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How much Busch Lite does it take to build an SV motor with Nascar parts on the end gate of a pickup?;)

Seriously though, I would love to be involved in a project like that. Keep up the posts, with details. Build points, dyno results, race results, all of it.

Oh, and tell your next of kin I have dibs on the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How much Busch Lite does it take to build an SV motor with Nascar parts on the end gate of a pickup?;)

Seriously though, I would love to be involved in a project like that. Keep up the posts, with details. Build points, dyno results, race results, all of it.

Oh, and tell your next of kin I have dibs on the motor.
eww pis s in a can. this will probably be rebuilt in the garage now or built in my office, not sure yet. i just built most of my engine stand last night.

more posts will come. still need to pick up some stuff
 

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looks like fun! not much too them huh? i've torn apart and reassembled aircooled VW motors A LOT. can't wait to see some progress.
 

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Move the oil pickup so you can ride 5 mile wheelies!!

Just kidding.

Shiney-metal engine parts are like artwork. How much power you aiming for?
 

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Wow....Daviid....I didn't realize that you were going that far into her. Great pictures though. Are you planning to dyno her when she's finally back in? I'd be interested to know what you gained with all of the work.

I never figured out what my issue was, but with all of the seals and gaskets replaced, and the rebuild to my water pump, she's done about 400+ miles without any further issues!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Take pics of your stand too -- Im curious. :)
i may put another brace on it, but its stable as it sits. i would redo the front mount if i had to do it again (wasnt paying attention to how the motor was sitting when i measured. and measure the 2 rear mounting holes)



 

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Wow......that's what I'm saying!

I see you have expensive a$$ Carrillos, Wiseco pistons, billet crank(not cheap either), a ported head, adjustable cam sprockets, and I'm guessing a surface grind/hone on the cylinders. Am I missing anything else?

By the way, nice work thus far! I'll be watching this thread!

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Note: All bearing clearances were checked by the machine shop that performed the machine work on my engine
First start off by splitting the cases. First I installed both of the transmission gears. Followed by the shift drum. After install the shift drum, I placed the shift arms in the correct spot and lined them upto the shift drum. When in the right spot, I slid the shift arm rod into place and “locking” the arms into place. I also put assembly lube on the ends of each gear assembly and shift drum

Next slide in the crank and make sure that the rods go through the correct cylinder bores

Next take SuzukiBond (or its equivalent, I could only get Yamabond) and put a thin layer around one of the case halves. Make sure not to block any oil holes. Wait about 1 minute and slide the cases together.


Use the 4 long 5mm allen bolts on the stator side and torque them to 26Nm

Flip over to the other side and use the 3 medium length 5mm allen bolts and torque them to 26Nm. The remaining 8mm hex bolts get torque to 11Nm.
Next I put the engine on the engine stand I built

Here I replaced the output shaft seal and placed the spacer back on

Here is the Gear shift indicator in place



Now go to the stator side of the motor and install the timing chain

Next install the cam chain tensioner. It will be Bolt, CCT, Washer, Motor. And torque to 10Nm.


Now install the starter drive gear

Then install the Stator/Flywheel. Make sure the crankshaft is dry and the key is in place. Torque to 120Nm

Now flip to the other side and install the cam chain drive sprocket. Make sure the 2 dots are aligned. And install the cam chain and tensioner as well.



Next install the main drive gear. This bolt is a left hand thread and needs to be torque to 70Nm

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Next install the shift star and detent. The detent is torque to 10Nm and the star is 13Nm

Next install the gear shaft arm. Make sure the spring sits over the bronze fitting



Next install the oil pump. It is 3 screws. Make sure the pin is placed on the drive shaft. Slide the gear on top and replace the circlip.


Next install the starter gear and shaft

Next install the starter.

You can now put a new gasket on the stator cover and install it

Next install the piston rings onto the pistons. First place the Oil Ring Expander into the bottom groove. Make sure the ends do not overlap and are butted. The end of the ring should be 90* off of the wrist pin. The Oil Rail Rings (Very thin rings) will then fit on the top and bottom of the Oil Ring Expander ring. Make sure the gaps are 90* away from the expander gap and away from each other. Wiseco sent a bronze colored ring and a black colored ring each with a number on them. The black ring is your 2nd Ring. Install this with the numbers facing up. The same goes with the Bronze ring. Make these gaps along the wrist pin and each one of the 2 main rings facing away from each other (ie Top ring facing east and 2nd ring facing west).

Next install 1 circlip into the piston, I then used some assembly lube and coated the journals of the piston and inside the connecting rod. Install the piston so that the arrow is facing the exhaust (right in front of the small valve reliefs)
 

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Would be great to have this made into a POST-IT! Great pictures and details!

You didn't by chance rebuild your waterpump did you? I ask only because the manual didn't really specify the positioning of the oil seal??? I'd love to see how far yours is set in below the mechanical seal.
 

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looks good, whats with the big globs of RTV on the stator cover bolt hole plug and the timing plug?
 
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