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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone help to locate the plug on a '08 SV650 where the dealer service switch (aka 3" piece of electrical wire) plugs in?

I want to adjust my TPS to 1450 for the obvious reasons of throttle response at low speed. I have come to the conclusion I cant find it for looking :)
 

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Can anyone help to locate the plug on a '08 SV650 where the dealer service switch (aka 3" piece of electrical wire) plugs in?

I want to adjust my TPS to 1450 for the obvious reasons of throttle control at low speed. I have come to the conclusion I cant find it for looking :)


The 05 has it under the rear seat on the left side. I'm not sure if the 08 is in the same place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Take off the seat and look for the white plug with the rubber cap. There are some pics of it in this thread:
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=55459
Thanks people, I did review this article earlier. Had another look and nothing even close to the photos there. I guess I will go to my local dealer at lunch tomorrow and just ask the tech.

I might add there seems to be something similar but is way down, cant see it properly and cant get to it with rear or front seat removed.
 

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You might have found it. Mine was tucked into the subframe pretty snug so I had to dig it out and get a little slack before I could do the adjustment.
 

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...I want to adjust my TPS to 1450 for the obvious reasons of throttle control at low speed. ...
Wait - what are you trying to do exactly? ???
TP should be adjusted at 1300rpm - adjusting it at 1450 will throw your whole map off.
I don't understand what you mean by "obvious reasons of throttle control at low speed."
 

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Wait - what are you trying to do exactly? ???
TP should be adjusted at 1300rpm - adjusting it at 1450 will throw your whole map off.
I don't understand what you mean by "obvious reasons of throttle control at low speed."
It should be adjusted to just slightly over idle. However from the factory most are at 2500-3000. He's just trying to get it down to an acceptable range to have smoother throttle control at low speed.
 

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It should be adjusted to just slightly over idle. However from the factory most are at 2500-3000. He's just trying to get it down to an acceptable range to have smoother throttle control at low speed.
What on earth are you talking about? ???
TPS is the calibration of the closed throttle positon which should be set up for 1300 rpm.
Are you talking about fast idle (cold) engine speed?

TPS does NOT affect the idle speed in either situation - it is only a calibration for the closed position. If you want to change the idle speed that is something completely different, but even if you DO want a faster warm idle (or slower fast idle), the TPS should still be calibrated at 1300 rpm ONLY.
 

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yes, you want it at 1300 but if you are at 1450 why fugg with it ore, you allready got it better than say 3000. Now I will be setting mine at 1300 since I will have the time to do it, but a hurry job I can see it.
 

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What on earth are you talking about? ???
TPS is the calibration of the closed throttle positon which should be set up for 1300 rpm.
Are you talking about fast idle (cold) engine speed?

TPS does NOT affect the idle speed in either situation - it is only a calibration for the closed position. If you want to change the idle speed that is something completely different, but even if you DO want a faster warm idle (or slower fast idle), the TPS should still be calibrated at 1300 rpm ONLY.
Exactly, which is why the sensor needs to be correctly set. It is completely separate from the idle. Here is the explanation of why you do it from the thread about how to adjust the sensor.

Basically, Fuel injected Suzukis have a sensor that senses what revs the engine is at and then tells the fuel injection and engine management systems to alter (basically to start squirting more fuel into the cylinders). MOST bikes are set wrongly and this causes the bike to be jerky at slow speeds (due to the fact that there's not enough fuel getting into the engine & then all of a sudden the fuel starts pumping in faster but by then it's a bit late!! This adjustment rectifies the problem!
 

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Exactly, which is why the sensor needs to be correctly set. It is completely separate from the idle. Here is the explanation of why you do it from the thread about how to adjust the sensor.
Yes, I know what the TPS does - it gives the reference voltage for the throttle opening to the ECM to use in the fueling & timing maps; it is critical that the map has the correct value for the 'zero' starting point, which is calibrated for the idle speed of 1300rpm with the throttles closed;
which is why I don't understand what you are saying by
... However from the factory most are at 2500-3000...
You set the idle speed first and then calibrate the TPS to 'zero' - or at least the voltage which translates to 'closed' in the map table.
Saying the factory is 'set to 2500-3000' is completely backwards - if it was not correctly calibrated, you could say that the TPS voltage (or the display reference) is either low or high at 1300, but to say it's 'zero'd' at 2500-3000 is misleading.
(I use the term 'zero'd' only metaphorically as far as the graphical display is concerned - in real terms is actually about 1.1V)

Or maybe you simply mean that the display only 'zero's' (the middle bar on the graphic display) when the rpm is increased to 2500-3000? That's still an odd way of describing that miscalibration - sorry, not trying to be picky.
I'd also be really surprised if indeed bikes are that far off from the factory.

