has 16 wires going into it; If i cut the harness - what do i do with the exposed remaining wires? I would love to remove the unneeded wires (Speedo, Tach, etc.. from what vapor provided) but I dont want to screw anything up from removing them...
 

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Just follow the wires out of the bike side of the harness to plug into.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK - So I hooked everything up like the link bow says: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=80212&page=3

I can get the turn signals to work properly, but the NEUTRAL, OIL, FUEL all light up and stay on. THey are all hooked up to the O/G. Any thoughts why they are all staying lit up?

THe confusing part is that if you look at the diagram above and the wire scheme - it says Neutral should be BL/B -- not O/G.

Also -- in the diagram above, in the left box, whats the difference between the left column and the right column? (IE: NEUTRAL is 2,13)

IM at a wall here. Thanks for any help.

Another question I have is in regards to the SHIFTER/TEMP lights on the top of the gauge. The book describes the left light as a YELLOW warning shift light and the RED as a shift now light. Then on the next page it describes the RED LIGHT as a temperature light... is there a different mode that you can switch between?
 

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I can get the turn signals to work properly, but the NEUTRAL, OIL, FUEL all light up and stay on. THey are all hooked up to the O/G. Any thoughts why they are all staying lit up?
O/G = Orange/Green wire?? Or what?? And you do under stand that the signal wires #11 and #12 represent one for the left and one for the right dash indicator. I just connected them BOTH together as I only am using the vaoprs ( <=> ) light and I really didn't need the dash to tell me which signal was activated, just that one of them was blinking after I completed my turn.

THe confusing part is that if you look at the diagram above and the wire scheme - it says Neutral should be BL/B -- not O/G.
Forget the colors and use the positions in the wire harness. I chopped the gauge side wire harness apart and left 6" leads off it and used those to connect to the Vapor so it would unplug from the bike harness just like the OEM did. Plus my OEM gauge was damaged so It couldn't be resold either.



Also -- in the diagram above, in the left box, whats the difference between the left column and the right column? (IE: NEUTRAL is 2,13)
Wire #2 is the hot lead from the bike ignition, and #13 is from the Neutral switch in the gear box. Have you tried shifting into gear to see if the light goes out yet??


Another question I have is in regards to the SHIFTER/TEMP lights on the top of the gauge. The book describes the left light as a YELLOW warning shift light and the RED as a shift now light. Then on the next page it describes the RED LIGHT as a temperature light... is there a different mode that you can switch between?
The two lights act at both temp and shift lights. Trust me you'll know which is activated based on your digital RPM or Engine Temp reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
O/G = Orange/Green wire?? Or what?? And you do under stand that the signal wires #11 and #12 represent one for the left and one for the right dash indicator. I just connected them BOTH together as I only am using the vaoprs ( <=> ) light and I really didn't need the dash to tell me which signal was activated, just that one of them was blinking after I completed my turn.
Orange/Green yes. Yup - I got the signals working properly. I have one light for both signals, just like the stock setup.


Wire #2 is the hot lead from the bike ignition, and #13 is from the Neutral switch in the gear box. Have you tried shifting into gear to see if the light goes out yet??
So - I hooked the NEUTRAL Vapor Wire to #2 alone. The result was no light up. I then hooked the NEUTRAL Vapor Wire to #13 alone. The result was the light lit up, but never turned off when out of NEUTRAL. This was the same for the OIL, and FUEL light as well. When they were hooked up to #2 -- They were on all the time. They never shut off.
 

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looking forward to see how yours turns out, I have one sitting in the Garage waiting to go on my KTM.
 

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I've got a vapor mostly installed but I'm still having issues getting the low fuel light to work. Does the low fuel light come on when the ignition is on but the bike isn't running. I haven't put many mikes on my bike since I got everything but the low fuel working. Thus far I've only paid attention the the number of miles I've been and filled up before it use to come on. I don't mind losing the blinking reserve I just need to get the solid indicator working because I always head towards a gas station once that comes on.
 

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If you add a diode across to the oil pressure sender input, then it will come on with the ignition (this is how the OEM cluster does it)
If you don't add the diode, the only way it will come on is when you get low fuel.
The other thing that is important is that if you are using LED for the fuel light, you must put a shunt resistor across it (if using incandescent, you don't need it)

See my previous post #4 above for link with diagram. (also post 28 for the LED version)

Note that adding the diode to the OP sensor input will do nothing to validate the operation of your low fuel sender, only validate that the light is working.
 

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man,it's probabely easier than it looks but when i look at the pic with the wires out like that ,my eyes just glaze over and i think "there's one mod i will never ever do" good luck with that.
 

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man,it's probabely easier than it looks but when i look at the pic with the wires out like that ,my eyes just glaze over and i think "there's one mod i will never ever do" good luck with that.
Yeah it's wicked easy to hook up, just do one wire at a time. Hell I wired mine all up in my living room before even connecting it to the bike and I got it 100% correct just from the one harness diagram. Just connect the correct wire to the correct lead and it works.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah it's wicked easy to hook up, just do one wire at a time. Hell I wired mine all up in my living room before even connecting it to the bike and I got it 100% correct just from the one harness diagram. Just connect the correct wire to the correct lead and it works.

:)
i hate you... ;D
Im going to work on it tonight in during the hockey game. Just a matter of time and patience. Or I can try all 576 different possibilities. Im too far in to turn around now. Full steam ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DONE! Got it all working. i went with:
- Left Turn Signal
- Right Turn Signal
- Neutral
- Fuel

Here is a 21 page PDF with detailed photos of wire-to-wire connections along with a list of what wires to connect to as well is wiring diagrams and the kitchen sink. Enjoy! Let me know if you'd like to add anything to this writeup.

Sticky this Please.
 

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Those are the 4 I went with two. Luckily on first gens you could have just used one light for signals but the second gens need two or we have to use diodes. I'm glad you got it up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks.
I originally went with the one light for both signals, like the stock set up with the diodes. It wasn't hard too install. The reason i went this route was because i hooked up the wire plugs and realized that i need to do the diodes.. so i didn't feel like unhooking them. And ill just keep an eye on my oil level.
 

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I don't have an issue with you using my diagrams in your pdf, however I think it would be courteous to acknowledge the source (and similarly for those others information contained in there).
 
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