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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished a track weekend at ORP here in Oregon, a track with a lot of hard downhill braking zones. I've been working on braking later and I think I'm getting close to maximum on that (feel the rear getting squirelly on downshifts). I'm running the stock naked MC and stock calipers with EBC sintered pads and after two days of hard braking my right hand is sore to the point that I worry about injury. My buddy's Triumph 675 with its 6-pot calipers takes way less lever pressure for the same decel and I know that the SV's stock 4-pots will likely never equal that.

Overall, I was satisfied with how quickly I could stop the bike from a control perspective. The question is, what options do I have to reduce lever pressure while still remaining supersport-legal should I decide to race this bike? I've searched around, didn't find anything specific.
 

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you would need to read the rulebook for the race org you are running with to determine that - wera for instance does not allow a master change in supersport, CCS does - no idea what the local org in Oregon has for a rule set personally, but that's where you oculd find it

if it does allow a MC change - switch out for a Magura/Accosato/Brembo MB in eithe 19x18 or 19x20 and be careful the first few times you go out hehe

the calipers on the SV are fully capable of lofting the rear end i nthe air under braking, what you are talkign about is less effort for the same brake power applied, usual fix is the change the MC for that (don't know of any org that lets you change the calipers and stay ss legal)
 

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Race pads, good fluid, braided lines. Rear end moving under breaking is a suspension problem.
This.

Also, if its happening during downshifts as you describe, then that is something that will happen if you drop some gears and dump that clutch out w/o a slipper.
 

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If you already have a nice race pad, and want less effort for same braking, your options are only new MC. As noted check your race rules to see if it's legal (it usually isn't).
Race pads, good fluid, braided lines. Rear end moving under breaking is a suspension problem.
Or fast clutch work. Last downshift needs to be smoooooooth.
 

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If you already have a nice race pad, and want less effort for same braking, your options are only new MC. As noted check your race rules to see if it's legal (it usually isn't).

Or fast clutch work. Last downshift needs to be smoooooooth.
Sometimes the production model Brembos are ok (ie came on other production bikes)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The new MC is what I thought, I'll have to check with OMRRA. I'm running braided lines too, btw. The rear tire moving around on decel isn't a problem per se, just mentioning it as a sign that I'm reaching a max braking threshold and lofting the rear a bit. I can downshift smoothly, control is not a problem, just lever effort over the course of a track day.

...oh bollocks:

Brakes: Race-type brake linings for disc or drum brakes may be used. All other brake system
components must remain stock except hydraulic lines (see below).

Brake and Clutch Lines: Any type may be used including braided lines.
 

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I actually don't think they work that badly...
 

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The HH's aren't that bad! I have a set of Vesrah RJL's to try, but the HH's on my bike still have life left so no reason to switch yet (good problem to have ;) ).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not sure if they're HH or not, they have the copper backing plate. I experience very quick warm up time and very little if any fade during a hard session while getting max braking, so I'm not sure I'm ready to blame the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So here's a related question -- I'm a two-fingered braker due to years of the street habit of covering the front brake lever at all times. I've tried 4-finger braking but stopped because it was a difficult habit to learn while still trying to put together some fast laps. Should I just focus on that technique for the time being?
 

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Brake however you want. I use two fingers, some use four or three or one. Do whatever is comfortable for you.

The HH's aren't that bad! I have a set of Vesrah RJL's to try, but the HH's on my bike still have life left so no reason to switch yet (good problem to have ;) ).
Thats the problem, they lose performance well before they run out of life.
 

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I use my first 2 fingers as well. I know a guy who uses his ring and pinky fingers. Do what floats your boat!

Thats the problem, they lose performance well before they run out of life.
I haven't been outbraked yet this year, once that happens I might come off the track and swap it over!
 

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I run Vesrah RJL pads , stock MC and 600 fluid I brake with middle finger only and have never had any fatgue . The stock MC is more than enough on the SV I outbrake the bigger bikes everytime and can do a 1 fingered stoppy . I think your pads may be culprit getting hot requiring more force on the MC to get same effect . If you change to vesrahs make sure to clean your rotors good and change to the good fluid as it will also breakdown with heat !
 

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I run Vesrah RJL pads , stock MC and 600 fluid I brake with middle finger only and have never had any fatgue . The stock MC is more than enough on the SV I outbrake the bigger bikes everytime and can do a 1 fingered stoppy . I think your pads may be culprit getting hot requiring more force on the MC to get same effect . If you change to vesrahs make sure to clean your rotors good and change to the good fluid as it will also breakdown with heat !
Yes, my teammate uses the stock MC, brakes with one finger, and is a speedy mofo who brakes like an animal on the tight and technical NHMS. I agree there's something else going on.
 

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All of the above are good starting points. Good pads, good fluid (try Motul RBF600, more expensive, but worth its weight in gold), good SS lines, and a decent MC.

When I purchased my SV from another racer, it had a stock radial master from an 08 GSX-R1000, which worked very well.

My current setup, which is SS legal in CCS is:

Accossato 19x18 radial MC
Stock G1 SV calipers
Spiegler SS lines
Carbone Lorraine pads (available through Spiegler)
Motul RBF600 fluid

If you find the rear coming up on hard braking, try just tapping the rear as you load your front end. I'm not talking about pressing the pedal hard, but just tapping it enough to slightly slow the rotation of the rear wheel.

Also, try sliding back in the seat just prior to braking and squeezing the tank with your legs to prevent from sliding forward.
 

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Yes, my teammate uses the stock MC, brakes with one finger, and is a speedy mofo who brakes like an animal on the tight and technical NHMS. I agree there's something else going on.
^^ NO JOKE... but he also mentioned that he cant get that same result on his other bike, even with the same parts/pads... he told me he didn't even want to crack the system open because he was afraid it would lose its 1 finger mojo! his SV is the ONLY sv I've even seen where the stock master/lever is only a few MM to a ROCK HARD lever.. mine was always squishy no matter how much I bled it..

I raced with the stock MC for a year and a half and it worked fine, not great but it worked. when I switched the the Brembo I immediately realized what brake "feel" was, and the confidence that came with that helped me drop time..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I suppose it varies from club to club, but in general if one were to podium in a SS race with an illegal MC, what generally happens? Slight topic change, just wondering...
 

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You get DQ'd

The EBC Extreme Pro HH pads are worth using, wasn't too happy with the original HH ones - glazed a set in 2 weekends, have not had that problem with the EP-HH pads, one set is going into season 2....still good
 
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