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Discussion Starter #1
Hi SVRiders,

Bad luck, I encounter my first problem after riding the bike for the first time!
I was cleaning my bike after a trackday and now the bike doesn't start anymore.

There is no side stand (switch disabled) and the kill switch is off.
I hear the fuel pump building pressure when I turn the key.
No fault codes on the dash in dealer mode (c00).
When i press the ignition switch nothing happens, I can't hear the starter relay click.

Ignition fuse (10A) is OK.
Main fuse (30A) is OK.
Battery is charged.
I tested the starter relay (according to my Haynes manual) and it appears to be fine.
Took apart the switch and it looks OK.
When I short the relay my bike starts without a problem and runs great.

Any ideas? I would really appreciate some help.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Found it!

Jeez, I love my Haynes manual!
It appears to be my clutch switch at the left clipon. If I short it out, the bike starts no problem.
54629


Now I need to figure out if I need to replace it or if I can just cut the connector and short out the wires...
Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This guy says you can't just delete the clutch switch on FI bikes because it will remain in a certain fueling map in the ECU...
Can anyone confirm or deny this?

 

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Didn’t someone determine the ECU map is only changed below around 3k RPM? Maybe in neutral it’s not different at all. He performed tests with an oscilloscope. Can’t find the thread or vid I watched
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@ShaggyZ I’ve seen it on youtube and you’re correct.
Since my bike is for track use only I won’t bother cutting the wire to ECU.
My bike will not run under 3300rpm a lot...


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@ShaggyZ I’ve seen it on youtube and you’re correct.
Since my bike is for track use only I won’t bother cutting the wire to ECU.
My bike will not run under 3300rpm a lot...


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definitely DO cut the wire at the ecu. because the symptom of the wrong map is bike stalling when it comes to a stop. which gets you stuck in pit lane etc.
and it wont map right if you ever add the power commander
 

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I just removed my jumper today and wired a toggle switch in. Noy mounted yet just safety wired in place while I test it and decide if I am going to run a switch or cut it at the ECU.
 

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We've had some reports of the clutch lever wearing to a point where it has enough up and down play that you can squeeze it at the wrong angle and it will not depress the switch. The simplest thing to do in that case is to replace the lever and if necessary, the pivot screw and/or perch.

We've also had some reports of the switch itself popping out of place so it cannot be depressed.

I would check for those conditions before trying to reinvent the wheel.

And to shortcut the diagnostic process, if you hear the fuel pump prime, all the safety cuts (stand switch, tipover sensor, and neutral switch) are satisfied besides the clutch switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11
We've had some reports of the clutch lever wearing to a point where it has enough up and down play that you can squeeze it at the wrong angle and it will not depress the switch. The simplest thing to do in that case is to replace the lever and if necessary, the pivot screw and/or perch.

We've also had some reports of the switch itself popping out of place so it cannot be depressed.

I would check for those conditions before trying to reinvent the wheel.

And to shortcut the diagnostic process, if you hear the fuel pump prime, all the safety cuts (stand switch, tipover sensor, and neutral switch) are satisfied besides the clutch switch.
I don't think "reinventing the wheel" is what I'm trying to go for.
My primary goal for building a "race harness" on my dedicated track bike is to simplify the wiring to the maximum.
By removing a maximum of unneccessary connectors and switches it will be much easier to diagnose an electrical problem in the future.
Much less can go wrong so the bike is even more reliable...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@wsmc549 , I just read you post:

I hope this fixed it.
 
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