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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I've installed new races and all balls roller bearings.

I tightened the steering head bearing adjustment nut to 28lbs and backed it off 3/8th a turn.
I'm not running a steering damper.

The lower tree moves back and forth easily and smoothly with no binding, no lateral or vertical play.

When I put on the lock nut and torqued the upper nut properly the tree becomes much harder to move.
It's tighter, not impossible to move, just not as smooth as it was with just the lower nut on and backed off.

I've tested a few times and not until I back off the lower nut (to nearly half a turn back) and torque the top nut does it move freely.

Installing the upper tree and bars, testing initial movement of the bars, it's only taking 0.06lbs, 27g, to move the bars measured with a spring scale.

Reading through posts I've seen 250-500 grams of initial force and mine is way under that - should I expect a little resistance to movement vs what I have now - just trying to dial it in as much by feel as much as by accurate measurement so it is repeatable.

Any assistance appreciated, I've already searched the forum, printed out the instructions, I'm just looking for that last little bit of assistance to not screw it up :)

Thanks,
gork
 

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It's a difficult adjustment to get right. If you have no play in the lateral direction and smooth movement, it should be good. When you ride it, if you notice a weaving back and forth no matter what grip you take on the bars, you will know it's a bit too tight. Might take some trial and error.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Currently, 1/2 turn out instead of 3/8ths with the top nut torqued, is super smooth - but very little preload... so measured with a spring scale it takes nothing to move the bars.

Should the bars just move nice and easy or have some preload?
 

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It's tricky to get it right and it took me four adjustments and it's still a bit too light for my taste. But as long as there is no play and your bike is stable going straight I'd say leave it as is.
Below is the best post I've found on this topic from a while back:
Tapered bearings need way less torque than a ball type does, and they can be fiddly getting set right. The factory procedures are of no use to you with the AllBalls tapered bearings in there. Would recommend you lightly torque them (maybe 5 ft/lbs) then move the bars back and forth a few times which should squeeze out any latent grease between the surfaces, then release the nut and retighten by hand (fingers) as tight as you can get it while wiggling the bars. The object is to get it to '0' preload but with NO freeplay either. I've found my fingers can tighten the nut to '0' but aren't strong enough to preload the bearing and this works well for me.

Once you've adjusted the bearings as well as you can...be prepared to re-adjust in a little bit because they'll very likely move a bit tighter on the stem which will loosen them up. Do the finger adjust again to get it tight but not preloaded and after a couple times it should stay in adjustment. The slightest preload on a tapered bearing will make it really heavy feeling where that same preload on a ball bearing will be free and effortless turning. Hopefully you haven't indented the races by over-torquing them...:) If they still move lock to lock smoothly they're OK...just snug em up.
From http:///www.svrider.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-357177.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I’m at 0 preload with no free play... so maybe it’s all good. Feels very light, but given that at 30K miles my bike (new to me) still had the original bearings with no grease, lots of rust and dents and wouldn’t turn without a lot of effort so I’ve no reference for how it should be for this model
 
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