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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The fuel in my 650 went flat from sitting to long.
Now has fresh fuel, drained carbs and bike is running, but no giddyup.
Suspect the mid or high range jet is plugged.
Can the jets be removed with the carbs in place or do I have to remove the carbs first.
Bike is firing on both cylinders as both pipes get hot.
Thank you for any help. I promise not to do it again.
Crusty Snippets.
 

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The fuel in my 650 went flat from sitting to long.
Now has fresh fuel, drained carbs and bike is running, but no giddyup.
Suspect the mid or high range jet is plugged.
Can the jets be removed with the carbs in place or do I have to remove the carbs first.
Bike is firing on both cylinders as both pipes get hot.
Thank you for any help. I promise not to do it again.
Crusty Snippets.
Have to pull the carbs. Even if the jets could be gotten out you have to clean out the internal passages too.
 

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If you have an aversion to removing the carbs completely, you can loosen the carbs from the boots and rotate 90deg to get to the float bowl screws to remove the bowls. You would want to drain the bowls first. It's possible, just a bit awkward and tight.
 

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I agree with you Rich, but the OP wanted to know an alternative to pulling the carbs. You don't need to separate the carbs, there is enough slack to loosen the carbs, pull them off the boots as a unit and rotate. I have done this once but not to get to the jets. Personally, if you are afraid to deal with disconnecting the throttle cables to work on the carbs, you shouldn't be working on your bike. Keeping the enricher plungers connected is also a pain when rotating the carbs. Once you remove the carbs for the first time and successfully re-install all the cables and hoses to working order, you won't be disinclined to do it again. It's not that difficult.
 

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RMAN, have you actually tried to do that?? It'd be way more effort than just taking the carbs off.
I do it all the time, just pop out of boots and flip them. Put rag under to soak fuel coming out and to cover intake ports so nothing goes in. I just undo choke cable at bar and pull idle cable from bracket.
 

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So you unbolt them from the rack? Do you re-synch every time?
No, read Tovar's post. I just loosen the boots and flip them on their side.

Biggest downfall to this is it's hard to use a hand impact on them if any of the screws are stubborn.
I agree with you Rich, but the OP wanted to know an alternative to pulling the carbs. You don't need to separate the carbs, there is enough slack to loosen the carbs, pull them off the boots as a unit and rotate. I have done this once but not to get to the jets. Personally, if you are afraid to deal with disconnecting the throttle cables to work on the carbs, you shouldn't be working on your bike. Keeping the enricher plungers connected is also a pain when rotating the carbs. Once you remove the carbs for the first time and successfully re-install all the cables and hoses to working order, you won't be disinclined to do it again. It's not that difficult.
I am not afraid of doing it - I said I was lazy :eek:ccasion14:
 

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I read the initial post as doing that with individual carbs rather than removing the pair and rotating the whole assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you for the info men.
I will remove both carbs as a unit if possible.
Have to admit the old British junk was easier to tear apart.
The forward sparkplug is not the easiest thing to remove.
And changing jets at the track would be more than a five minute job.
Unkle Crusty
 

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No, read Tovar's post. I just loosen the boots and flip them on their side.

Biggest downfall to this is it's hard to use a hand impact on them if any of the screws are stubborn.

I am not afraid of doing it - I said I was lazy :eek:ccasion14:
I wasn't referring to you. Carbs on parallel twins are a breeze to deal with.
 

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I agree with you Rich, but the OP wanted to know an alternative to pulling the carbs. You don't need to separate the carbs, there is enough slack to loosen the carbs, pull them off the boots as a unit and rotate. I have done this once but not to get to the jets. Personally, if you are afraid to deal with disconnecting the throttle cables to work on the carbs, you shouldn't be working on your bike. Keeping the enricher plungers connected is also a pain when rotating the carbs. Once you remove the carbs for the first time and successfully re-install all the cables and hoses to working order, you won't be disinclined to do it again. It's not that difficult.
Gotcha. :) I though you meant rotating the individual carbs with them still in the (loosened) carb boots, which is what we do on dirt bikes all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: SV650 carburetor update

Removed the tank and all the hoses.
Both carbs came off together and I was able to remove both float bowls.
Blasted everything with air and reinstalled.
Also drained the fuel tank, sloshed some fresh gas around and drained again.
Cleaned inside the fuel pump as well.
Suzu is now running again.
Had crappy brown streaks in the flat gas.
Thank you all for the help.
Bike will be sold next week, but I still have the XS11 Yamaha and the SV1000.
Unkle Crusty
 
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