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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help!! please. I am a relatively new member and 2006 SV1000R owner (used, 12,000+ miles) and would like to check the throttle valve syncronization and throttle position sensor after changing all fluids and doing other less complicated stuff. I have syncronized carbs successfully on other bikes (mine & friends) several times and have the guages, etc., but this is my first injected bike & all those sensors really put me off. I have the 2003 manual and 2005 supplement which is good but does not give me accurate step by step instructions (with pics) that match my bike since a lot of stuff has apparently been relocated and my '06 appears to have two Intake Air Pressure sensors. Biggest question is how to deal with all the sensors after the air box is removed (reconnect them, not, or other). Also, I found some great advice on how to connect the dealer mode on an SV650 using a by-pass wire. Can anyone tell me exactly how this is done on an '06 1000? Any advice you can offer will be GREATLY appreciated.

Jim W.

PS: This is a top notch site in every way!! Hope to be able to give, as well as receive------
 

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Welcome Jim, it is really easy to do, but time consuming. Do a search on here and on SV-portal and you will see a lot of threads on it.
 

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Best advice anyone can give you is to permanently install a couple pieces of tubing to the TB nipples and run them out from under the box so you can easily get to them. Cap them with screws when not being used. Having these makes synching a simple task in the future.:)

I've found it good to leave everything in place...airbox, sensors et al when doing the adjustment. You can easily get at the adjustment screw with the box installed. You can find pics online if you really need them, but take a minute and look at the linkage and it'll be obvious which one you need to fiddle with to alter the synch. If it isn't, you'll learn more from figuring it out than just copying from a picture.

Every screw on there has a purpose. It is not hard to see what each does if you just look at them....work the throttle....watch how things move. You can do it!:)

You are getting close to the recommended valve clearance checking time. I'd make sure the valves are where they are supposed to be before doing up the TB's as any adjustments you make will muck up the synch. Not that you are mucking up much...hah! 5 minutes work at most once you figure things out.

But, I had mine synched then checked the clearances and ended up adjusting them all. And it threw the synch WAY off! Thinking about it, when the valves open and close really dictates how much air it inhales and when. Try to get the valve adjustment as close as possible on all the valves to make each cylinder inhale the same amount of air....then synch and you'll have the smoothest running engine possible. And these SV1K's DO run smooth!:)
 

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At 12k, if it doesn't run rough or fuel economy hasn't dropped significantly, skip it. Unless you're into doing it as an academic exercise, that is, but it shouldn't be out of sync.
 

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Best advice anyone can give you is to permanently install a couple pieces of tubing to the TB nipples and run them out from under the box.

And these SV1K's DO run smooth!:)
I agree and have done the remote tubing as one of my first alterations, before I even had tags on it.........after having 2 SV1KSs, I found the sync is not optimal from the factory.



Although the S model is easy, I am not too sure how much the R model differentiates in procedure. :hiding:


Sent from my right shoe phone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Best advice anyone can give you is to permanently install a couple pieces of tubing to the TB nipples and run them out from under the box so you can easily get to them. Cap them with screws when not being used. Having these makes synching a simple task in the future.:)

I've found it good to leave everything in place...airbox, sensors et al when doing the adjustment. You can easily get at the adjustment screw with the box installed. You can find pics online if you really need them, but take a minute and look at the linkage and it'll be obvious which one you need to fiddle with to alter the synch. If it isn't, you'll learn more from figuring it out than just copying from a picture.

Every screw on there has a purpose. It is not hard to see what each does if you just look at them....work the throttle....watch how things move. You can do it!:)

You are getting close to the recommended valve clearance checking time. I'd make sure the valves are where they are supposed to be before doing up the TB's as any adjustments you make will muck up the synch. Not that you are mucking up much...hah! 5 minutes work at most once you figure things out.