That's also why the OP's original post saying
I want to adjust my TPS to 1450 .....
makes no sense - you don't adjust the TPS to 1450 (or to any value of rpm) - you adjust it AT 1300.


One note to anyone adjusting this - there is a slight delay in the display registering any change as you adjust the TPS position, so gently nudge & wait for reaction before you go too far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, I know what the TPS does - it gives the reference voltage for the throttle opening to the ECM to use in the fueling & timing maps; it is critical that the map has the correct value for the 'zero' starting point, which is calibrated for the idle speed of 1300rpm with the throttles closed;
which is why I don't understand what you are saying by

You set the idle speed first and then calibrate the TPS to 'zero' - or at least the voltage which translates to 'closed' in the map table.
Saying the factory is 'set to 2500-3000' is completely backwards - if it was not correctly calibrated, you could say that the TPS voltage (or the display reference) is either low or high at 1300, but to say it's 'zero'd' at 2500-3000 is misleading.
(I use the term 'zero'd' only metaphorically as far as the graphical display is concerned - in real terms is actually about 1.1V)

Or maybe you simply mean that the display only 'zero's' (the middle bar on the graphic display) when the rpm is increased to 2500-3000? That's still an odd way of describing that miscalibration - sorry, not trying to be picky.​
I'd also be really surprised if indeed bikes are that far off from the factory.

That's also why the OP's original post saying
makes no sense - you don't adjust the TPS to 1450 (or to any value of rpm) - you adjust it AT 1300.


One note to anyone adjusting this - there is a slight delay in the display registering any change as you adjust the TPS position, so gently nudge & wait for reaction before you go too far.
I would not say you're picky. Correct terminology/explanations works for me and I know as a datacommunications analyst that it really helps when someone is actually using the correct terminology and data principles.

This is all new to me. On my Beemer I could change points and adjust timing and adjust valve clearance and my only special tool was a 12v light globe with 2 lengths of wire soldered to it with aligator clips. Heck even adjusting the carbs all I did was pull off a spark plug lead on each side alternately and adjust.

This definitely is a huge learning curve as I like to do all my own work or at least as much as I can.

Only going on what I have read for adjustment at http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=55459

What I am hoping to achieve is smoothing out riding in 1st gear, say in a carpark or just at low speeds. Maybe this is just part of the beast as this is my first bike with FI.

At present my bike idles, warm, at 1300 which is correct.

I want to slowly open the throttle with dealer switch installed and see at what rpm the center dash in front of the dealer code C00 moves up. The article above infers it should be approximately 1450 rpm but quite often this is way higher. Is this figure incorrect and should it be closer to 1300? 1300 or as close to as possible makes more sense. Reading all the replies in the above article it was ask where he plucked 1450 from! And when persons made the adjustment from over 3000 to 1450, well it would feel a lot better.

It may be spoton or not. I would like to check and back to my original question, I think I have found the connector for the dealer switch but getting to it with my monster hands and fingers is another story.
 

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sorry, not trying to be picky.
No harm in being picky when it comes to technical descriptions. I believe we are trying to make similar points, just wording it differently and causing confusion. I'll try and do a better job explaining what we're trying to accomplish with this adjustment. He's is trying to adjust his TPS so that at 1450 it will register the throttle moving from the closed to open position. I've heard that due to the manufacturing process, the sensor ends up being nudged slightly, which translates to reading the action of opening the throttle at too high an RPM. My TPS was reading throttle open at ~2700, and by reading I mean the bar for the C00- moved from the middle section to the top.
I'm guessing the OP is aiming for 1450 for two reasons. First, that's the RPM the write up mentions. Second, the sensor is a pain in d*ck to adjust. To adjust mine to 'zero' at 1350 instead of 2700 took about half a mm of movement and 30 min of frustration. From what I've heard people are usually happy if they can get theirs to show 'zero' in the 1300-1500 range.

