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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Any recommendations on replacement brake line setups?

I see a mix of people running 2 lines from the MC down to each caliper, but also the option of putting the double banjo on one of the calipers instead to mirror the splitter setup.

My double banjo just arrived so now I need to decide on which way to go and order the hoses.

As measured it seems a 800mm for the right side and then a 600mm crossover would be about right, or dual 800's

With the dual 800's I could tie the speed sensor wire to the left hose instead and take up the slack inside the headlight bucket I assume? Would make a cleaner looking fender for sure and maybe easier to bleed?

Any recommendations from those who have done either?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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This outlines it well.

#3 is basically OEM in this case with the splitter, so I'm looking at #1 or #2

#2 seems like it'd be easier to bleed and you'd have equal pressure in each where in #1 it seems like one caliper would get more of the load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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How do you get the 2 lines from you master cylinder? Have you got any pictures? I was looking to do braided lines but was just going to go the OEM route, #2 definitely looks the better option though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How do you get the 2 lines from you master cylinder? Have you got any pictures? I was looking to do braided lines but was just going to go the OEM route, #2 definitely looks the better option though.
That's where the double banjo bolt I mentioned comes into play.

Something like: Spiegler Stainless Steel Double Banjo Bolt - RevZilla

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Just make sure you order the correct thread pitch if putting it on the MC, Gen 1 is 1.0 thread pitch at the MC vs 1.25 on later versions AFAIK but all are 1.25 if using the double banjo at the caliper. Lots of info on SVRider about it.
 

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#5 is my jam. Very simple. Even if we ignore hydraulic action’s even distribution, this works just as well as two lines at the MC. The problem with #2 is risk of clearance problems, which I had. Plus, you have an additional point of failure and a really long, non-OEM banjo bolt
 

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I've used all of those variations, #1 is the most challenging to bleed, #2 the easiest, and have #3 on the SV. Different versions seem to have been popular over the years, seems we often think an alternative that's not used on our bike is the one to go with. Any of them work and each seems like an improvement when it replaces another but is that a benefit of changing fluid and likely caliper cleaning at the time too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
#5 is my jam. Very simple. Even if we ignore hydraulic action’s even distribution, this works just as well as two lines at the MC. The problem with #2 is risk of clearance problems, which I had. Plus, you have an additional point of failure and a really long, non-OEM banjo bolt
#5 is definitely the cleanest looking IMO, as you only see one line from the MC, and there's no fender crossover. And on an S model that T will be buried under a fender too!
 

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I did #2 on my two SVs and on my Vstrom — no issues whatsoever.
I just ordered the parts to build #5 on the GSX-R.
 

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So of I was just to run the lines the same as OEM it will be just as good as either of the other set-ups? I'm honestly just curious as to which works best. I'm sure Suzuki put a bit of r and d into it be fore the put the bike out
Yes, they're all going to work just as well. It comes down to which setup you are capable of bleeding most effectively. Suzuki did have a reason for doing it the way they did it, but it had much more to do with price-point and efficiency of manufacturing than it did anything else.
 
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