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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a big tear into my bike this weekend on my 2006 SV1000, 19k mi
Changed oil & filter
Fork oil & springs
Tires
Chain & sprockets

Got her all buttoned up and it felt a bit odd going down the driveway without the engine running. Fired it up, and then died when I put it in gear (yes the kickstand was up).

Further inspection showed that when I pulled the clutch in (disengaged it), the wheel was still very difficult to turn.

I bled the clutch system with at least 12 oz or more of brake fluid. Still same problem.

Even more odd, when I have it up on my center stand, and watching the wheel spin in gear and I pull the clutch in (disengage) engine speed goes DOWN indicating More Load when I try to disengage the clutch?!?!? I also hear a faint chain like noise whenever I try to disengage the clutch.

I'm plum out of ideas. I didn't even touch the clutch system and now it seems totally FUBAR'd
 

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Further inspection showed that when I pulled the clutch in (disengaged it), the wheel was still very difficult to turn.
This doesn't sound out of the ordinary, there's always going to be some drag when trying to spin the rear wheel while the clutch is disengaged.

Can you inspect the slave cylinder and confirm it's actuating properly?
Hopefully someone else with a 1k can chime in.
 

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Does it actually ride out on the street? Clutch disengage enough to put it in gear and stop in gear without the engine dying? If so...you've probably got it done OK.

The clutch plates will always have some drag on one another so a 'CLUNK' when dropping into first gear will happen. Bike should sit without pulling much with the clutch in. Don't worry about 'pulling clutch in (disengage) engine speed goes DOWN indicating More Load'....no, what you are seeing is the clutch safety switch being engaged which richens up the injector durations to make it more resistant to stalling. This is normal.

So long as you can ride the bike with the clutch as it is...you are fine.:) The new chain will be a little stiff at first and take some break-in....and you DO have it adjusted correctly, yes? If so, give it some miles and it'll probably be fine.

Did you change the gearing with your sprocket change? This can really change the 'feel' of the bike too. Double check all your adjustments and ride man!:) Enjoy the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Doesn't ride out on the street. Had the front brake and clutch pulled in, (kick stand up), put it in gear. Stall.

Thanks for the info about the clutch switch and fueling, makes me feel a little better that something isn't totally broken on the inside...

At this point I think I'm just going to try and ride it around the neighborhood a little bit to see if the oil is just really that well drained out of the clutch after mere 5 days sitting, even if it means I stall it in first gear when coming to a stop, just to prove that one out.

Chain I adjusted to 0.8" (on the low side of the spec). Is that the wrong way to break in the chain? I assumed it would stretch more than normal during the first few miles... Should I set it back to the nominal 1.0"? Doubt that is the reason for the clutch acting up though.
 

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I set chains up at the upper limit of slack. On the SV1K, that means it will lightly tap the swingarm when you push up on the bottom run. If you have it tighter than that it might be causing a problem.

I ride my bike only on weekends so it sits unmoved during the week and the clutch doesn't complain. If you have recently changed oils there might be some stickiness going on with different formulations making the plates not want to slip properly. This should go away with use, though.

What is your idle speed? Most run best 1250-1350 and no lower or they will stall now and then. If it feels like the clutch isn't disengaging properly it might not be. Once you've eliminated the slave cyl side of things, you might need to go into the clutch and see what is what. A bit of a pain with draining the coolant and all, but some clutches have broken bits or warped plates and such which will make them drag when they shouldn't. If all else fails......might be what you need to do. Good luck!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fixed it.

I think I had two problems together that made it seem like it was something much worse. My idle speed is set at the lower end of the spec, just high enough to keep the thumping constant (without sounding like it is catching itself every now and then). This, combined with the clutch plates being (IMO, extremely dry and sticky), caused the bike to stall when I first tried to ride it after my repairs with the front brake engaged. The clutch was still very sticky, but not bad enough to stop you from moving the bike by foot (although with a lot of effort). After seeing the clutch pack moving well through the oil fill hole, I decided to give her another try. I ran it through 3rd and came to a stop and all seemed normal again, despite the bike sputtering in first gear until I gave it some throttle. Like I said, the clutch seemed very very sticky. Same oil as before, I suppose it just sat too long with the clutch not being in a oil bath.
 
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