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Broke a bolt in the motor @ NHMS so i need to tear the whole thing apart so we can get it out. I had already gotten one cylinder off nd the clutch cover/basket when i decided to take pics.





First remove the 3 6mm Alan Bolts from the valve cover and remove the valve cover


Next remove the cam-chain cover. There are 3 5mm Alan bolts holding it on


Remove the two 5mm alan bolts that hold the Cam Chain Tensioner


The chain should now be loose


Now remove the 6 10mm bolts from each cam shaft block, and remove each cam


I try to keep all the parts together as i remove them


You should now be looking @ this. To remove the head you need to remove the four 12mm head bolts, two 10mm head-cylinder bolts, and one 5mm alan head-cylinder bolt(exterior)


Try not to flip it as the valve spring covers will come off


You will now have the piston exposed


Remove the oil cooler (if you havent done so already)


Remove the two 10mm nuts


I then rebuild the cylinder to make sure all parts stay where they are supposed to. If you do this i recommend putting the loose cam chain guide in its proper holder (you will see it when you move it). I also forgot to take pics of where the water hoses go into the cylinder. that is a 5mm alan bolt as well.


Next remove all the 8mm bolts holding the stator cover on. You will have to wiggle the cover off and use some force as there is a giant magnet behind it. Watch out for the starter idler shaft when you remove the cover.

 

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Next i removed the starter, it has 2 8mm bolts holding it in. this is a tight wiggle out



Next i took a 17mm socket and a IMPACT gun to the stator retaining bolt.


This is where im stuck because i forgot the stator needs to be forced off with a M20x1.5 Bolt. I got a call into fastenal, i could order one from MotionPro but ill see.

Being i couldnt find anyone locally that had the tool i needed to buy, I brought it down to the local suzuki Dealer (http://www.ridenow.com) There were able to pop the flywheel off in no time flat



Next i removed the pistons from the connect rod. On the side of the piston where wrist pin is a circlip. Pop that out and the wrist pin will slide out.



Next i removed the main Countershaft-Sprocket. this is a 14mm LEFT HAND thread bolt. I didnt grab a pre-shot but if you follow your cam-chain im sure you can find it.

Also i ziptied the parts in the order they came off and plastic bagged them


Next was the oil pump gear, its that yellow plastic gear. you will need circlip pliers to remove it. Remove the circlip and the gear pops off, behind it is a pin going through the shaft of the oil pump, slide that out and remove the washer. Next take out the 3 screws to the oil pump. i recommend using a socket driver. I believe Philips head #3


Next remove the oil pipe to the left of the oil gear


Next remove the output shaft gasket cover i believe its 3 10mm bolts


then remove the gear sensor. make sure you grab the little popup things, and the springs behind them and bag them


the manual says you need to remove this plate. i dont think you do, but i did anyways


Next remove all the 8mm bolts from the case exterior. then remove the 4 5mm alan head bolts on that side. the 8mm bolts are all the same size. as well as the 4 alan bolts for THAT side. when you flip it over to do the other size. the 4 5mm alan bolts are all the same size, but longer. flip the case so the left side is down. then rock the case cover. it will pop off to look like this


the crank will lift right out of place. so will the transmission arms rods. for each rod i ziptied it and the arm(s) together. the shift drum will come out next. to get the gears out you need to take out the Output shaft first, which may require the use of a hammer.


And thats that. i need to get a bolt drilled out, and heli-coiled. i will post the build next as i do it.
 

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:notworthy: Ok, I'm impressed indeed. Now I know who to ask about tearing down an engine, if I were to every want to tackle that task.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
very nice pics and write up, so where is the bolt thats broke?
thank you. it was the shift detent bolt. the ez-out also broke in there as well so we need to throw it on a bridgeport with a carbide bit to get it out.
 

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i hate to tell you, but the shift detent comes out just by taking off the front sprocket cover. (doh!)

just kidding. seriously, that was a very informative write up and good pics. thanks, i cant wait to see the assembly side.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i hate to tell you, but the shift detent comes out just by taking off the front sprocket cover. (doh!)

just kidding. seriously, that was a very informative write up and good pics. thanks, i cant wait to see the assembly side.
the shift detent is actually underneath the clutch by the shift star. its the arm that is held by a spring.

thanks for the compliments :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
PFT. I'm not impressed.

Anyone can tear down an engine.

Trick is to put it back together. :p


Nice pics though. :-D
this will be the 2nd motor that i will be building in a HOTEL room. :fiddy: the last one was for a ex500.
 

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daviid
Good man..i am very impressed..i am i think about to do the same thing,it certainly gave me some tips and i do not feel as intimidated..I will be watching closely for the rebuild..
all the best SFSV
 

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daviid
Good man..i am very impressed..i am i think about to do the same thing,it certainly gave me some tips and i do not feel as intimidated..I will be watching closely for the rebuild..
all the best SFSV
as long as you stay organized, its very easy. rebuild will take slightly longer. im currently researching engine shops to do some machine work.

This is great! Thanks for posting David.

:thumbsup:
your welcome:)
 

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the shift detent is actually underneath the clutch by the shift star. its the arm that is held by a spring.

thanks for the compliments :)

Nice write up man, I am going to make this a sticky. The photos are better than the Suzuki shop manual. For the bolt, I am surprised with the clutch basket off the motor, that you could not get some magnetic bolt pickers through the oiling holes down into the pan (where I assumed they went).

Don't ask me how I know ... and a dental mirror is a big help. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nice write up man, I am going to make this a sticky. The photos are better than the Suzuki shop manual. For the bolt, I am surprised with the clutch basket off the motor, that you could not get some magnetic bolt pickers through the oiling holes down into the pan (where I assumed they went).

Don't ask me how I know ... and a dental mirror is a big help. ;D
:rock:

oh i had a ez out drop in i used a flexi magnet to get that out. the shaft of the bolt is broke in the hole with a broken ez-out on top.
 
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