[ziptech800]

Overwhelmingly positive. Do it.

One note: I go over in this video, that doing the R/R-direct-to-battery-wiring mod can probably save you from needing an R/R upgrade in the first place.

My old stock, and new '02 GSX-R1000 SCR-type R/Rs, when hooked up to the stock output connectors in the wiring harness, got shockingly hot -- I didn't shoot it with a laser pyrometer (should get one), but both got so hot after only five or so seconds, that I couldn't keep my fingers pressed to them. The GSX-R one, when modded to use the harness, got so hot on a typical commute (12 miles at highway speeds), that I could feel its heat radiating, just putting my hand on the tail section plastic.

Once I did the 12ga direct wiring mod, though... output measured at the terminals became both more consistent and higher-output, plus... the R/R body barely registers any warmth on the fingertips. The video says it all.

Here is D'Ecosse's comprehensive post on another forum for the wiring and R/R mods...

You may not *need* a MOSFET (Metal-Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect-Transistor) R/R, if you spend the $5 - $6 and 45 mins to do this mod. But if you want a reliability upgrade, or your R/R just $hit the bed, do yourself a favor and get a FET R/R (the 50A FH012AA, or the 35A FH010BA*, what I got.
EDIT: D'Ecosse below states that the FH010, and possibly even the FH008 {best for 1gens}, *may* be 40A - 50A units according to Shindengen... stay tuned as he has emailed the company for definitive output specs.) Then get Eastern Beaver's direct-to-battery wiring adapter kit for the FHs, very high-quality for the price, and bolt-on as well.

They're the same price or only a bit more to get a superior FET R/R vs. a Suzuki or early Honda SCR R/R. Why even consider anything else... any questions on the vid or of me, shoot.


* OEM, '06 Kawasaki ZX-10R.

 

[VARIABLE9]

Awesome. D'Ecosse is a bad a55 when it come to electronics.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Great video ziptech800 - pictures tell 1000 words!

The regulation is actually pretty good as you demonstrate - had not personally witnessed that on SCR unit before and the cool running also surprises me somewhat - the SCR's definitely drop more voltage across them than FETs hence dissipate more power.
But the real-life testing is what counts.

Excellent job there documenting your findings!

 

[avc8130]

Great video ziptech800 - pictures tell 1000 words!

The regulation is actually pretty good as you demonstrate - had not personally witnessed that on SCR unit before and the cool running also surprises me somewhat - the SCR's definitely drop more voltage across them than FETs hence dissipate more power.
But the real-life testing is what counts.

Excellent job there documenting your findings!

You need to post that over here and get it stickied!
ac

 

[r3t1awr3yd]

Do you happen to know how many amps the FH008 is rated for?

 

[ziptech800]

Do you happen to know how many amps the FH008 is rated for?

D'Ecosse thinks 35A -- more than enough for an SV (esp a 1gen), and much more compact than the FH012/010 -- excellent for shoving up in the narrow tailwings of the curvy SV -- even bolting up to the stock mount IIRC. My FH010BA is definitely bulky due to the Furukawa connectors on them, and must have custom mounts made for my 1gen. The FH008 would take GPS and a vest in stride, too -- my reason for upgrading to MOSFET. :thumbsup:

 

[ziptech800]

Great video ziptech800 - pictures tell 1000 words!

The regulation is actually pretty good as you demonstrate - had not personally witnessed that on SCR unit before and the cool running also surprises me somewhat - the SCR's definitely drop more voltage across them than FETs hence dissipate more power.
But the real-life testing is what counts.

Excellent job there documenting your findings!

Much thanks, D'Ecosse -- I should have made it clear in the video that there was absolutely *NO* intention in it to poo-poo your expertise -- that's been tested and proven repeatedly, here and elsewhere. But I did owe the corps of Curvy owners on the forum the benefit of what I did find... esp those that did acquire and *properly* install their GSX-R R/Rs, provided they follow your direct-to-battery wiring mod to the letter as well -- meaning 12ga wire.

D'Ecosse, I've also disseminated your install docs with my proof, to several local rider friends of mine, two of whom already want the wiring mods and one the FET mod as well. I'll be scheduling their installs with my own FH010BA's, the results of which I'll also document here, once a spare weekend comes around. :thumbsup:

 

[D'Ecosse]

One quick clarification incidentally - I certainly don't claim to be the originator of the direct-wiring-of-output to battery using stock SCR R/R - that has been around for quite some time, so don't want to pass that off as my innovation.
You'll see some form of that wiring mod on many Bike forums and each makes it look like they invented it!
But I do understand why it works!