But, I had mine synched then checked the clearances and ended up adjusting them all. And it threw the synch WAY off! Thinking about it, when the valves open and close really dictates how much air it inhales and when. Try to get the valve adjustment as close as possible on all the valves to make each cylinder inhale the same amount of air....then synch and you'll have the smoothest running engine possible. And these SV1K's DO run smooth!:)
Thanks for the advice, VERY helpfull! You have given me a new look at breathing variations but I will probably keep my fingers crossed on the valve adjustment for a little while and jump head first into the synchronization thing. Really like your idea of installing permanent easily accessable vac hoses for the future and leaving the air box in place (including all the sensors). Wish I had thought of that for a previous long ride, a Honda VTR1000 which was carburated but the ballancing routine was similar. I prefer the SV in every way except the VTR's throttle response (on-off) was spot on with no surging and had less vibration through most of the RPM range. My guess is that with your and others advice the SV will soon become my best ride among several. Gutsy to ask, I know, but any more advice on the dealer mode thing?

Jim
 

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there are 2 link rods on the TB's a top one and a bottom one. each one has an adjuster screw. the top one is for the STV and the bottom one is for the PTV.

do not touch the top one. its the bottom one you want to adjust for the vacuum. when you adjust the screw the throttle will advance (rev) so make small adjustments at a time and let settle between each one also between each adjustment give the throttle a tiny little turn and again let settle till you make the next adjustment. repeat till the vacuum are even.

the bike needs to be upto running temp before you do the balance. if the outside temps are high get a desktop fan and blow it at the radiator. this will help cool the bike while you make the adjustment.

connect the vacuum gauge before you get the bike up to temp or you'll burn your hands trying to get the tubes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
At 12k, if it doesn't run rough or fuel economy hasn't dropped significantly, skip it. Unless you're into doing it as an academic exercise, that is, but it shouldn't be out of sync.
Thanks,

When I bought my SV it had not been well maintained (needed a friend) and it was running a bit rough with abrupt on-off throttle response which is a bit too exciting at (my) full lean, surging with neutral throttle, and was very unhappy below 3000 rpm. Also, there was a lot of vibration here & there on the way up the RPM range. Putting the horse before the cart, I installed a TRE (I highly recommend) which noticeably improved the ridability. Next, I installed a pre-programed Power Commander III USB (also highly recommended) which improved it even further. I am now enjoying very good throttle control and 2500 rpm is no problem but a reduced vibration on throttle is still present which I suspect is related to TB sync and/or TPS adjustment. Truthfully, I am very happy with this bike, as is, and my reason for reaching for further improvement is probably more anal than academic. My guess is there are a few others on this site who are burdened with the need for unachievable perfection and I hope you understand, as they will. In any case I really appreciate your input on this.

Jim W.

Future Burden: There are other vibrations that are probably a clutch problem well described elsewhere in the forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
there are 2 link rods on the TB's a top one and a bottom one. each one has an adjuster screw. the top one is for the STV and the bottom one is for the PTV.

do not touch the top one. its the bottom one you want to adjust for the vacuum. when you adjust the screw the throttle will advance (rev) so make small adjustments at a time and let settle between each one also between each adjustment give the throttle a tiny little turn and again let settle till you make the next adjustment. repeat till the vacuum are even.

the bike needs to be upto running temp before you do the balance. if the outside temps are high get a desktop fan and blow it at the radiator. this will help cool the bike while you make the adjustment.

connect the vacuum gauge before you get the bike up to temp or you'll burn your hands trying to get the tubes on.
Really appreciate the tips. With your help, maybe I won't screw this one up....Jim
 

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I did what RecoilRob mentioned above a few months ago after tackling the job and it will def be a breeze doing it the second time around. I have 3" rubber tubes with a nipple and a plug on the end running from the throttle body nipples. I also found out that the factory nipple caps were broken when I did the sync (causing a vacuum leak). BTW, my throttle bodies were synced perfectly, I didn't have to do anything (12k miles).
 

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Best advice anyone can give you is to permanently install a couple pieces of tubing to the TB nipples and run them out from under the box so you can easily get to them. Cap them with screws when not being used. Having these makes synching a simple task in the future.:)
+1 did this after my second balancing...also use these tubes for Seafoam treatment.
 
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