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Discussion Starter #1
To start

Mid last year I swapped from the original naked model gauges to a digital gauges ebay special. The new gauges worked great and it was nice to have a a digital number instead of the needle. Forward to end of the year battery problems! The new gauges are draining my battery. Checked over all my wiring and other parts of the bike, everything is correct. So now its next year June and I bought stock Svs gauges and harness to splice into the original just like I did with the digital. Follow the same pics I did for the pin out on the harness for both N model and S model and the wires dont match up. I dont know which ground signal/ ground power (the black and white stripe ) goes to where, dosnt seem to matter. I have an extra sold white wire from the S harness that isnt noted in the pictures and dont know where that goes. The 7 pin on the N is not green and yellow nor is the 16 pin black and brown.

I matched everything the way it should according to these pics and turn the key as well as flipping the handle switch to run and the needles dont move. The neutral light is lit but when I turn on the high beams it turns off. Also if I dont have the headlights plugged I dont get that far.....

Help please and thank you

4d6fef4ed81f1598d078bc3bfb20fec8.jpg
 

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... The neutral light is lit but when I turn on the high beams it turns off.
Try measure voltage at the battery terminals with the lights on then off. You should see solid 12v or more at all times.

Flipping the high beams should in no way affect the neutral light unless the battery is dying under load. If the battery is good then there must be a wiring error.


... I have an extra sold white wire from the S harness that isnt noted in the pictures and dont know where that goes.
Are you saying you have a 17th wire? There should be 16 connections only, S or N.



... The 7 pin on the N is not green and yellow nor is the 16 pin black and brown.
Pin7 is solid Green with a thin Yellow tracer. Sometimes the wire colors fade over time. What colors are you seeing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello TeeRiver!

I did not test the voltage so I can not give you feedback on that one. If this is key to figuring this out by all means let me know I will reconnect the new harness back to the bike and test everything and come back with readings.

That is exactly what I'm saying. The S harness from the gauges back has 17 wires.

As for the colors, here is a picture of the original harness on the bike and the color scheme its got as well as the S harness fanned out to see.
 

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... I did not test the voltage so I can not give you feedback on that one. If this is key to figuring this out by all means let me know I will reconnect the new harness back to the bike and test everything and come back with readings.
Any time the bike is having electrical problems the very first thing to check is battery voltage. It is easy for the battery to drain while working on the bike. It is a good idea to remove the headlight fuses to reduce drain and keep the battery on trickle charge until everything is working.


That is exactly what I'm saying. The S harness from the gauges back has 17 wires.
The plug at the back of the S gauge has 16 contacts so there can only be 16 wires. If you are seeing 17 wires then try open the part of the harness where the extra wire is, trace it to see where it is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gotcha, Yea I've had the tender on since I started this project so no worries on voltage dropping. I will double check it anyway tho just to be sure.

Tested with a volt meter and the white wire is the positive for the high beams, or low not sure which on is on top. So that changes up the wire schem even more now.
 

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White is low beam, it does not go to the gauge, forget white. Now you have 16 wires to 16 wires. Good.

Match all wires that are 100% clear color match. Refer to the diagram in post#2, note that O = O/R and B/Br = B/W on the Sport SV.

After pairing all wires you know are a certain match, what do you have left?

This diagram should help. You can see White is in the harness but does not go to the gauge.
53868
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll give it a shot right now. Question really quick on the naked harness. Pin 8 and 16, the grounds signal and power. What's the difference?
 

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... Pin 8 and 16, the grounds signal and power. What's the difference?
It is common to separate sensitive electronics ground from other grounds in electrically noisy environments.

For the SV gauge, Signal ground is for the electronics. Power ground is for illumination, carries higher current and has more electrical noise.

But in this specific case, it does not matter, both go to B/W, main motorcycle ground.
 

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btw, those harness wires are in bad shape. Scotch Locks are terrible connectors and should never be used in any environment with moisture and vibration. Motorcycles are the worst possible place for them.
53878


The best way to join wires on your SV is with solder and heatshrink tubing. Soldering is easy to learn, the tools are cheap. There are many good YouTube videos that can show you how. It is a good skill to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gotcha on the B/W wires.

I've never had an issue with the connectors personally, but know what you're talking about and can see why.

As for the gauges I think I just bought faulty gauges. Direct hooked up the harness that plugs into the gauges to the battery just to see if I could get it to light up and nothing. Gonna get another one and hope that was the issue.
 

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... As for the gauges I think I just bought faulty gauges.
That could be. Not all sellers are honest or even know what they are selling sometimes.

There are a few test you can do to check the lights, like connect 12v to Gray, ground to B/W (see the diagram in post#6) that should at least make the backlights come on.