FET R/R Specs:
I just found a new note on the Shindengen site that says their FET R/R's range from 40-50A! Interesting! The 012 is the only one that actually has a spec posted that definitively states 50A. I would not be surprised that the 010 is also 50A (the comment on the reference thread was actually misplaced from the 008 comment - have cut n pasted & updated that so many times! LOL!)
I updated the thread to reflect that I am unclear as those actual specs - meanwhile I dropped Shindengen an e-mail asking if they would share those with me.

For doing just the wiring mod (on SCR R/R) - or even for an FH008 - let me point your friends at some nice connectors on the Easten Beaver site that will make a really professional job for not much money!

If they are not averse to removing the original connector plug from the R/R, I would actually recommend this sealed waterproof connector -
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/Other/other.html - the very first one on that page, the Packard Dephi Metripack.

Cut off the old plug and connect one end of this new connector to the R/R output, and the other to the battery wiring (positive via the fuse)

Speaking of fuses, while you're at it, also consider from same manufacturer this fuse-holder - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Fuseholders/fuseholders.html

Incidentally the guy who has that site is awesome - great customer service - even though he's in Japan (Canadian ex-pat), you'll have these parts in your hands in a week (seriously) with extremely modest shipping charges.
For example, for the Delphi connector and fuse holder referenced above you'd be out the princely total sum of $14.30 incl shipping!!

(Compare with this for fuse-holder alone at local auotparts store!!!)

If anyone doing the wiring mod on a GSXR with a 5 or 7 wire connector, then do the output mod as above and for the stator wires, install a new 3 pin connector set like either the Yazaki or Sumitomo on this page
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html

Yazaki 3PF250K :

Sumitomo 3PM250K :

.

 

[ixlr8]

Did this mod 5 days ago with FJR MOSFET. Very pleased, very stable output. Thanks.

 

[ziptech800]

One quick clarification incidentally - I certainly don't claim to be the originator of the direct-wiring-of-output to battery using stock SCR R/R - that has been around for quite some time, so don't want to pass that off as my innovation.

Oh, just wanting to give credit to the poster that stood behind a solid mod, and arguably, who introduced its importance to the forums. For what it's worth, let's say my testimonial is intended for that.

I just found a new note on the Shindengen site that says their FET R/R's range from 40-50A! Interesting! The 012 is the only one that actually has a spec posted that definitively states 50A. I would not be surprised that the 010 is also 50A (the comment on the reference thread was actually misplaced from the 008 comment - have cut n pasted & updated that so many times! LOL!)
I updated the thread to reflect that I am unclear as those actual specs - meanwhile I dropped Shindengen an e-mail asking if they would share those with me.

Interesting! 50A from my FH010 would be muy bueno... however, looking at the commonly-available Shindengen FET units out on fleaBay, it seems of all of them, the FH008 Honda units are the perfect ones for 1gen SVs. Why? The pigtails remove the bulkiness of the Furukawa connectors... so it can bolt right onto the stock bosses, unlike the bigger FH010 and 012, which will need remote mounting as they can't fit in the tailwing without an adapter plate. The pigtails move the bulky connector housings away from the unit like the stock R/R's, which then just needs the Honda connectors snipped off and EaBea ones installed, to mate with the wiring mod. The cheapest 600/1000RR FH008 I've seen to date is ~$80... if you can find one cheaper in good condition, grab it!

In my 1gen application, the Delphi sealed bits would be mandatory, riding in the sloppy PNW as I do year-round. It's amazing the corrosion I found on the stator leads, which only a year before was gooped up and cleaned (Suzuki in its finite wisdom, makes the AC go through *two* Sumitomo connectors ~6" apart, both conveniently non-sealed AND vulnerable to the elements). The price makes it a no-brainer... done.

 

[D'Ecosse]

I agree that the FH008 is excellent match for the SV (that's what I have on mine)

...The cheapest 600/1000RR FH008 I've seen to date is ~$80... if you can find one cheaper in good condition, grab it! ....

Not looking hard enough!

