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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i saw it posted some where b4 but i can't find it now. just wondering what tools i'll need to take the wheel off and to put springs and change the fork oil on an 05 naked.
 

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Tools for this are pretty simple. The one that is hard to find is a 12MM hex head socket to pull out the front axle. You can use a regular "hex key" if you like but then you cant torque it properly when you reinstall the front wheel. Other then that you just need a basic metric socket set to get the forks off. When I replaced my fork oil I used a "fork oil levelling tool" from motion pro but there are cheaper ways to do that using a turkey baster. If you are installing new springs you may need a hacksaw for the spacers. The service manual has great instructions on how to totally take apart and reassemble it all. Most important in my book is a torque wrench so you can properly tighten it all down when you put it back together. You definetly dont want your front end coming loose on you.

Sam
 

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I have an 'S' but I don't think it makes a difference.

12 mm allen hex wrench, you can get these in half inch drive in a set of 3 at autoparts store.  For front axle.
6 mm hex wrench if you remove damper rod, this is if you are going to put in RaceTech Goldvalve Emulators.
you will also need 6 mm for removing the fender.
12 mm socket for triple clamp and pinch bolt
10 mm socket for clipons.
24 mm socket for fork caps
TORQUE WRENCH!!!!
Some method of suspending front end in the air.
I used two 6 foot step ladders with a two by four on top and I used nylon locking straps to hold it in the air after I lifted it with my front stand.

DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK CAPS IF THE BIKE IS NOT SUSPENDED IN THE AIR!  

If you know someone that works in a hospital get a 60cc syringe to get your oil level exact.
Measure 120mm from the tip of syringe and align that mark from the top of the fork and suck excess oil out.

Please use a torque wrench, most of these bolts are in aluminum and if you strip or cross thread them, it will cost you.
Most are torqued at 24 Newton-meters which is not a lot.  Watch out when installing fork caps, make sure they are in straight, you don't want to cross thread them.
 

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similar to currently's list:

I just did it last week or so on 03 naked


If you are asking about tools you might be thinking you don't have a complete shop set (like me) so I will mention the #1 item needed:
Front Stand to lift front wheel or straps to hang from strong beam

-12mm hex key (I got mine from Sears) 12mm not part of normal hex sets.
-metric hex key set
-Adjustable wrench, or 2?mm wrench for the Fork Caps
-standard set of sockets 8mm-14mm I recall
-tool for measuring oil depth (I used a acyrlic strip with a hex wrench through a hole drilled at top--distance from hole to bottom edge of acrylic = oil depth)
-and last but not least: a torque wrench (that is PROPERLY CALIBRATED so you don't snap a bolt off
in the triple like I did)

good luck. ed
 
G

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Currently said:
I have an 'S' but I don't think it makes a difference.

12 mm allen hex wrench, you can get these in half inch drive in a set of 3 at autoparts store.  For front axle.
6 mm hex wrench if you remove damper rod, this is if you are going to put in RaceTech Goldvalve Emulators.
you will also need 6 mm for removing the fender.
12 mm socket for triple clamp and pinch bolt
10 mm socket for clipons.
24 mm socket for fork caps
TORQUE WRENCH!!!!
Some method of suspending front end in the air.
I used two 6 foot step ladders with a two by four on top and I used nylon locking straps to hold it in the air after I lifted it with my front stand.

DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK CAPS IF THE BIKE IS NOT SUSPENDED IN THE AIR!  

If you know someone that works in a hospital get a 60cc syringe to get your oil level exact.
Measure 120mm from the tip of syringe and align that mark from the top of the fork and suck excess oil out.

Please use a torque wrench, most of these bolts are in aluminum and if you strip or cross thread them, it will cost you.
Most are torqued at 24 Newton-meters which is not a lot.  Watch out when installing fork caps, make sure they are in straight, you don't want to cross thread them.
The only thing I would add is to use an anti-seize compound on all bolts that thread into aluminum castings. This is not Locktite, although blue Locktite will serve this function. The rule of thumb is, If you are going to take it apart often use anti-seize compound. If you are going to take apart once in a while, use blue Locktite. Under no circumstances use red Locktite!

Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
kool thanx guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
?
 

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Does anyone have pictures of suspending the front end with 2x4s or from beams? I have good tie downs, jack stands, but not a good beam to hold it from. I was thinking maybe a big tree limb about 10 ft in the air next to my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i know tree limbs work great for pulling out engines. never tried to suspend a bike from one.
 

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Jiff84 said:
Does anyone have pictures of suspending the front end with 2x4s or from beams? I have good tie downs, jack stands, but not a good beam to hold it from. I was thinking maybe a big tree limb about 10 ft in the air next to my garage.
A long time ago, I read a post where someone put some weight on the rear seat and used a jackstand under the engine. You got to be careful where you support the weight there.

I mentioned this several times, go buy a couple of six foot stepladders. You run a 2x4 across the top. Plus the darn things are incredibly useful around the house. Put a 2x10 across the second step and it is a scaffold for painting, a seat for kids when you have a lot of company ... I am always using them for one purpose or another. Don't get aluminum, get the wood ones.
 
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