I still probably misspoke as I'm not sure all the correct terminology to use, but hopefully you understand what I'm going for.
 

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OK - now I understand where the 1450 & 3000 references came from
....Only going on what I have read for adjustment at http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=55459......
Here's one quote from that thread that shows some basic misunderstanding:

Please do not assume that your bike will arrive with the TPS correctly adjusted by Suzuki. Mine was "turning up" the fuel mix at about 3200 RPM -- it's basically a brand new bike! (The adjustment is to reset this transition point to about 1450 RPM.)
The TPS is not digital - it is an analog voltage; whether or not the graphical display on the cluster does not move until 3200 (or whatever the number is) does not mean that the TPS itself is not changing! The display probably operates off a comparitor - electronic device that compares - hence the name - one voltage (the TPS) against a reference and will switch the output accordingly. So anything above the 'high' threshold or below the 'low' threshold will result accordingly in the display.
However that has NOTHING to do with the actual control of the ECM - as soon as the throttle is moved, regardless of by how much or what the display is showing, the TPS voltage is changing and that voltage is applied to the 'look-up' table in the ECM to adjust fuelling accordingly.
So those comments above about "turning up" the fuel mix at about 3200 RPM or "resetting the transition point" is nonsense.

It is really important to note my comment earlier - there is a significant delay in the display reaction so need to wait for it to settle before concluding what the adjustment has done (or the throttle position adjust to watch it change). It is also REALLY important that the bike is fully at operating temperature so the fast idle does not come into play.

The adjustment is for 1300 - period! An accepted practice is that with about a 150rpm increase, you should see the display move. That does not mean that it is adjusted at 1450; only that by 1450 it will have crossed the threshold - as far as the display is concerned. You could equally/alternatively reduce the idle speed and expect to see it transition to the lower display bar.

A much better method - more accurate and easier to see the change anyway - is to use a digital voltmeter on the TPS signal. This voltage is between 0 and 5V depending on throttle position. It should be ~ 1.1V with the throttle closed and idle set to 1300. (probably easier to access directly at the TPS connector plug)
I would suggest if you have access to a Digital Voltmeter, that you set the voltage with this. Unlike the graphical display you will get an immediate reaction on the voltmeter with no 'hysteresis' as you reverse direction of adjustment. After you have set it, then validate the reaction on the display is what you would expect as you slowly increase the rpm.



One final note - I would have to believe the display would be in the 'low' zone if it did not change 'high' until 3000 rpm so I am skeptical that was an accurate finding by the quoted poster.
 

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Thanks for the insight D'Ecosse, that was an interesting read. I'm curious about making the adjustment based off the voltage. Do you think you could do a slightly more detailed write up of this method? Maybe we could get it turned into a 'sticky' or FAQ since this is a pretty common adjustment made with new bikes.

EDIT: Hey I just got home and can now see your image, nevermind on that detailed write up.
 

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The TPS has a 3-pin plug to it - those three pins are ground, +5V and the TPS output signal.
Connect your meter from battery -ve (don't use the frame or the engine as your reference lead) to the one that measures ~ 1.1V (should be the pink/white wire) and that is the one you'll use for cal.
Then just set your idle speed (once suitably warmed up) to 1300 rpm using the fine idle speed adjuster screw and then adjust the TPS sensor till you get the correct voltage reading (1.12V) and lock it down.
Once it's set, you can validate with the display in dealer mode that it is in the 'center' position and that further, when you increase (or decrease) the idle speed using the fine control, that it will toggle the display to the up or down position.
Remember to give the display time to react as you adjust the idle speed.
Once you confirm it is good (to be honest you don't even need that last step - just validate that it is in the center position at 1300 - but if it makes you feel better, check it out by raiing or lowering the idle speed) remember to set the idle back to 1300.
That should do it!
 
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