#1

#2

#3

#4

Difference in 07/08 and 05/06 CBR600 is only the connector plugs - still FH008.

 

[ziptech800]

Sweet! I'm using 'CBR1000RR regulator' and 'CBR600RR regulator' in my search... not sure why only a few were turning up. That's what they *should* go for.

Heck at that price, I'll probably snag it, and sell the FH010 to a Sprint RS buddy who wants one...

 

[D'Ecosse]

use this search string:

CBR* ("Regulator", "Rectifier") ("05", "06", "07", "08", "09", "2005", "2006", "2007", "2008", "2009")

 

[Marc]

First off I want to give congrats to D'Ecosse and ziptech for their write ups on how to fix a major flaw with the SV650. When I first looked at my stock r/r years ago my first thought was how the hell can you use 16 gauge wire, and have it travel into the harness, on a part that is going to put out 20 amps or more. Anyway I never had any dead battery problems but worried when and where it would happen. Luckily it never happened.
Well today I took less than a 1/2 hour and did the rewire the stock r/r to battery. Holy cow, I like what I see.
Before rewire: 13.8 volts at idle dropping to 13.1 at 4000. r/r gets too hot to touch.
After rewire: 14.4 at idle dropping to 14.2 at 4000. I can put may hand on the r/r but it's not fun.
That was my '00 bike. Next up is my '01 that is run with the lights turned off at track days.
Good job guys :thumbsup:

 

[D'Ecosse]

... Next up is my '01 that is run with the lights turned off at track days...

You apparently recognize this Marc, but for benefit of others ........

It appears counter-intuitive to many , but the R/R actually works harder - has to dissipate more energy - when the load is less. i.e. it shunts more current. That of course makes it hotter still!

 

[jdewkilla]

subscribing

 

[ziptech800]

Here is the new video for the FH008EB I received earlier this week, and its install on my '00...

Edit: due to Flash conversion, the video lags behind the audio by two seconds by the end of the clip, keep that in mind during the meter test portion.


Some points not covered in the clip:

-- Do hit your local Ace or other hardware monger, and get metric flare head bolts that extend at least 5mm longer than your stock or GSX-R unit's bolts. The FH008EB has its bolt holes pass through a thick part of the body as opposed to a thin one on the SCR types.

-- Even though the bike doesn't idle as assertively as before, I'm wondering if the > 60 mph laboring I felt on the bike after the GSX-R R/R install, was due to that unit's constant 14.8 VDC performance. With the stock R/R, I never felt the bike resist going over 60 as much as after the GSX-R mod, so after reconfirming a few details with D'Ecosse, figured it was probably just old oil... but it still bugged me. I'll ride tomorrow to coffee, so will see if the laboring has disappeared.

-- I was initially concerned that many R/R retrofits seem to do different things. Some give more at idle than 5K, some more at 5K (this FH008, slightly), some exactly the same (my GSX-R one). Since the new install with EB connector stuff was going to also mean about twice the length of wire on the hot side, I wondered what that would do to resistance through the path, and if that affects how the MOSFET reads and responds to need. Everything's a compromise, though... and I wanted to make the bike just as easy to service, modify later and use, despite adding this mod. I won't emo over 2/10ths of a volt though, esp if my high-speed laboring issue goes away...

 

[ziptech800]

Interesting -- with the new FH008, the bike isn't as torquey right off the bottom as with the GSX-R unit... but above 60, it's the same bike as prior to the mods -- eager to rev out. As mentioned before, the GSX-R-installed bike didn't like to live above 60 as much, but idled and launched much better than before, or now.

To isolate if it's my wiring or the units that are responsible for the change, I can attach one of my spare Delphi connectors to the GSX-R unit, and see what it reads hooked up. If it shows less performance and gets hotter than prior to wiring-in the Delphi fuse, it's gotta be how I ran and installed the wiring. If it's the same as before, then it's just how the two units act when on a 1gen. There's also the remote chance that its the battery, so since it's time to consider a new one (8 years is reasonable, right? ;D), I'll publish a test comparing that as well.

 

[DasButterChurner]

maybe mu reading comprehension is off but..... is a complete harness available from easternbeaver for the r/r swap mod?

 

[D'Ecosse]

...... is a complete harness available from easternbeaver for the r/r swap mod?

Not for an FH008 (CBR)