Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Inspired by a couple riders/threads

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=94331
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=78600

and a cracked/scratched up fairing, I decided to paint my bike. Always had a plan to since the bike was purchased with a couple bad dings but actually doing it is another story. I guess thats where my laziness comes in, did this paint job with as little work as possible and surprisingly it came out looking very nice. Total cost came out to about $50 too.

Stuff used:
2 cans rustoleum primer
5 cans rustoleum glossy enamel paint
1 tube of "quicksilver" that putty that turns into cement when mixed
1 pack of 400 grit wet/dry sanding paper
1 can acetone

Steps:
1.Remove the parts you want to paint

2.Remove all the little pieces from your part such as the gromets

3.Wash the parts down with some degreaser like simple green and make sure all the dirt and garbage is off.

4.Let the parts dry off.

5.Sand the clear coat off all the areas that will be visible when the part is on the bike (the only pieces I did on both sides were the lower fairings since you can see the other sides when mounted). You can tell that you removed the clear coat when the area is no longer shiny, it looks pasty and dull. Your lungs will be happy if you wear a mask during this step.

6.Wash the part off again and dry.

7.If you have any cracks in your fairing they can be repaired with the quicksilver. Use masking tape to secure the cracked piece together where you want it. Then take a slice out of the putty, mash it together til its a solid color then if its a bad crack take some big pieces and create braces across the back of the piece to secure it in place. Wait an hour or so for it to harden, then mash some into the front of the crack and smooth it out the best you can with your fingers. Once its solid just sand it out to a smooth finish, Good as new.

8.Clean up the painting surface a little bit more by wiping it over once with some acetone.

9.Find a good area to paint in, I just put a large tarp down in the middle of the garage and opened the side door and garage to make sure there was enough ventilation (even with everything open the fumes can be a little much). Then place the part down where all the important parts are visible, I did this by using shoe boxes to either elevate the piece or tilt the piece enough to get to all the areas I need to with the paint.

10.With a good mask and some gloves on begin your first coat of primer, give it a decent coat with smooth back and forth motions, but don't over do it or stay in one spot too long or else you will get drips. Wait 5 minutes and go over it again. If it looks pretty well covered then that should be fine, if not just wait another 5 minutes and give it another coat. I used 2-3 coats of primer on all my pieces.

11.Wait 10 or 20 minutes til the primer looks fairly dry then you can lay down your first coat of paint (thats right, this is the impatient mans paint job). The first coat should be very thin and transparent. Then wait 5-10 minutes and lay down your next coat, this should almost if not totally cover the piece, should definitely be looking nice and smooth at this point. then wait 5-10 minutes and lay down another coat, I used 4-5 coats of paint on all my pieces. Again make sure not to paint too much in one spot, those drips can sneak up on you and they don't look pleasant/can be difficult to sand out sometimes if you chose to go back and sand they out after they dry.

12. Wait 10 or 20 minutes til the paint looks fairly dry then you can follow with coats of clear coat if you like, but make sure not to use rustoleum clear coat cause it has textured/dull finish. Same process, 5-7 minutes in between each coat, i used 2-3 coats of clear on each piece, make sure not to get any drips.

13. Now this is the important part, and the part that the impatient man has trouble with, you really need to let it cure for a long time, after one day if you touch it, it can still smudge/peal and if you have dirt on your fingers it can get into the paint and stay there. The paint did not seem like it had really solidified until about the 3-4 day mark, letting it cure longer definitely would not hurt. Since my bike is the only transportation I have I didnt really have the luxury of letting it sit, so I threw the pieces back on after a day and they cured on the bike just fine, just had to be careful not to put any little dings into the pieces while mounting them, which is really easy to do after just a day. The nice part is, is that if anything gets messed up you can always just mask that part off and blast it with some paint, good as new.

14. After everything feels nice and solid mount your pieces back on if you haven't already. Then give the bike a good wash and throw some wax on that sucker. I always use the clear liquid spray turtlewax, gives a nice shine.

15. Admire.

Went from this-



To this (not quite finished)-





The tank and front are now painted, just gotta throw them back on there then I will put up a finished picture.

The process of painting a bike in this fashion can be done in 1 day.

I gotta say, that this is not the best way to paint a bike (better instructions can be found in the thread at the beginning), it's just how i chose to do it. It was very quick, easy, and the results were better then I had expected.

Good luck if you chose to try it, I had a lot of fun working on the bike and I know its intimidating painting a bike and messing up the nice factory paint job, but it really is easy, and if you mess up, its nothing that can't be fixed with a little more sanding/painting.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top