Similarly, follow the wires to any of the idiot light, should be able to make those light too.

But if the tach and speed do not work, not much you can do without digging into the electronics.

Good luck. You will get it working. SV sport gauges are still easy to find and not too expensive.
 

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Before shrinking heat shrink on a soldered joint on Motorcycles/Cars I paint the soldered joint with 3 coats of Clear Nail Varnish and let it dry. You can get it cheap at Walmart/ASDA(UK). It's a superb electrically non-conductive lacquer and an added defence against shorting and corrosion of the joint/s.

HTH :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok so i have speed, turn signals, highbeams, and rpm all working. The neutral, illumination are for sure not working and i cant test the low fuel,oil or water temp( or is there a way) Any thoughts on why illumination and neutral dont work?
 

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... Any thoughts on why illumination and neutral dont work?
Refer to the gauge diagram in post#6:
  • For illumination, try measure voltage on the Gray wire. Should see 12v
  • For Neutral, measure voltage on Bl/B with the bike in N, should see close to 0V.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Refer to the gauge diagram in post#6:
  • For illumination, try measure voltage on the Gray wire. Should see 12v
  • For Neutral, measure voltage on Bl/B with the bike in N, should see close to 0V.
I will give that a shot with a volt meter later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I read 11.8v off the grey (illumination) and i read the same off the blue and black(neutral). I have a black with blue stripe that reads alllll most 0v but connecting neutral to that also dosnt work. Bought second set of the gauges known working from a mod here so should be fine. Just dont get it.
 

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Illumination and Neutral lights on the SV650 are basic, there are no electronics involved.

Try double-check the wires and voltages.

Make sure the connectors are fully seated. Inspect for corrosion.

If still no lights then it is possible the bulb(s) are bad. Suzuki sells the bulbs individually, about $3 each.

If you do suspect the bulbs, open the back of the gauge, remove them, and test individually before replacing. For the LEDs you will need to apply power and Gnd, you can not use an ohm meter to test. They are polarized so if no light then try reverse the leads.

If the bulbs are good then check continuity from the gauge connector to the bulb socket.

With a little patience and being methodical, I guarantee you can fix this.

54016
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok checking through I found the illumination bulbs are burnt out(good call checking bulbs). The 5 idiot lights are fine tho. I still can not get neutral to light up. Each of the two black and blue wires are about 0v when the bike is off and when the bike is on, they are both at 11.8v. In the above schem you posted you have the o/g and the bl/b for the light but isnt o/g ignition? Eiter way I do have o/g wired to o/g from the harnesses. Hope this helps diagnose a little further, that light at the end of the tunnel is looking brighter at this point.
 

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... Ok checking through I found the illumination bulbs are burnt out
Were the illumination bulbs tested by applying 12v and ground directly to the bulb contacts, bulbs removed? And voltage polarity tried both ways? Is so, then good, you found the problem. But just be sure the test method is correct. Unlike incandescent bulbs, LED bulbs can not be tested with a simple resistance check, and when testing by applying 12v, the voltage polarity must be correct. It is a little odd to have 3 failures at the same time, that is the only reason I ask.


... Each of the two black and blue wires are about 0v when the bike is off and when the bike is on, they are both at 11.8v.
Blue/Black should be 0v with the key On and transmission in Neutral, not 11.8v. If Bl/B is 11.8 with the key On and bike in Neutral, then there is a problem with the neutral switch.


... In the above schem you posted you have the o/g and the bl/b for the light but isnt o/g ignition?
Yes, O/G is ignition power, it is also power for the Neutral light.


Can you make the Neutral light turn on by applying 12v directly to O/G and ground to Bl/B?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Were the illumination bulbs tested by applying 12v and ground directly to the bulb contacts, bulbs removed? And voltage polarity tried both ways? Is so, then good, you found the problem. But just be sure the test method is correct. Unlike incandescent bulbs, LED bulbs can not be tested with a simple resistance check, and when testing by applying 12v, the voltage polarity must be correct. It is a little odd to have 3 failures at the same time, that is the only reason I ask.


Blue/Black should be 0v with the key On and transmission in Neutral, not 11.8v. If Bl/B is 11.8 with the key On and bike in Neutral, then there is a problem with the neutral switch.


Can you make the Neutral light turn on by applying 12v directly to O/G and ground to Bl/B?

Yea the bulbs themselves are burnt to a crisp. Reminded me to change the one light bulb in my house after seeing em too lol. Yea not sure why just those 3 were burnt out either.

As for the neutral light. Yup I can get it to light up if grounding the BL/B wire and tuning on the bike so the O/G wire has power. Means the part you mentioned about the problem with the neutral switch is prolly the cause but no clue where to start there.

Your patience and guidance is must appreciated!
 
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